Hull thickness

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1960 yellowboat
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Hull thickness

Post by 1960 yellowboat » 03 Aug 2019, 15:10

What is considered to be a good material thickness on an aluminum semi vee?
My Richline Challenger is .067 gauge.

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DaleH
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by DaleH » 03 Aug 2019, 15:40

Depends on lenth ,,,
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548

turbotodd
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by turbotodd » 03 Aug 2019, 16:12

.080 is considered "decent" on a lot of the 15' duck boats, with .100 or .125 preferred, but they are going to be obviously heavier-and that means slower speed. Mine is .100 (1548).

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RaisedByWolves
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by RaisedByWolves » 04 Aug 2019, 13:12

DaleH wrote:
03 Aug 2019, 15:40
Depends on lenth ,,,
And rib spacing/over all construction.
Sailbad the Sinner

coosa
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by coosa » 08 Aug 2019, 16:34

It's interesting how much this has changed over the years. I bought an aluminum boat in 1977 that was .064, and that wasn't unusual. The next one I bought a few years later was .072 and I remember the salesman talked about the hull thickness as a great selling point. I have been researching boats lately and planning to buy one soon, and it seems like most of the bass type boats are .100.

I guess thicker is better, but I never had a problem with the hulls on any of my aluminums except for a couple of really small ones that I abused on creek rocks.

BTW, I kept running across this site when researching boats, so I decided to join. Thanks for all the great info here.

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LDUBS
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by LDUBS » 08 Aug 2019, 20:58

Gosh, I had no idea what the hull thickness is for my boat. I suspected it wasn't super thick because I don't think my boat is very heavy for an 18' windshield walkthrough. I looked up the spec's and it comes in at .080 on bottom and sides. Well, now that I know I"m not sure what I'll do with the info. Haha
Have Rod - Will Fish

surfman
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by surfman » 09 Aug 2019, 06:47

What are you going to do with it? If you are just going lake fishing then the .07 thickness is just fine, if you want a jet boat and plan on running rocky rivers then the thicker the better. Thicker usually means heavier.

turbotodd
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by turbotodd » 09 Aug 2019, 09:30

Thicker is always better. It's heavier, but if you're trailering the boat, that's not as much of a concern as it'd be if you was throwing the boat in the back of the truck like I used to do. That's when lightweight tin foil boats are nice to have--at least until you run into a barely submerged cypress tree stump or knee. The difference between a .100 jon and a .063 jon is evident as you're running across the lake running a tiller steer motor with any appreciable chop. With thin material you can watch the front of the boat flex. With the thicker stuff, not so much. Also most riveted boats are thinner material because it takes less material/money to build the boat. It's more flexible which over a long period of time and/or rough water operation will tend to loosen the rivets.

ppine
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by ppine » 09 Aug 2019, 10:16

Are you planning on any rock crushing?
Lake boats can be built lighter than river boats.

turbotodd
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by turbotodd » 11 Aug 2019, 00:06

Gets rough on the lake sometimes too. Hunting out of a boat is also a consideration for some (though I do not hunt-at least not from the boat).

Once you've been in a thick welded hull, you won't want to set foot in a tin-foil built jon again. Trust me. It's not quite as easy to rivet a thicker hull as it is on a thin one (like .063). But you don't have to, most of the thicker hulls are welded. They're welded because it's easier, safer, lasts longer, and MUCH stronger.

There is a price difference, yes. If it's in the budget, spring for the thicker hull. I understand if it's not affordable--I've been in that situation. Resale on a welded thicker material hull is a LOT higher than a riveted tinfoil hull.

Either will float, or they should anyway. After a few years the difference becomes obvious. You'd notice the difference right away if you nave never had a welded boat which was my experience.

MacCTD
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by MacCTD » 13 Aug 2019, 19:03

.1875 or .250, preferably 5086 as well.

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LDUBS
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by LDUBS » 13 Aug 2019, 22:41

MacCTD wrote:
13 Aug 2019, 19:03
.1875 or .250, preferably 5086 as well.
1/4" is getting pretty thick & heavy. I could see it for a work boat. Way beyond what I need in the lakes I frequent.
Have Rod - Will Fish

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LDUBS
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by LDUBS » 13 Aug 2019, 22:51

turbotodd wrote:
11 Aug 2019, 00:06
Gets rough on the lake sometimes too.
The main body of one of the lakes I go to is about 10 miles long. Wind coming down the length of the lake can make for some pretty rough conditions. I see large glass bass boats zipping across the tops of some pretty decent sized whitecaps. When waves build up, I slow way way down to keep the fillings in my teeth. Haha.
Have Rod - Will Fish

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BigTerp
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by BigTerp » 14 Aug 2019, 08:03

LDUBS wrote:
13 Aug 2019, 22:41
MacCTD wrote:
13 Aug 2019, 19:03
.1875 or .250, preferably 5086 as well.
1/4" is getting pretty thick & heavy. I could see it for a work boat. Way beyond what I need in the lakes I frequent.
Yeah, .250 is way overkill. Guys around here that build custom river jet boats use .190 at the most.
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=26774

MacCTD
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Re: Hull thickness

Post by MacCTD » 14 Aug 2019, 10:55

BigTerp wrote:
14 Aug 2019, 08:03
LDUBS wrote:
13 Aug 2019, 22:41
MacCTD wrote:
13 Aug 2019, 19:03
.1875 or .250, preferably 5086 as well.
1/4" is getting pretty thick & heavy. I could see it for a work boat. Way beyond what I need in the lakes I frequent.
Yeah, .250 is way overkill. Guys around here that build custom river jet boats use .190 at the most.
I have a 19' skiff with .250 bottom and .1875 sides, it is still a pretty light boat and goes well with a Honda 90, very tough, while it may be overkill for some applications given the choice I would take overkill every time.

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