Recent content by ducktrooper

Let us know when you test that 20 HP suzuki. What I like about them is the are about 20 lbs lighter than comparable Merc or Tohatsu....97 lbs. for the manual and a few more for electric version. That makes a big difference if you're constantly having to live cowling up to shallow drive setting...

I have one('98) and I like it a lot. Had a 25 HP Nissan 2 stroke and traded for a lighter motor. It's not as fast......about 4 mph less in top speed when I GPS'd it on my 1448.

Thanks guys for the input. I'm checking into tunnel hulls from Alweld and Southfork since they both make custom sizes. Might add weldbilt into the mix. I agree extra cupping and anticavitation plate will help if I run tunnel hull. Top speed is way less important than being able to cruise...

Thanks CountryDave for the all the insight. You're probably right about the length...the only thing I question is that the fiberglass river jons which are 20'x4' run fairly fast with only a 15 HP. Why would that be?

Thanks...I've pretty much settled on Alweld for the reasons you mentioned. Weldbilt might be a fallback. Now I'm just trying to decide if tunnel hull will help....what gauge thickness....and what size will float shallowest at lower speeds when I'm navigating thru a skinny section of water.

Little Red River mostly......Norfolk and White occasionally. All the trout jon boats over there are mostly 42-48" in width......but, they're 20' long and that's too long for duckhunting(for me).

I've done a lot of searches but need suggestions from those with experience for my custom jon. Purpose of boat..shallow water flyfishing on skinny tailwaters and occasional duckhunting in various areas. Size I want is 17-18 ft long..with 44-46 beam. Light weight, all welded hull is way I want...

that's the one I'm considering but it's 2 hours away and price does some kind of high considering hull is 15 years old....layout is nice though. the other thing I worry about is hull thickness....seller doesn't know what gauge it is. I don't plan on jumping stumps..mostly will use for fly...

Hey Lowe....thanks a bunch for that info. Aren't many of those guys with sponsons running mud motors thru super skinny water? I don't want to lose reverse capability but might consider adding if not too expensive to have someone build and weld on. Trim tabs would be used for getting on plane at...

Hi guys...I'm looking at used 1642 weldbilt for fishing and hunting. My preference would have been a 1648 but it's a great package deal etc. Will I notice much of a difference when standing, casting, walking up and back? The hull design is very open. Thanks.

Thanks Paul...I suppose I need a jackplate of sorts, either manual or hydraulic. I've read that you don't want any/much setback with the JP in order to keep the prop as close to the tunnel as possible...is this correct? I might consider adding trim tabs in lieu of sponsons on back.....any...

I have a Riverhawk....pretty much the same. Mine is 15'8" with 52" beam and open hull. Mine is rigged with 15 HP which really moves it nicely. Gheenoes are a tad higher in quality of materials, but the difference is really minimal. These are good for small rivers and great for any flat water.

I'm looking at a 1642 Weldbilt with 25 hp ss merc. The boat has a tunnel hull.Will that help me go shallower at various speeds as I do flyfish on some skinny rivers? Will I need a jack plate to get prop to perform most efficiently? Thanks.

Several very reputable custom builders in LA...ie, Uncle J and Brother Batueax among others.

I may have come across a really good deal on a used G3 Jon boat. How do a search since G3 isn't a word? I've tried several combinations but keep coming up with nothing. Thanks