Recent content by jgdunham

You can also loosen the nut on the end of the tilt pivot bolt until you have things moving. It just squeezes down a spring to adjust the tilt friction. The release mentioned is right below the id tag on the transom mount. You can also do it manually down on the leg by lifting the latch off the...

There is a little retaining ring on the inside of the foot you can pry off and then back the screw all the way out. If you dont take the clip off First it will strip the groove off the end of the threaded part. Once out you can chase the threads in the transom mount and assess the old clamps...

Are the clamps stuck in or out? Evidence of any white al oxide in them? How do the exposed threads look?

You may want to make or buy a seal puller for the top seal. Cracking the ring that extends up from the block is very bad.

Regarding the solenoid box. I would be very tempted to pick up a box and the lower front cowl for a 57 or 58 johnson or evinrude 35. They are more common and you can use the plug connection instead of hard wiring. I think a box from 59 is ok, maybe even later is fine too but the lower cowl...

In 1956 they werent wired for a real kill switch. You can replace the armature plate with a newer one or drill the extra hole to add a second wire to the other set of points if you want one. Yours has only 1 wire to the vacuum switch to prevent over rev. To shut off that motor you are supposed...

Dont worry about the starter. It will be fine. Dont bother with a resistor for it either, it would need to be outrageously high wattage to handle the current. Bring your start solenoid to the auto parts store and tell them you want a 12v version. Same connections and same mounting...

Regarding the 6v vs 12v The 6v starters will take 12v just fine. The only way to kill it is excessive cranking which can happen at 6v anyway. The part that wont survive at 12v is the choke solenoid. You have 3 choices for that. Never choke it electrically, replace with a 12v solenoid from a 57...

I like to keep them on. That one time that you forget to check and it gets bumped into forward could be your last. If you are standing to give it a yank and it starts first pull it would take off and dump you over the transom.

The part that broke is the linkage for the recoil lockout. The system prevents pulling the cord when the throttle is set too high. For now, simply remove the rest of the system (the little rocker on the recoil starter) Replacing it is probably a good idea but you dont need to to get things running.

I have a 1959 Duratech Sealine 14' runabout that needs a new home. It is in good shape above the splash rails but the seats and seat backs are missing. Transom wood is shot/gone All hardware is present (I think) except for the stern light mast and one broken bow cleat. The steering cable and...

I am looking for a 19' alumacraft Cruiseabout. I would be interested in either the cabin or open versions.

This is what is left of the flywheel from a 1956 johnson 30 that a previous owner tried to remove with a 3 jaw puller. You can see how thin the metal is where the ratchet screws go. This flywheel may have already had fatigue cracks but there is no way to know. I removed this from the powerhead...

Hello again piomarine. It was suggested that you try a 3 jaw puller. While this May work on smaller flywheels, using a 3 jaw or other edge puller is likely to distort or outright ruin this flywheel. Especially if it already has any fatigue cracking around those holes. The flywheel is actually...