Recent content by sonicwonder2000

I have a 50hp Mercury 2-Stroke with a 6hp 4-stroke kicker.

Thanks YJ, your feedback helps me decide on layout #3; I think that might be the safest too. I'm sure it would be possible to move the center console over, but it's the middle seat that's the real problem - you gotta step over that to get to the front of the boat. Moving the center console...

Sketychy!?? Ehhhh ... what is this, gang up on the 19' Gregor day? :lol: Smaller boats have made it to Catalina, I guarantee. This is also not a skinny water hull design, it is a Pacific Power Dowry; it's pretty seaworthy. That being said, I would never venture out without a VHF radio...

Amen to that. I don't think my butt would ever leave the front deck offshore ... not without a towering guard rail all around. I am partial to layout 3 as well, because it will involve the least (no) structural modification. However, the center console being mounted on the center thwart is a...

I want about 20cubic feet (approx 1200lbs) floatation, because I am going to be venturing offshore. I will most likely use closed-cell extruded polystyrene, elevated an inch or so off the bilge to prevent waterlogging and allow water drainage. I'm not opposed to pouring flotation foam, but it...

One more layout - full deck with rear side storage. Also - I've included some side views with a 5'11" guy to see the relative height with different height decking. My gut feels like the seat-top decking may be too unstable (too bad!) - but it would give me oodles of storage and floatation.

Hi Guys, I've been spending hours on this forum and have actually gone through all 290 some pages of this board! I've gotten a lot of great ideas, but still have some questions about decking my boat. She is a ~19' Gregor semi-v that is going to be used mainly in the ocean for fishing. I'd...

@Minuteman: -The stuff I'm using is the Klean-Strip phosphoric etch an prep -My trailer is galvanized and it foamed WAY up when the acid touched it. Now I have a REALLY clean trailer ;-) -My carpeted bunks have been covered with a pvc glide strip, so there should not be direct acid contact...

If the live terminal is disconnected, there will be no current flow and hence no electrolytic corrosion. Sorry for the late response, work has had me more than a little busy :/ I finally finished 1/2 the boat etch this weekend - that acid etch is nasty stuff. My boat sides are pretty much...

Will do! Got some phosphoric acid etch and supplies at the Home Creapo today ... going to have a hand at removing the milscale tomorrow... BTW, galvanic corrosion can occur whenever there is a potential (voltage) difference between the hull and ground, and there is an electrolyte (conductor)...

The etching is too get rid of mil scale on the hull ... there have been some in depth discussions on the "other" tin boat site covering it. Kmorland over there is a boat builder who claims that removing mil scale with an acid etch is one of the most important things to do in preventing...

Ok, so perhaps I'm not as good to go as I thought :-O. Last week, I stripped the decking off the hull, and the bilge was FILTHY. I found twenty year old beer cans down there! It's hard to tell with all the soot, but the inside seems in good condition, I will know more when I pressure wash this...

Awesome - thanks!

So y'all say it's fairly minor? Would I do major damage to the hull if I were to take it into salt water for a test drive and then do the ospho, paint, etc? This is a trailered boat that's gonna live in my driveway for the most part. I've been reading about mill scale on the other tin boat...

I recently bought a 1984 19' Gregor Sea Hawk tin. The boat will be used exclusively in the salt, and I am wondering if I should paint the hull. There seems to be some white powdery substance on the hull bottom, is this corrosion? What should I do about it?? Thanks for any insight!