Recent content by Trout Hunter

I just did this exact thing. Here is a link that has a few pictures..... https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4099&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=20 Its pretty straight forward really. undo as many fasteners as you can. Grind off or drill out those that you can't. remove your old piece in...

gonna try one of the river anchors.... I've done the coffee can thing before but they drag on the harder bottoms. a good additional or backup though for when I want to anchor without swinging. I'll make one up and stach it somewhere in the front of the boat...

I think if you take up fly fishing it will be easier for you. 4 piece rods and easier to pack small flies make motorcycles a sinch! You could get 4 piece spin rods as well I bet. (I only fly fish). If the cooler is for your lunch you could get a softsided one and sling it over one shoulde bike...

got the transom replaced today. Things went pretty well considering my lack of carpentry skills and the fact that its my first ever attempt at something like this. I found out that I need a few more screws but I used what I had laying around for the time being. I will pick some more up this week...

Pictures of the old transom wood. You can't see the break or just how much it was squished and punky where the motor goes but trust me... twas bad! I've started on the new piece. Laminated 2 5/8 pieces and one 1/4 piece together. The edges areen't perfect cause I can't cut straight but...

I really like how you did the bracing. did you just use self tappers right into the seat sides? the braces that are underneath don't look like they are screwed to the bottom at all. Are they? I am sort of a big guy..... 255, would your decking set up hold my fat butt? Have you had it out yet...

No worries! I found a scrap piece of 1/4 plywood at work tonight. Woohoo! Now I just have to cut it out and glue to the other two. I'll try and post pictures later today of what I have so far.

I do infact have enough plywood to add another layer. It will be abit thicker than before though and I worry about it throwing everything off..... I'll cut it out and dry fit it to see how it fits before I glue it on. There is plenty of room for the motor mount so thats not an issue. Any ideas...

Ok, old transom is out.... not only was it rotted and punky, but it was broked in one spot right where the motor sat. No wonder it was flexing so bad. :shock: What I came up with was laminated plywood loke many others have done. I am, however, 1/4 inch thinner than the old transom. I now think...

I should add that all the hardware I will use to reattach will be stainless. found some steel, some stainless, some zinc, some brass..... whoever replaced it last used what they had.... I only had to drill out 7 rivets, the rest were broken, and cut off 2 bolts. (stainless bolt with steel nut....)

ok, transom wood is out. Rotted! and very soft right where the motor would sit. So, whats stronger a 2x10 like I said or some plywood that is gorrilla glued together at the right thickness?? I think that the plywood wood be stiffer but not necessarily stronger..... leaning toward the plywood...

couple more pics. I was thinking of making the low spot on the transom a bit smaller. When I decellerate, I get water over the top of it at the low spot. I plan on leaving the motor where it is so I'll cut out a spot for it to fit into but is there any reason I shouldn't make that low spot a bit...

Oh man oh man ohman! I am taking notes on all of this! Really excited about this project. Now, for the questions one at a time.... I hope to replace the transom wood asap. certainly before I put it in the water again. IS Pressure treated ok to use for that or should I use regular wood and treat...

I have an older (1980?) mercury 20 horse. My buddy told me to use 89 octane instead of 87..... Says, "them old motors run better on higher octane". Is he right? I have heard to never do that in cars that don't specifically call for it so I am a bit leery. Thanks!