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I've searched and looked at charts and cannot determine what year this honda motor is. I appreciate any help. On the plate it says BAAJ-160xxxx. Bf8d. Can anyone tell me what year this is? Thanks.

Just because you see them all make peak hp of 25hp does not mean they will perform the same.

You will notice the biggest difference in torque and hp when the boats are loaded near capacity. When fully loaded down, I dought any 4 stroke 25 will be even close to the etec.

I tend to swap boats and motors around allot and hate drilling holes in transoms. I never drill them and bolt the motor down if it has clamps and is a 25hp or less 2 stroke. I was considering purchasing a power tilt 25hp for a boat that currently has no holes in it. Not knowing how long I may...

Yeah, that's what I'm talking about. That would be a major hurdle for me.

If gas is shooting out the carb when squeezing the bulb, the float or needle is not right.

I think it has appeal as a kicker around where I live. I'd say 900 around here (indiana).

I saw the info on that new yamaha 25 also the other day. Its about time they made it fuel injected. I believe the the honda is still carbureted. I'm sure many like carbs, but I'll take fuel injection any day. I went shopping for a new 25 several years ago and it was the etec by a huge...

This may be odvious, but did you have to cut off. and re weld the transom corner braces?

Thanks for the suggestion. I guess I just didn't loosen the shift connector bolt enough. I thought it was just a slip fit, but it appears there is a slot in the shaft requiring you to back the bolt out completely.

Need help. I'm trying to remove the lower unit on a evinrude/Johnson 15 hp long shaft. The motor has that removable extension piece. I loosened the shift shaft clamps but the lower unit won't come free. Is the shifter the only thing holding it on? Should I just pull harder? Any help...

I purchased this motor from a friend not running. I cleaned the carbs and rebuilt the fuel pump. One thing I noticed on the fuel pump is that there is a spring and round plate that is pushing against the diaphragm. When I look at the parts diagram, these parts are shown, but they don't appear...

I like to attach a rope to the motor just in case.

I would buy a mini jack plate or something like that. I wouldn't tear the transom up trying to make the entire transom 20". I'd purchase a different boat before doing that.

There should be some adjustment on the end of your cables. You might try removing the cable and putting it into reverse by hand and see if that works.

That makes sense. I guess I'll just leave it as it's not real ly bothering anything. Thanks.

This is on a 50hp tracker Inc outboard. It's attached to the mounting bracket above the tilt pump. There are some wires going to it. What is it and is it necessary? Thanks.

I think those carbs will always drip some due to their design. The throttle plate shaft is verticle with a hole all the way through the top and bottom of the carb body. There is no oring or seal on this shaft. When the motor stops, any excess fuel finds its way through the hole and leaks out...

If this is the 4 cylinder 2 carb motor, it's very easy to work on the carbs. I can easily remove both carbs in 10 minutes. There is just one carb bolt that is slow to remove. I was wondering when you run that motor if you notice any fuel leaking down the throttle shaft shortly after shutting...

Thanks for the ideas. For now, I put a little Teflon tape on the threads, put the screw back on and covered the exterior screw with silicone. It seems fine for now, but I'll look into a Permanent fix.