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Thanks for the advice. It is stock Lund carpeted plywood flooring that I am guessing is either 3/4" or 7/8". It is all one piece which is why I don't want to take it up and go from underneath. I don't think there is a whole lot of room underneath from bottom of plywood to hull. It's pretty...

Looking for suggestions or advice on mounting a pedestal base on the rear of my 16' Lund WS-16 with a wood floor. I do not want to tear up floor boarding to mount from underneath but am concerned with strength with backing from underneath. Not sure if lag screws would hold or just rip out over...

I 2nd that. All they can say is "no". They would have to have them for boats that get damaged.

Just bought and mounted a Minn Kota Terrova 80 I pilot link. Have not used it yet but the reviews look really good...especially if you have a Humminbird. As far as suppliers go... Find out exactly what you want and just google the crap out of it until you find a price and supplier you are...

Everything sealed and solid as hell. Need to mount trolling motor bracket and run electric. Not to bad for a first timer.

Dale...I am going to use something very close to that...countersunk finish washer. Just to give the bolt head more "bite".

Along those very same lines...a 44 mag cigar cutter would work too but brass tubing is cheaper.

Not sure why I didn't think of this before. I am going to take a piece of scrap plywood and drill a hole then cover piece with the carpet and drill through that hole and create another and see what happens and go from there. One of the two should give me the results I am looking for.

Getting ready to install new front deck on my Lund and am wondering the best method for going through the carpet with the bolts so I don't have a shredded carpet on my hands. I am using 1/4" #20 stainless bolts to go through the deck into 2 1/2" alum brackets with nylocs. Do I drill first then...

Any suggestions on filling the holes in the rail? I was just going to get some stainless button head screws with silicone and put those in. Doesn't seem like there is a really good "pretty" solution unless you can think of anything.

Well...here goes. Some pics from start of new front deck. I may replace the piece running across with a piece of aluminum rectangular tubing and just brace deck right into it along with alum brackets along inside of the rail with stainless bolts and nylocks. That would make it ultra strong.

Snapped a picture at a Lund dealer yesterday of the underside of a new Lund with a front deck just to see how Lund does this. Looks pretty simple.

Regarding the brackets...how do you get the correct angle from 90deg. Obviously it will have to be bent. Heat? I am leaning towards alum angle for bracing and supports. Any ideas without damaging material. Never worked that much with alum so sorry if I sound like an idiot. Original deck...

Yeah, I thought about it pressing out as I flattened after I posted that. Somethings gonna give. So, I am either going to go with an aluminum flat top with support or a plywood carpet covered flat deck. Either way...brackets and cross supports. Plywood obviously is easier to cut. I do think...

I was going to take the metal deck off altogether and replace it with carpeted plywood which I could bolt through the top with stainless carriage bolts and nylock underneath. At present, there is only one cross support bracket and that is the piece that runs at the very back of the deck and is...

Looked at it tonite and am going to take the whole deck off and use alum brackets tied in to cross bracing with pre-determined spacing setup for trolling motor bracket. Should not need more than 3 cross braces. Stainless lags into plywood should work...may also backplate the bottom with...

@Johnny...I agree. I have too much into this freakin motor for it to have an issue. How do you attach the angle brackets to the side of the hull? Rivets or screws? Obviously drill out the ones holding the present deck on and it should pull right off correct? Should I run the side support...

Biggest issue is that the aluminum deck is slightly convex and is not flat making it difficult to get something tight up against the underside to support it. More rivets won't help. Maybe a Y piece attacked to that seat part and make that metal instead of current wood and weld a flange of some...

Looking for ideas on support the deck just like the front deck of these Lunds pictured. I just bought a new Terrova 80 to go on and the deck flexes under the torque of a 35lb motor currently on it but not bad enough to really make a major change. I am afraid with the torque of an 80 lb motor I...

I wish Minn Kota made the Terrova 80 I-pilot link with a 54" shaft. Ended up going with a 60" and will see once I get all the pieces and parts together how it's going to work on my Lund. Too long is better than too short...especially in a chop. I had an old powerdrive that would come out of...