Search results

We need pics of the hull fabrication and drive arrangement. This is awesome.

Plugs and timing did the trick. It’ll idle smooth under 700 rpm and rolls on strong all the way to WOT. I may ask this in a new thread but it’s worth putting it here. Target WOT is 4500. It currently spins up to around 5100. Is there a rule of thumb to get me in the ballpark for a prop? Edit...

Update - installed new coils and wires. New coils measured around 4.5k across the secondary windings. Motor ran pretty well last weekend. Idles really smooth and has plenty of power at the top end of the RPM range. It stumbles really bad as I roll on the throttle though. Almost like a cylinder...

100% mig. It just places the wire spool at the gun rather than at the machine. Reduces the risk of bird nesting the soft wire from pushing it through the full length liner.

Good call. I was stuck on using thinner material to better match the hull thickness, but that's not necessary at all. 1/8" transom panel and flange would work just as well. Sandwich a rubber strip between the two and go crazy with the rivets. I planned to use my spool gun for this project, but...

You're not wrong, haha. I already have a 14' fishing boat that meets my practical needs and I came across this hull for free. I spend my afternoons in the shop and this is the perfect opportunity to build some skills working with thin aluminum. I have no interest in resale value and if I fail...

You guys have me reconsidering my weld plan and researching other methods. Reusing the original transom may work if I only cut out the damaged portion, but if I'm chopping it I want to go a bit more extreme and cut the whole rear bench out. At that point I'd have to pull each side in multiple...

I think I used the cam style beyond it's full ability. This is the deformed plate I was talking about. My cam style is now a pain to use because the handle doesn't spin so well against a taco'd plate. It still stays in the boat for emergencies. The T-handle plug is rock solid. I can cinch it...

I use the one on the left. Used the one on the right for a while, but the plate that the lever cams against deformed quickly. The left one seems to use thicker plates and is more robust.

I kept reading 3k-8k or 3k -10k. Rarely saw reports of anything north of 20k, and when I did they decided to replace them for the sake of being thorough and it solved other mystery performance issues they were having. It'll give me the warm and fuzzies to start fresh with OMC coils.

Update - further inspection shows the coil may be cracked. Playing it safe and just ordered a pair of OEM OMC coils.

Good input. I'll experiment with welding the hull on the damaged area. I have experience welding transoms (converting short shaft to long shaft) on more modern Jon's, but I'll admit I never measured the thickness. That's to say I have some experience, but not enough to be overly confident yet...

Posting here rather than in the electrical forum as it's related to motors. I picked up a '57 18hp Johnson a few weeks ago and I'm freshening up the ignition. Looks like the coils have been replaced at one time, and I have one that is reading pretty high across the secondary. I still have...

That all makes good sense. I was just surprised to see it being multiple inches longer than the transom height. I could do some work that would allow me to play with the motor height relative to the bottom of the boat, but I swap motors often so I'm not sure I want to put forth the effort to...

My apologies if this has been beaten to death. I keep reading that short shaft boats have a 15" tall transom and ideal running conditions place the motor plate essentially level with the bottom of the boat. My short shaft boat measures very close to 15" at the transom. I have a couple short...

My family dug an old 14' Sea King out of the woods at our farm. I already have a 14' V and this one has a big hole near the transom, so I thought I'd have some fun with it. My plan is to chop it down to ~10' to make it a fun solo boat. I thought I'd reach out here to see if there were any...

Hard to say. The motor has been with the previous owner for at least a decade. That's how long I've been with my wife and I've never seen it at my FIL's house. The Sierra parts came from the previous owner which makes me think they were proactive about maintenance. Coils are different colors...

I hear that, Pappy. I'm just not convinced that the old points are still OEM. I'll look a bit closer when I have it opened up again.

I've been reading up on points, how they work, etc. I think I have enough info to be dangerous at this point. Once it was running clean at top RPM, I could hear that cylinder drop out a time or two as I lowered the throttle. Even so, it was idling down around 650 during this outing. My next...

She runs like a top! Throwing a nice wake and pulling 4k at WOT. Thanks everyone, I feel like I know this motor inside and out now.