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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
14 foot Gregor V Hull - Livewell, Casting Deck, Foam Floors
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<blockquote data-quote="xbacksideslider" data-source="post: 247846" data-attributes="member: 8051"><p>Didn't take any pics while I was making the floor decks.</p><p></p><p>Home Depot sells 4x8 sheets of styrofoam; it comes in 3/8" 1/2" 3/4" 1" and so on. I bought three sheets, as I recall, one of 3/8, one of 1/2, and one of 3/4. They run from $8 to $10 per, depending on the thickness. They are covered with a plastic film vapor barrier which is great because that skin adds strength, holds the foam together, and most important - it is compatible with contact cement. </p><p></p><p>For me, the best way to cut the styrofoam turned out to be a free hand hacksaw blade. I used a framing square, a straight edge, and a magic marker to layout the cuts. A belt sander cleans up the edges nicely - knocks off the little loose balls of foam - also good for shaping the edges/fixing long cuts, and "wedging" the edges to shape the hull.</p><p></p><p>The low spots between the stringers/strakes/longitudinal reinforcements were filled with rectangles cut from the styrofoam. As I built it up, I used plastic shipping tape to hold the pieces in place. Because my hull is a V hull, I had to fill that V, raise the center to level, but I had to do it with parallel sided sheet rectangles of foam!?!?! To do that I knocked the corner off the port or starboard long edge of the rectangles by trimming them (no longer parallel top to bottom)with the belt sander. I cheated a bit with a can of that chemical foam "Gap and Hole" filler to fill long skinny small triangles/gaps. A final sheet of styrofoam then flattened it all out before the final thin plywood top was glued into place. Two spray cans of contact cement gave me great coverage and super adhesion.</p><p></p><p>As you can see in the pics, a piece of aluminum angle, screwed to the seat bulkhead panels, holds these floor panels down; stainless sheet metal screws hold the angle to the seat bulkhead panels.</p><p></p><p>I weigh 260 and the floors do give underfoot, like an anti-fatique mat. They have not compacted to any noticeable extent - yet. And they are very quiet. The sound of ripples on the lake, slapping on the hull, are equivalent to a glass boat.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="xbacksideslider, post: 247846, member: 8051"] Didn't take any pics while I was making the floor decks. Home Depot sells 4x8 sheets of styrofoam; it comes in 3/8" 1/2" 3/4" 1" and so on. I bought three sheets, as I recall, one of 3/8, one of 1/2, and one of 3/4. They run from $8 to $10 per, depending on the thickness. They are covered with a plastic film vapor barrier which is great because that skin adds strength, holds the foam together, and most important - it is compatible with contact cement. For me, the best way to cut the styrofoam turned out to be a free hand hacksaw blade. I used a framing square, a straight edge, and a magic marker to layout the cuts. A belt sander cleans up the edges nicely - knocks off the little loose balls of foam - also good for shaping the edges/fixing long cuts, and "wedging" the edges to shape the hull. The low spots between the stringers/strakes/longitudinal reinforcements were filled with rectangles cut from the styrofoam. As I built it up, I used plastic shipping tape to hold the pieces in place. Because my hull is a V hull, I had to fill that V, raise the center to level, but I had to do it with parallel sided sheet rectangles of foam!?!?! To do that I knocked the corner off the port or starboard long edge of the rectangles by trimming them (no longer parallel top to bottom)with the belt sander. I cheated a bit with a can of that chemical foam "Gap and Hole" filler to fill long skinny small triangles/gaps. A final sheet of styrofoam then flattened it all out before the final thin plywood top was glued into place. Two spray cans of contact cement gave me great coverage and super adhesion. As you can see in the pics, a piece of aluminum angle, screwed to the seat bulkhead panels, holds these floor panels down; stainless sheet metal screws hold the angle to the seat bulkhead panels. I weigh 260 and the floors do give underfoot, like an anti-fatique mat. They have not compacted to any noticeable extent - yet. And they are very quiet. The sound of ripples on the lake, slapping on the hull, are equivalent to a glass boat. [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
14 foot Gregor V Hull - Livewell, Casting Deck, Foam Floors
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