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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1960ish 16ft RICH LINE SEMO V BOTTOM
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<blockquote data-quote="DaleH" data-source="post: 426087" data-attributes="member: 15636"><p>First off, welcome aboard!</p><p></p><p>Secondly, I'll admit I'm a minimalist when it comes to flooring and boats smaller than 14' and/or less than 40hp. I cannot believe how much boat (and weight) some will cram into a little tin boat. But I guess if I was just on ponds and smaller lakes I'd probably try that too. For me, for use in rivers or saltwaters, I value strength, power and inherent stability over some creature comforts.</p><p></p><p>That said, I once took a sheet of 1/4" luan, cut it to fit the space between the seats on a 12-footer and stood on it to get an idea of the depth of the concave curve the piece had. I then jigged that up and coated it with epoxy where it cured as roughly bent to that curve. Put that piece in place and covered it with some rain mat-type rubber-backed thin carpeting. Not too much weight and it worked, albeit the floor wasn't perfectly horizontally flat, but still allowed easy and secure footing for moving fore & aft.</p><p></p><p>I'd consider flooring options so you could safely add the bow & stern platforms you're looking for. Nice rig and I'm sure others will chime, especially others who have done what you're seeking!</p><p></p><p>In regards to removing structural components - it can be done - but you need to replace it with some other method to add back in the support. Some hulls with an open design use a "knee" from the top-sides to the floor to add back in that stability to the sides. Tin is going to move, but if it flexes beyond its elastic limits repeatedly, then stress cracks and/or fractures can begin to appear, i.e., think about severely bending a paper clip back and forth as an example.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DaleH, post: 426087, member: 15636"] First off, welcome aboard! Secondly, I'll admit I'm a minimalist when it comes to flooring and boats smaller than 14' and/or less than 40hp. I cannot believe how much boat (and weight) some will cram into a little tin boat. But I guess if I was just on ponds and smaller lakes I'd probably try that too. For me, for use in rivers or saltwaters, I value strength, power and inherent stability over some creature comforts. That said, I once took a sheet of 1/4" luan, cut it to fit the space between the seats on a 12-footer and stood on it to get an idea of the depth of the concave curve the piece had. I then jigged that up and coated it with epoxy where it cured as roughly bent to that curve. Put that piece in place and covered it with some rain mat-type rubber-backed thin carpeting. Not too much weight and it worked, albeit the floor wasn't perfectly horizontally flat, but still allowed easy and secure footing for moving fore & aft. I'd consider flooring options so you could safely add the bow & stern platforms you're looking for. Nice rig and I'm sure others will chime, especially others who have done what you're seeking! In regards to removing structural components - it can be done - but you need to replace it with some other method to add back in the support. Some hulls with an open design use a "knee" from the top-sides to the floor to add back in that stability to the sides. Tin is going to move, but if it flexes beyond its elastic limits repeatedly, then stress cracks and/or fractures can begin to appear, i.e., think about severely bending a paper clip back and forth as an example. [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
1960ish 16ft RICH LINE SEMO V BOTTOM
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