TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
Forums
New posts
Search forums
Blog
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Boats
Boat House
Marine grade plywood or high grade plywood for catwalk?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support TinBoats.net:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="xbacksideslider" data-source="post: 264162" data-attributes="member: 8051"><p>Ditto on the MDO, definitely preferred.</p><p></p><p>That said, . . . . the most important aspect are the veneers; you want plywood without any gaps or voids, especially in the top and bottom veneers. Look too to the edges - those voids are where you can see the lower quality of the internal veneers; often there were knots in an internal veneer or two edges where the mill joined two veneers and then sandwiched them butt to butt as an internal veneer of the sheet. </p><p></p><p>The point is that water penetrates where the veneer is discontinuous, where those eye shaped patches are seen on the surface veneer, or where there are similar patches, holes/gaps/voids that you can see only at the edge of the sheet. Sealing helps, especially the edges, but continuous internal and external veneers are the best foundation. MDO incorporates this idea.</p><p></p><p>As for bolting it down, for each bolt, I'd put a stainless fender washer between the plywood and the trailer so that the wood will stand slightly proud of the trailer and so that air can get in there to dry it out. For the same reason, I'd also just sprinkle sand onto your wet paint/sealer for a non-slip finish; personally, I'd seal the edges and just stain the surfaces.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="xbacksideslider, post: 264162, member: 8051"] Ditto on the MDO, definitely preferred. That said, . . . . the most important aspect are the veneers; you want plywood without any gaps or voids, especially in the top and bottom veneers. Look too to the edges - those voids are where you can see the lower quality of the internal veneers; often there were knots in an internal veneer or two edges where the mill joined two veneers and then sandwiched them butt to butt as an internal veneer of the sheet. The point is that water penetrates where the veneer is discontinuous, where those eye shaped patches are seen on the surface veneer, or where there are similar patches, holes/gaps/voids that you can see only at the edge of the sheet. Sealing helps, especially the edges, but continuous internal and external veneers are the best foundation. MDO incorporates this idea. As for bolting it down, for each bolt, I'd put a stainless fender washer between the plywood and the trailer so that the wood will stand slightly proud of the trailer and so that air can get in there to dry it out. For the same reason, I'd also just sprinkle sand onto your wet paint/sealer for a non-slip finish; personally, I'd seal the edges and just stain the surfaces. [/QUOTE]
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Boats
Boat House
Marine grade plywood or high grade plywood for catwalk?
Top