Modifying a 12-foot 1970 V-hull

[BadMan]

I owned a Fiberglas boat years ago. Loved it. Eventually sold it.

Nowadays, I live in a resort town with easy access to four smallish lakes. Some have horsepower limits, some have electric-only restrictions. I needed a boat again. So I went in search of a small aluminum boat and trailer as cheap as possible.

I found them for $300 late in the summer:

The boat is a 12' V-hull, listed as a 1970 model on the registration. Whoever built it has been lost to time. It had no motor--no problem, since I plan to buy a transom-mount trolling motor. Trailer is clearly home built from a Harbor Freight utility trailer. It needs proper hardware (a winch would help) and better bunks, but it will work.

The wooden seats are in bad shape. Some repairs around rivets have been made with what looks like caulk. Hardware (handles, etc.) is loose and needs to be removed and re-installed with new nuts and bolts.

I have started removing the white house paint--I assume--that was sloppily applied (as it usually is on these boats!).

Using Jasco stripper and a grinding wheel, I have nearly finished stripping the outside hull. For house paint, it was surprisingly tough to remove. Inside hull is the same.

Surprise! Under the white paint, the hull near the stern is heavily Bondo'd! Oh, well.

The transom is a solid piece of lumber that has rusted bolts used to hold an outboard. It probably should be replaced.

So, here are my simple plans:
1. Repaint and reseal rivets where required.
2. Replace wood deck seats with finished oak (which I have already).
3. Add a wooden floor.
4. Put in standard padded seats--the aft will be on one of those "no-rise" swivels so I can reach the handle on a transom-mount trolling motor;the middle seat will go on a 7" high pedestal.
5. Add wiring for lights, motor, portable live well, maybe a radio.
6. Build a battery box someplace where it will look good--maybe forward.
7. Build livewell and radio (and speakers) mounting box of some sort.

Any other ideas?

I've been calling this my "unique fixer-upper opportunity," by the way!

 

[downtofish]

eh, stripping by 12 foot v hull at the moment, no bondo but it is pretty pitted on the one side. not enough to scrap it though, just gona go heavy on the epoxy and bed liner the inside, should be able to run the thing it to rocks by the time im done with the "paint".

 

[BadMan]

Have you seen that commercial for the spray-on product where they cut a screen door into the hull of a boat, then they spray it and the door does not leak?
I wonder if that would work...

 

[gouran01]

good idea to fill the lower half of the boat with water to see where any leaks may be, not to much though, the trailer would bust if you fill it completely. Don't use sealer on rivets, while you have it all stripped apart they are very easy to get rebucked. A lot of quality options along the lines of epoxies and paint that will seal all the seams very well. I wouldn't recomment the spray stuff, not really a tested and proven product.

 

[BadMan]

Inside now...

There are two ribs that run longitudinally. My current plan is to lay 2x2s along side them and the attach the 3/4" flooring to those. (The 2x2s will hold the floor about a 1/4" higher than the ribs.)

Should I fasten the 2x2 to the ribs or make them snug and leave the floor removable? The floor sections won't move fore and aft, because they will be held by the aluminum seat supports.

 

[Jonboat Jerry]

Inside now...There are two ribs that run longitudinally. My current plan is to lay 2x2s along side them and the attach the 3/4" flooring to those. (The 2x2s will hold the floor about a 1/4" higher than the ribs.)
Should I fasten the 2x2 to the ribs or make them snug and leave the floor removable? The floor sections won't move fore and aft, because they will be held by the aluminum seat supports.

Hi BadMan, Sounds like a good plan for the decking. I would leave the floor loose, but attach angle alum strips/clamps to the bottom of the seat supports to hold the floor in in case of swamping. This would allow for access by removing the clamps.
Pressure treated wood is a not a choice because the copper will pit the Aluminum where it's in contact. Practically any hard wood will work if sealed against moisture. One last thought, WEIGHT is NOT your friend in a small boat. The smaller the boat, the more critical the issue. Wood, fasteners, gear, batteries & trolling motor all add up, so keep an eye out.
Nice work, keep the pics coming, and welcome to Tin Boats....Jerry

 

[BadMan]

Great idea to keep the floor in place!

Thanks!

 

[Jdholmes]

Consider more skeleton and less flesh...make sure you have a decent amount of support for it and go with 1/2 inch. Should save you a good deal on weight...3/4 is hefty and every pound counts, especially if you are only planning on using a trolling motor.

 

[BadMan]

Consider more skeleton and less flesh...make sure you have a decent amount of support for it and go with 1/2 inch. Should save you a good deal on weight...3/4 is hefty and every pound counts, especially if you are only planning on using a trolling motor.

Okay, went with 1/2"--it should do well, since this isn't an elevated casting deck, just a flat floor on the hull.

Thanks for the advice

Also: Leak-tested. To my surprise, just 4 small leaks, and 3 were along one line of rivets where the hull was dented.

 

[tins2cool]

I got me a 12' and I used 1/2" ply plus I put blue(closed cell) insulated board under the plywood between the ribs for extra float just in case of a swamp.Just don't get to carried away with all you want to put in it and just put in what you need and you will enjoy.I do like mine a lot with it being so small I don't always need a boat launch just get it close to the water then pull it in.

 

[BadMan]

I have reconsidered the livewell idea with all this discussion about weight.

Now just looking at flooring, seats on swivels, and lights plus some cosmetic fixes.

That way I can carry a cooler with food and drinks, tackle, the deepcycle battery, and a friend and still get away with a trolling motor for power.

 

[BadMan]

No photos this time, but there will be soon. I've cut and applied sealant to the 3 floor pieces, and carpet is next.

Also have cut and varnished (1 coat) the wooden seats. They are oak and look very sharp!

More to come.

 

[BadMan]

Mid-way through the project:

Boat hull is black as is trailer. Trailer needed work. I added a front jack and wheel. Recarpeted the bunks. Added new rollers and a bow stop.

Inside, I finished and fitted the oak-plank seats (I added new floatation foam, too) to replace the plywood ones. Also the floor is in; I waterproofed it then added carpeting. This all needs to come back out so I can spray the inside with truck-bed liner.

I'm going to add seats, but have yet to decide if they'll be mounted on pedestals as planned or with those "portable" clamps.

More to come.

 

[Jay D]

I would think a little while on the truck bed liner unless it is light colored in the hot sun of Arizona. It looks like the paint is in good condition except its old paint. I would clean, use aluminum primer and spray paint a light colored coat of paint on it. I had a 12' seaking that looked just like yours, loved it and caught alot of fish from it. I am Just trying to help you. :wink:

 

[BadMan]

Good idea...I am applying bedliner only to the portion below my decks, and above will be tan.

Took it out for a test and learned that elevated decks would have been a disaster. It is smal enough that it would quickly have tipped over. Tough to stand in, let alone stand ON.

 

[BadMan]

It is nearly done. Taking advice offered here, I painted the interior hull a light tan.

Added wiring for a fishfinder that was included with the boat. It is old, but it was in the deal and it powers up, so I am going to try it. Made a small bracket to hold it on an oarlock.

I have only installed one seat. This little boat is somewhat unstable (tippy) and I had planned to put the middle seat on a 7" pedestal, but I am not confident that it's safe yet.

You can see the floor. I like it. Looks good.

I threaded the anchor rope through the other oarlock.