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Patching inner transom
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<blockquote data-quote="DaleH" data-source="post: 452742" data-attributes="member: 15636"><p>You might also want to buck the rivets in the stern, if you're having slow leaks. </p><p></p><p>And you should check the curing agents in that No More Nails adhesive, as I know the curing agent in most silicone is not compatible with tin. If it were mine, I'd use the West Systems G-Flex 650 liquid 'flexible' epoxy, as that will weep into ares those other products will never reach. A hair dryer on warm can help it weep into areas really well. See here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40954</p><p></p><p>Any of these products need to be top-coated to prevent UV damage, like gray Rust-Oleum paint and is best applied to cleaned, prepped and primed surfaces.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DaleH, post: 452742, member: 15636"] You might also want to buck the rivets in the stern, if you're having slow leaks. And you should check the curing agents in that No More Nails adhesive, as I know the curing agent in most silicone is not compatible with tin. If it were mine, I'd use the West Systems G-Flex 650 liquid 'flexible' epoxy, as that will weep into ares those other products will never reach. A hair dryer on warm can help it weep into areas really well. See here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40954 Any of these products need to be top-coated to prevent UV damage, like gray Rust-Oleum paint and is best applied to cleaned, prepped and primed surfaces. [/QUOTE]
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