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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
Pinholes in my transom
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<blockquote data-quote="DaleH" data-source="post: 473144" data-attributes="member: 15636"><p>... and cause the tin to corrode. Silicone has curing agents that attack tin. Even tin must be primed before using something like 5200 or ANY epoxy or 'goop' product. </p><p></p><p>For the Duranautic hole ... I'd clean well with vinegar and copper brushes, then rinse well. Prime with zinc chromate, then I'd apply 2-part West System G-Flex flexible epoxy ($21) and once kicked (i.e., tacky) I'd rivet the patch piece in place. Done once ... done right!</p><p></p><p>For the Duranautic transom ... I would not use HDPE, too heavy and too flexible. See my signature post for the '16 foot V-tin hull refurb' for an easy, last-a-lifetime, transom replacement. </p><p></p><p>For the other boat ... I'd <em><strong>replace </strong>the entire transom ski</em>n :shock: , see my posts on how I did it to a Starcraft 16-footer, not that I'd ever want to do it again!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DaleH, post: 473144, member: 15636"] ... and cause the tin to corrode. Silicone has curing agents that attack tin. Even tin must be primed before using something like 5200 or ANY epoxy or 'goop' product. For the Duranautic hole ... I'd clean well with vinegar and copper brushes, then rinse well. Prime with zinc chromate, then I'd apply 2-part West System G-Flex flexible epoxy ($21) and once kicked (i.e., tacky) I'd rivet the patch piece in place. Done once ... done right! For the Duranautic transom ... I would not use HDPE, too heavy and too flexible. See my signature post for the '16 foot V-tin hull refurb' for an easy, last-a-lifetime, transom replacement. For the other boat ... I'd [i][b]replace [/b]the entire transom ski[/i]n :shock: , see my posts on how I did it to a Starcraft 16-footer, not that I'd ever want to do it again! [/QUOTE]
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Jon and V Boat Conversions & Modifications
Pinholes in my transom
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