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Steering hard
- Thread starter RMB
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- LOCATION
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I'm not real familiar with stick steer setups are the helms adjustable? Sometimes a helm or cables just need replaced too.
I agree with Flathead Steve, I don't know if this is the case but I'd change the cable.
Not familiar with stick steer either. I'm assuming you mean sitting at rest the stick steer is hard to move and hard to move when at slow speeds. Does the stick steer box have a friction adjustment that might be too tight? Be nice if it was that simple. Otherwise I think Crazyboat and Flatheadsteve are right on.
InSaneFisherMan
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My motor has a steering tension adjustment, check it first.
Before I would replace a cable, I would ddisconnect the motor from steering and determine if it is the motor or steering system. 1 bolt on mine.
Before I would replace a cable, I would ddisconnect the motor from steering and determine if it is the motor or steering system. 1 bolt on mine.
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2023
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Yup... first rule of troubleshooting ... half split the problem
Bailey Boat
Well-known member
ALWAYS, and I mean ALWAYS check the CHEAPEST fix first..... sometimes ya get lucky....
thill
Well-known member
Unbolt the steering bar at the motor and check the stick. If still tight, loosen the nut and pull the steering cable out of the steering tube of the motor. THAT is usually where steering gets tight.
If it gets easy after that, clean out the steering tube and clean the rod with WD40 or SuperTech spray lubricant. (much cheaper!) Here is the process:
First, you must get the old grease out. Spray a bunch of WD40 into the tube. You will need an old T-shirt or rag, and use a piece of rebar or anything long. Make the plug tight and use the rebar with a hammer to drive the plug and all the hardened grease out of the tube. Repeat several times. Then spray it out and use a fresh wad of T-shirt to get it shiny-clean inside.
Then, you need to re-grease the steering tube.
Use a fairly loose wad of T-shirt, slather it in grease and run it through the tube, making sure to generously coat the inside of the tube. Then slide your cleaned steering rod back in and reconnect.
Sometimes, the grease is really hardened, like plastic. A 1/2" copper pipe fitting brush on a drill extension works well for breaking it up. Spray WD40 in there, and start drilling the wire brush in there. Have an old towel on the other end to catch the nasty stuff coming out the other end.
The tube diameter is exactly 5/8". You will need to buy a 16' long, 5/8" metal drill bit for just that purpose. Here is a link to the one I use: AMAZON: Irwin 18" Drill Bit, 5/8" Diameter
Spray WD40 in there, and run the bit through gently, not forcing it too hard. Don't be afraid if you hear crunching and cracking sounds. That's the rust breaking up. There is nothing else you can hurt in there. Some tubes have O-rings, but if it's rusty inside, they are gone anyway. Not an issue. With the twist bit, you can push it in and out to clear the flutes anytime. It only takes a minute or two, and she will be clear.
If you don't have or want to buy a spiral bit, you may already have a 5/8" paddle bit (Amazon: Speedbor 5/8" Bit) and an extension. (Amazon: 1/4" Bit Extension) This works fine, but YOU MUST PULL the bit through the tube, not push it. Push the shaft through the tube, connect your drill, spray some WD40 in there, and with the drill spinning at full speed in the forward direction, PULL it slowly it through the tube. Make sure to pull slowly, as it may buck a little when you hit a chunk of rust. Once or twice through, and it will be clear.
After using a drill bit, I usually follow with the wire brush, then use T-shirt wad to wash out the debris and grease the tube before putting the rod back in.
I have saved a lot of people a lot of money using these methods, and it will work for you if your problem is in the steering tube and rod.
IF you have a sticky steering cable, look for any really sharp bends in the cable. That is sometimes the problem. If it's still sticky, there is a completely different process to lubricate/fix that, and it only works about 50% of the time.
If it gets easy after that, clean out the steering tube and clean the rod with WD40 or SuperTech spray lubricant. (much cheaper!) Here is the process:
First, you must get the old grease out. Spray a bunch of WD40 into the tube. You will need an old T-shirt or rag, and use a piece of rebar or anything long. Make the plug tight and use the rebar with a hammer to drive the plug and all the hardened grease out of the tube. Repeat several times. Then spray it out and use a fresh wad of T-shirt to get it shiny-clean inside.
Then, you need to re-grease the steering tube.
Use a fairly loose wad of T-shirt, slather it in grease and run it through the tube, making sure to generously coat the inside of the tube. Then slide your cleaned steering rod back in and reconnect.
Sometimes, the grease is really hardened, like plastic. A 1/2" copper pipe fitting brush on a drill extension works well for breaking it up. Spray WD40 in there, and start drilling the wire brush in there. Have an old towel on the other end to catch the nasty stuff coming out the other end.
- DO NOT STOP until you get the brush all the way out the other end, or you will damage the brush.
- DO NOT switch the drill from forward to backwards while in the tube.
The tube diameter is exactly 5/8". You will need to buy a 16' long, 5/8" metal drill bit for just that purpose. Here is a link to the one I use: AMAZON: Irwin 18" Drill Bit, 5/8" Diameter
Spray WD40 in there, and run the bit through gently, not forcing it too hard. Don't be afraid if you hear crunching and cracking sounds. That's the rust breaking up. There is nothing else you can hurt in there. Some tubes have O-rings, but if it's rusty inside, they are gone anyway. Not an issue. With the twist bit, you can push it in and out to clear the flutes anytime. It only takes a minute or two, and she will be clear.
If you don't have or want to buy a spiral bit, you may already have a 5/8" paddle bit (Amazon: Speedbor 5/8" Bit) and an extension. (Amazon: 1/4" Bit Extension) This works fine, but YOU MUST PULL the bit through the tube, not push it. Push the shaft through the tube, connect your drill, spray some WD40 in there, and with the drill spinning at full speed in the forward direction, PULL it slowly it through the tube. Make sure to pull slowly, as it may buck a little when you hit a chunk of rust. Once or twice through, and it will be clear.
After using a drill bit, I usually follow with the wire brush, then use T-shirt wad to wash out the debris and grease the tube before putting the rod back in.
I have saved a lot of people a lot of money using these methods, and it will work for you if your problem is in the steering tube and rod.
IF you have a sticky steering cable, look for any really sharp bends in the cable. That is sometimes the problem. If it's still sticky, there is a completely different process to lubricate/fix that, and it only works about 50% of the time.
With any issue hearing "been there and done that" is music to the ears!
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2023
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Oh yea... dis guy been there, done that.. the T shirt... pretty dirty I expect...
I been there... with a wooden dowel and sand paper and ugly stuff as well ...
now..
for the post mortem.. you can buy a special NUT that goes on the end of the tilt tube and has a grease fitting to .. well to make you happy about doing something... ain't worth squat as the grease don't get where it needs to be.. and the clean out the tilt tube process should be a regular maintenance item anyhoo
great stuff... site... thanks all
