Wiring diagram for an enclosed tin bass boat???

[richg99]

No wonder I have always liked open boats better.

This craft ( 2000 LOWE 16-58 bassboat style..completely covered decked boat)..see my avatar for a pix.... lost power to the console. I, no doubt, contributed to the problem...but I don't know enough to trace it out.

When installing a new fishfinder, I shorted out the FF power wires. From that point on, I have had no power to the console. I wonder if I blew a fusible link some place, since no other fuses are blown.

I have power at the stern battery compartment and through the breaker. The wires then disappear into the port side of the rear wall. The wires no doubt feed forward; they then wind from port to starboard.......and....somewhere..... hidden beneath the aluminum and plywood decking...change from stiff 8 gauge to flexible 10 gauge.

I get NO power at a connector block coming out beneath the console. The 10 gauge wires, along with a ton of other wires, come out of a two inch grommet on the starboard side.

So far I have removed the rear seat base...but that only allowed me to view more of the main stern hatch area. I thought I could pull the baitwell/fish well out for more viewing, but after cutting off a half dozen rivets, I find that the plastic well was put in place before the decking was added.

If I knew, for sure, the routing of the wire, and the point where the stiff 8 gauge is transferred to the flexible ten gauge, then I'd cut an access port to find what happened.

As an alternative to tearing up the boat...and lacking any diagram of where to tear a hole...my wife suggested that I simply run a new set of wires. She is one smart girl..she is! She's helped in every way possible for 51 years now. I think I'll keep her!

I pulled some new flexible ten gauge wires from the battery compartment in the stern to under the console. I used the side rails as a conduit, since I couldn't get the new wires pulled through the old mess.. It appears that her suggestion is going to do the job. When I apply power to the fuse block, ( under the console) everything seems to work fine.

However, i still don't like not knowing what went wrong. If anyone has torn one of these covered over bassboat designs apart, and could shed some light on what and where things are under the decking..I'd still like to "do it right".

For now, I think I can button everything up tomorrow and be back fishing by Monday.

regards, and thanks for any help or input. Rich

 

[Brine]

I don't know about the wiring diagrams, but I'm glad for you that your wife chimed in! :mrgreen:

I hope it all works out.

 

[kofkorn]

These aren't the diagrams for your boat, but they should help you to diagnose your issues. These were from Tracker for my '89 Pro 17.

In general, it's considered poor practice to splice wires in a location where the junction cannot be reached reasonably easily. Do you have any little hidden covers or other openings to check?

The warning horn, or maybe under the throttle controls?

The tracker has a small access hole for the warning horn that has a few wires running past it.

Good luck!

 

[richg99]

Thanks, I have saved the diagrams for future use.

Turns out that I was tracing the wrong wires. I ASSUMED that the console would be powered by the Trolling motor battery..and that was the wiring that disappeared under the decking.

After a number of frustrating hours checking for the other end of the wire...I finally took the boat into my trusted mechanic. I should have done that the first time, but he had moved to another dealer. I didn't know where he had gone until yesterday.

Turns out that the console was wired to the STARTING battery...and...on that battery there was a fuse holder with a blown fuse. The fuse that someone prior had put in was the wrong size.

Sometimes the solution is so da$% simple that we overlook the obvious.

My guy fixed a number of other issues; horn that didn't work; slow tilt and trim (needed bleeding and it was overfilled by the prior mechanic) and a few other issues..... so taking it in was the best choice anyhow.

regards,
Rich

 

[kofkorn]

I'm glad you got it figured out. That sounds like pretty standard wiring, as usually the only thing on the trolling battery is the trolling motor itself.

At least it was worthwhile for other reasons as well.

 

[richg99]

I understand the possible interference issues from the trolling motor. However, it seems to me that one could leave the lights on...and that would run the most important battery down...the battery that starts the motor.

I could do without the trolling motor more easily than I could do without the big motor. However, my mechanic said the same thing you did.

regards, Rich

 

[kofkorn]

If you look at the draws of most of the accessory items attached to your starting battery, there really isn't anything pulling any serious power. At the same time, some things like your fish finder and other sensitive electronics could get damaged if they operate at low voltage, which is more likely to occur on the trolling motor battery.

Worst comes to worst, just keep an old set of jumper cables on board. Then you can simply jump the starting battery with the trolling motor batt. if necessary.

 

[richg99]

It is amazing how minds run in similar paths. For that very purpose....I have a two foot long jumper cable under "construction" in my shop as I am typing this msg. I am making it up from some old, used cable clamps. The wire is two short pieces from a former full-sized jumper cable.

We've got to "Be Prepared". !! ha ha

regards, Rich

 

[muskiemike12]

I always have a full size set of cables, in case you need to get jumped from another boat.

 

[richg99]

Yes, I "normally " also have that, but space on this boat is starting to get tight. I have a set in my car at all times. Won't do me much good on the water, though. R

 

[Wallijig]

I keep a battery jump/booster pack in storage are in storage in boat. I have not needed to use it for myself, but have helped couple others out there on water.
I wired 110 outlets in different areas of boat. Setup my dads boat like this also he loves it. We hookup a short appliance cord we plug into receptacle at back of boat. and let hang out back next to motor from under tarp. That way when get home or at camp ground, we just have to plug in without having to untarp boat to get at plug. When go out unplug short appliance cord & stow away. close water proof cap over male receptacle mount in back of boat

 

[rusty.hook]

So where is Steve working now????
I have my GPS, fish finder, bilge and lights all going to my troll motor battery so there is no drain on the starting battery.

 

[richg99]

Steve is now working at Bowden marine, on Atascocita road in Humble, TX

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22498

I agree with the theory of putting everything on the TM battery. So..if I leave the bilge pump on, or the baitwell; or the lights...I STILL will have my starting battery. For now, I have a shortened set of jumper cables with the boat at all times. Rich