Dealbreakers...finally got the pics up!

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SmallieJonze

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Apr 12, 2010
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Location
Northern Illinois
I'm curious what to look for when buying/acquiring a boat that would be a deal breaker...
I know that a severely leaking boat is off the table. Damage, etc...
I'm meeting up with a guy to trade my canoe for his 1960's 16' modV & trailer. He says the boat has NO leaks. The trailer does not have a license plate, title is good but still in the previous owners name (signed over, of course).
How hard is it to fix leaks, anyway?
Well any input would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 
Well, aside from the obvious gross damage or holes, the transom should be looked at carefully, generally a tin boat will have a reinforced transom, but some of the older ones were reinforced with wood and since wood rots, the reinforcement would have to be replaced. Its not impossible though, just a bit of work. Are you planning on doing a mod to ths boat?
 
That must be one kick *** canoe.


Aside from leaks, if there is any corrosion or any reason to question the structural integrity of the boat, run.

If you plan to run and outboard, and the transom has any flex when you push on it, run.
 
His wife wants the canoe and yes, it has served it's purpose in a kick-*** kind of way!
He has upgraded to another boat, so this boat is just taking up space and is useless to him. Lucky me...I hope!
I most definately am planning a mod...soon as I get some pics, I'll show the boat as is.
The transom doesn't look bad from what I've seen in his pictures, but I'll check it.
Eventually, I'll put an outboard on it. Small water, trolling motor, and oars for now.
 
SmallieJonze said:
They're on my phone....for now.

Get the pic posted, that will help a lot with assessments/thoughts/recommendations from the members.

Where you at in northern Illinois???? There are several other members in N. IL, maybe someone close to you for some help and/or fishing together, share location info etc. Welcome to TinBoats =D>
 
SmallieJonze said:
Carpentersville, to be exact. About 1/4 mile from the Fox river.
Thanks for the welcome.

C'ville , pretty close! The Fox is okay up there but better further south you go. Decent from you to St. Charles, better when you get down below Batavia Dam to Montgomery Dam, Yorkville Dam, and south.... But, once you get your new boat, you'll have an easier time in the Fox than with the canoe :) no matter where - and further north of C'ville, near the Chain is supposed to be good too, although, I've never fished the Fox up there.

Anyway (sorry, I got off topic) get up the pics on the boat and see what responses you get.....
 
Fishin's great if you can get to the good spots where masses can't get to. Even the somewhat urban areas have given me quite a few 18" smallies. But, I've heard the same about Montgomery and Yorkville being super good as far as the Fox goes. I plan on getting out there this year.
Still...I can't seem to get the pics from my phone to my email :x
 
SmallieJonze said:
Carpentersville, to be exact. About 1/4 mile from the Fox river.
Thanks for the welcome.
I'm in Algonquin 2 blocks from the Fox.
 
I am in S.E. Wisconsin (Silver Lake - Kenosha County) about 1/4 mile from Fox River public boat launch a little north of Wimot WI. My river boat is a older early 70's 1448 Monark Mod-V Jon with a 15 HP Evinrude. Only leaks a little :LOL2: ... before, during (and eventually) after Pic's comming soon....

I have heard that a picture is worth a 1000 words but when dealing with the transom the only way to tell for sure is to physically inspect it. Like it has been said, try to move the transon in and out ...if it flex's the probable major transom replacement is in the future. Moving to check for flexing is easier if a motor is on the transom buy just tilting the motor up and lifting the prop area up and down. Another way would be to take a pointed object (nail or pocket knife) and poke into the wood on various places on the transom...if the wood seems hard all is good, soft wood indicates dry rot and potential problems. It is not safe to operate a larger outboard motor on a bad transom...

Another deal breaker (for me) might be if the boat did not have a clear title. If you plan on registering it in your name (required in Wisconsin if you run any kind of motor), it might be difficult without a original title for the boat..but if the title is good on this boat then the transom and any major leaks would be about it...minor leaks would be an relative easy fix or something I could live with... and would not be a deal breake on a boat I really liked...

"See ya's on the water".....
 
Ok here goes...
greenhornet2.jpg

greenhornet.jpg

greenhornet1.jpg


The green hornet...LOL!!!
 
I am not sure on years and manufacturers but most aluminum boats usually have some sort of foam in the seats to act as flotation to keep the boat afloat if it were to sink. This boat seems to have none. Could have been removed or even possible it never had any (?)..

Just an observation from the pictures....

See ya's on the water....
 
1966 Chrysler LoneStar 16' Skipper Mod-V?
Did some research on the boat and it was made with foam in the floor...not sure if it should have been in the seats but I can put some in if I have to.
 
No motor just yet...It's going to be self propelled or I'm just going to put a couple trolling motors on.
When, not if, but WHEN I do get a motor...25HP up to 40HP. Seems the old johnsons are good.
 
For me, a deal breaker (provided the hull is one I wanted), is a) whether or not I am capable of doing the repairs, and b) whether or not, after the repairs are done, I came out ahead of buying a rig without needing repairs.

Getting a boat that needs a little work, but after said work is done, you are still hundreds less than buying a comparable boat needing work is the way to go (I'm talking repairs, not mods - it is hard, if not impossible to get back money spent on mods, as we all have our own ideas of the perfect boat). If after I do the repairs, I am no better off than buying a different one, I pass. The key is to know what you are comfortable fixing, and the approximate time and cost incurred for said repair. Experience is the best teacher, so the first few boats will be hard to judge without tearing into it, but afterwards, 'tis no sweat.
 
I spent $500.00 on the canoe and probably $150.00 on accessories for it.
The green thing with trailer was selling for $700.00

I'm already expecting to put $ into it.
I have some materials and know people who can help/get me stuff cheap.

I think the experience may be worth the investment of labor, time, and money....
Especially if it turns out to be a good boat.
I've seen what you guys can do with your boats and if you can do it...I can do it.
 

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