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wasilvers

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I got my boat back from the welder and he had the front crank tied down differently that I would normally do it. Normally I just hook it up and crank it tight. His method ties the front down to the post. I like it.

Do you do it this way?

2010-04-17_tie_front.jpg


PS - the chain backup was removed for the picture.
 
No I wouldn't run the strap across anything the might do any damage to it
 
Totally agree with fish devil, I see abrasion developing real quick on the strap.
 
Maybe I will not do it that way. My transom strap keep the boat forward so it will not move back. I was thinking it would cause the strap to wear too, so I was going to round the edges off a bit before taking it out this year.

Thanks for the input!
 
Rounding the edges would only eliminate (minimize) the possibility of cutting the strap with a sharp corner. Rigged like the picture even with rounded edges would still cause the strap to wear in the spots it contacted the rounded edge. Eventually it would be possible to wear through or at least require a replacement strap. I would not use this method. I would also be curious as to why the welder did it this way...????
 
Outdoorsman said:
Rounding the edges would only eliminate (minimize) the possibility of cutting the strap with a sharp corner. Rigged like the picture even with rounded edges would still cause the strap to wear in the spots it contacted the rounded edge. Eventually it would be possible to wear through or at least require a replacement strap. I would not use this method. I would also be curious as to why the welder did it this way...????

When cranked like this, it does seem to fit the trailer much better. Before the eye pull the trailer up, off the front rest - so it rests on the rear of the boat and the eye, bouncing around the whole time. This way, it pulls down and tight on the trailer and doesn't seem to bounce at all. That may be why he did it that way. Said he straps always straps his boats that way.
 
He might, but that is going to start cutting your strap in short order.

I have a seperate rope for downard tension on the bow on my Polarkraft.
 
Just a thought...maybe a short peice os steel cable or even chain attached to the end of the stap (or rope) that would contact the edges instead of the strap in the picture..?? or even a pulley system attached to the traile tounge just under the area pictured that would allow downward pressure (pulling down) when cranking the winch...??? Just a couple of quick thoughts...
 
Hanr3 said:
Isnt the rubber stop supposed to be on top of the bow hock?
That would hold the front end down.


I agree with Hanr3; the bow stop should be above the bow eye. It looks like you would have to mod your winch post to get the height.

bassboy1 wrote an excellent article on setting up boat trailers.

https://www.tinboats.net/index.php/Articles/trailer-tips.html
 
Will ,Does the strap come off the topside of the crank wheel?Try turning the crank around and running the strap so it comes off the bottom of the wheel.That would pull the boat down in the front.Or maybe you can shorten the crank stand to get it to pull down.Just some thoughts.
 
If you want the down force mount a keel roller on top of the two bars the strap is around and run the strap under it, that would have the same effect, and not wear the strap near as bad. You could also lengthen the bow stop bracket then lower it and the crank so it pulls downward more.

Or just run a ratchet strap from the tungue tube up between the bow stop bars to the eye and snug it.
 
dougdad said:
If you want the down force mount a keel roller on top of the two bars the strap is around and run the strap under it, that would have the same effect, and not wear the strap near as bad. You could also lengthen the bow stop bracket then lower it and the crank so it pulls downward more.

Or just run a ratchet strap from the tungue tube up between the bow stop bars to the eye and snug it.

Good idea! Once the boat is done, I'll work on getting it snugged down.
 

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