Rust bubbles on car - how much to fix?

My 2004 van has some bubbles on the front of the hood and on the rear hatch - I live in Wisconsin, so I'm fairly certain they are rust bubbles. They weren't there last year when we bought it, but now I noticed them last week.

Has anyone got these fixed before or know about how much this will cost to fix? Am I looking at a whole vehicle strip and repaint?

Wasilvers....

My limited knowledge of these bubbles is that they are like a cancer to the metal. I've read a few explanations and from my research I've learned that some of this is caused from poor bare metal cleaning and primer problems. If it is indeed what I'm thinking of....it's hard to get rid of. You can repair it, but the areas effected and surrounding need to be cut out and new metal welded in replacement. Chances are, once these are fixed, other areas will pop up soon after. I actually had this happen to one of my cars back in the early 80s. My car was an import and I was told that this was the only way to fix it. I sold it before it got worse so I don't know the end result. My bubbles were at the front edge of my hood, and starting around the edges of the fender wells. Like I said though....this is limited experience and I'm in nw way an expert on this (or anything for that matter). Hope you can get it fixed easily and inexpensively. Good luck.

Has anyone got these fixed before or know about how much this will cost to fix? Am I looking at a whole vehicle strip and repaint?

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no way. find a professional touch up painter (any car dealership will have a feller who comes out to do it, ask for their business card). how big is the affected area? id guestamate a 1'x1' repair is going to cost around $100-150. prices are diff. depending on area too

dont go for the cheapest guy either

like fender said they could be caused from a bad prime at the factory or faulty metal, oxidation thats ate its way threw the paint ect ect

If they use salt or brine on the roads up there in the winter, then it's "cancer". If you bought the vehicle used, then it was most likely a cosmetic fix to get the vehicle sold and not done properly. The cut and replace the metal routine is the ONLY way to get that fixed permanently. And if that's not done right it will come back too.

Best to let a pro handle this, but make sure you use someone you trust and get a guarantee that it will not rust through within 6"-12" of the repaired area for at least 2 years. But, if you must get into it yourself, take a look here to see what you are in for before you start.

Have fun. :wink:

DocWatson said:

If they use salt or brine on the roads up there in the winter, then it's "cancer". If you bought the vehicle used, then it was most likely a cosmetic fix to get the vehicle sold and not done properly. The cut and replace the metal routine is the ONLY way to get that fixed permanently. And if that's not done right it will come back too.

Best to let a pro handle this, but make sure you use someone you trust and get a guarantee that it will not rust through within 6"-12" of the repaired area for at least 2 years. But, if you must get into it yourself, take a look here to see what you are in for before you start.

Have fun. :wink:

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No Way! Paint and Body work is not something I have ever tried, or really ever want to try. I'll work all day under the hood, you don't see my handiwork in there. The most visual stuff I've done is the carpeting in my boat - if it tells you anything, I chose black to help hide any imperfections :?

wasilvers said:

DocWatson said:

If they use salt or brine on the roads up there in the winter, then it's "cancer". If you bought the vehicle used, then it was most likely a cosmetic fix to get the vehicle sold and not done properly. The cut and replace the metal routine is the ONLY way to get that fixed permanently. And if that's not done right it will come back too.

Best to let a pro handle this, but make sure you use someone you trust and get a guarantee that it will not rust through within 6"-12" of the repaired area for at least 2 years. But, if you must get into it yourself, take a look here to see what you are in for before you start.

Have fun. :wink:

Click to expand...

No Way! Paint and Body work is not something I have ever tried, or really ever want to try. I'll work all day under the hood, you don't see my handiwork in there. The most visual stuff I've done is the carpeting in my boat - if it tells you anything, I chose black to help hide any imperfections :?

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Then, I guess you'd better carpet your van. :LOL2:

All newer cars,trucks, vans, ect. are galvanized. Odds are the van was wrecked and had a bad repair job done or had several scratchs in that area that were just painted over. Should be a stright forward repair, They will sand down the panels and repaint only them. And depending on parts they might not even do that, Maybe cheaper to put new parts on it.

What he said, sand and repaint. More than likely they will feather the paint so you cant tell a differnce in color. The feathering helps blend the paints.

Only touble is over time the old and new paint oxidize differently and the color changes differently. IF its feathered properly the oxidation wont be a problem.

fender66 said:

If it is indeed what I'm thinking of....it's hard to get rid of. You can repair it, but the areas effected and surrounding need to be cut out and new metal welded in replacement. Chances are, once these are fixed, other areas will pop up soon after.

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THIS^



We took the paint off a few spots on our durango, got rid of all the rust, bondoed it, and then sent it in for paint. Within 2 years, it was worse than before we started.