how to check old riveted alum. 12' for leaks?

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3shorts

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I don't know if it will leak.......it looks tight. Would I be foolish in putting several gallons of water to see if any leaks out?
That should show up any leaks, I think. If it does leak, what is a good way to seal them up?
 
That's how I have always checked for leaks. Put the plug in and run the garden hose to it. I'll take a sharpie and mark the leaks so I can seal the right spot. To save the water I'll back the boat up to my wife's garden and let it run out into it.
 
Put a shop light under the boat and look for light shining through the hull!

Easier to do and you don't have to get on the ground to check for leaks
 
Buddychrist said:
Put a shop light under the boat and look for light shining through the hull!

Easier to do and you don't have to get on the ground to check for leaks
That is after you turn the boat bottom up, right ??? :wink:
 
What about the actual repair of the aluminum leaks? Especially leaks not at rivets?

I have a similar problem. My best plan would be to find someone that can weld the aluminum, I think? But I have been reading about and seeing several aluminum repair "epoxies." Sounds good but makes me a little bit nervous.

Suggestions?
 
I once had a 12 footer (I have another 12 footer now, that doesn't leak a drop) that I filled with water, got underneath and circled 66 leaks with a pencil. I used a fiberglass repair kit, cut the cloth into one inch squares and sealed each and every leak. Never leaked again.

Ken
 
DocWatson said:
I don't work nights. :wink:

I don't either, I just waited for it to get dark and before I went to bed I just put a shop light under the hull and walked around the boat marking the pinholes

A lot less cleanup and easier than getting under the hull to check for water coming out
 
Buddychrist said:
DocWatson said:
I don't work nights. :wink:

I don't either, I just waited for it to get dark and before I went to bed I just put a shop light under the hull and walked around the boat marking the pinholes

A lot less cleanup and easier than getting under the hull to check for water coming out
I suppose marking the holes is a lot less cleanup than actually fixing them. :wink:

BTW - have you noticed the tongue-in-cheek nature of my responses ??
 
Lol yes marking the holes is clean! Drying the water out of your boat after you fill it up isn't!

I fixed mine with Alcoa and it's ready for the lake as soon as my parts from boats.net come in to fix the co-pilot, replace the impeller since im already there and a few other parts just as preventative maintenance
 
Buddychrist said:
Lol yes marking the holes is clean! Drying the water out of your boat after you fill it up isn't!

I fixed mine with Alcoa and it's ready for the lake as soon as my parts from boats.net come in to fix the co-pilot, replace the impeller since im already there and a few other parts just as preventative maintenance

Alcoa? meaning fixed w/ aluminum like welding? or is that a paste/patch?

My boat always seems to be wet on the inside after being in the river. I just pull the plugs, raise the front and let the 108 F air dry it out. As far replacing your co-pilot, I am technically the co-pilot as the boat belongs to "She Who MUST Be Obeyed!!!"
 
Alcoa is an aluminum gutter seal paste that has a large amount of aluminum powder in the compound so when you put it on it binds extremely tight and is made to last

I had to fix the co pilot so that I could adjust the tension on the steering so it isn't free loose turning when im trying to get on plane. The previous owner busted a bolt off the co pilot where the metal strip adjusts the tension so I had to spend a few hours on the drill press and then re thread the hole. It's fixed now since I got the parts in.

Today I got all of my parts in the mail!

I'm like a kid in a candy store! It's gonna take me a day or so to finish installing the new parts.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1343955516.826433.jpg
 
Buddychrist said:
Alcoa is an aluminum gutter seal paste that has a large amount of aluminum powder in the compound so when you put it on it binds extremely tight and is made to last


I will try the Alcoa. Lowes or Home Depot I assume? Thanks.
 
I can scrape off 5200 but it is still great stuff also. If I don't have Alcoa that's the next thing i'm going for.

It takes a razor blade and sandpaper to get Alcoa removed once it dries
 

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