Electrical wizards... I need some help

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jethro

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This isn't boating related, but it is another big tin!! I can't seem to get any electrical minded folks to get me answers on my snowmobile forum, so I'm seeing if you guys can help. I am a completely inept when it comes to electrical. My online searches don't seem to be coming up with anything.

My fishing addiction actually was started by ice fishing. I got addicted to ice fishing first and it actually got me into snowmobiles. Fast forward 20 years and I'm fully involved in snowmobile touring and fish a whole bunch using my sleds to get me and my gear out there.

Anyway... I have an enclosed trailer to carry my sleds and ice fishing gear. It's got interior LED lights that only work when the trailer is hooked to the vehicle and the headlights are on. I want to add a small battery just to run the two LED dome lights when it's not hooked to the vehicle. I would like it to work seamlessly if possible, I'd rather not add extra wall switches or have to hook up the battery each time I use the lights, but maybe that isn't possible. So here is what I have... this is the trailer:
i-Pzmn9Lh-L.jpg


The plug from the vehicle comes in and goes directly to a distribution panel. Then it goes to all the brake, turn, marker lights... also the trailer has electric brakes and there is a small box with a battery that is designed to operate the brakes in the event of a breakaway trailer. There is a switch on the tongue of the trailer that has a tether that will activate the brakes. The box that houses the battery also has a small inline charger. So here is a picture of the distribution panel:
i-9fgqx8x-L.jpg


This seems to be a wiring diagram on top of the breakaway battery, but interestingly doesn't show anything about the interior lights:
i-nnwzFH3-L.jpg


So in my fumbling around, I simply turned the wall switch on for the dome lights and was able to power them up by hooking up what appears to be the hot and the ground from the vehicle. It's a huge gauge white wire (gotta be ground) and what I assume is the hot from the vehicle (red wire). I am able to power the other lights and whatnot by keeping the negative on the white wire and moving the positive to the other terminals on the distribution panel. This is what I did temporarily to power the interior lights:
i-9fV2fw5-L.jpg

i-C9DNfK2-L.jpg


So I have no idea if this is a bad idea to have hooked up while the power is coming from the vehicle? I don't want to overpower the small battery, and I certainly don't want to compromise the breakaway battery. I also don't want to feed power back to my truck, I don't think. So that is a lot to digest... anyone have some insight for me? My online searches seem to make this simple, but I am nervous about burning something up.
 
Well, rather than messing with your already working system, would you consider just adding a light or two (or maybe LED strips) and running their wiring directly to your battery?

You can add a plastic box with a toggle switch anywhere that is convenient along the line. And, since your new lights should have a fuse/circuit breaker, you could put that inside of the small plastic box.

richg99
 
I have to agree with Rich. You know that the existing system works, and works fine, so I say don't mess with it, especially as it incorporates that electric brake backup system. Hook up a stand-alone lighting circuit with a separate switch and recharge that second battery as needed. A good battery might be one of those jump boxes that can be had relatively cheap. Has it's own charging circuit built right in.

Roger
 
Rich's idea is the simplest and most elegant, anything else will add several layers of complexity to your system. Your only problem will be keeping the remote battery charged.

You may have failed to find info on the web because you were trying to be too granular in your search.
This search criteria will get you some results.

"dual batteries in truck"

From there you'd have to sort out the differences between the remote battery in the trailer and what you found in the link(s) above. I'll wager in addition to any info you found you'd have to connect the remote battery directly to the truck battery, whatever wire is currently in place will likely be insufficient. The battery types (battery technology not necessarily Ah size) would likely have to be the same also.
 
gnappi said:
The battery types (battery technology not necessarily Ah size) would likely have to be the same also.

Yes, that is basically what I am finding my biggest problem to be. In my searches I have determined that what I am looking to do is basically wire the truck battery and the trailer battery in parallel, and to do so I would want them to be the same specs. Apparently I could do some fancy isolation circuit work but the easiest way is to just wire a separate switch between the battery and distribution panel. So I guess that's what I'll do.
 
richg99 said:
Remember that LED lights normally drew very little current. That will allow you more time between charges.

Yes, that's what I'm banking on. Plus I'll not use them much. It's pretty rare I'm using it when it's not connected to the truck, but occasionally I need the lights for like 2 minutes while I do something quick in the trailer.
 
Hmmm, if your needs are that low, then I'd go the REAL EASY route with something like this. LINK...

No wires, no nothing. I use something similar in every closet here, but my lights are also motion detecting auto-LED-lights. They last a year or more on the one battery and we go into our closets once or twice a day!

https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Powered-Closets-Cabinets-Counters/dp/B01GQFY3KU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538834916&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=led+stick+on+lights&psc=1

6183UNOVm9L._SX679_.jpg
 
costco used to have a box of 5 led remote controlled puck lights that ran of aa batteries.i installed them in one of my old truck campers and they were fantastic.just stuck them on with 2 side tape wherever they were needed.
 
bcbuoy....Exactly.

I was on a BBC (BassBoat Central ) site and a guy was going through "where to buy" special microswitches to add lighting in his rod lockers. Between the switches; lights and special wiring mess he would have to do, it was going to be a costly and time-consuming job.

...it was suggested that he use this type of stick-on/screw-on tap-on LED light.

Viola!
 
Yeah, I'm sure I am making it much harder than it needs to be. I really was hoping to use my existing switch by the entry door to turn them on but maybe I should accept a different, simpler solution.
 
Your boat. Your choice.

Sometimes, I've done things that didn't need to be done, just because I wanted to do it that way.

When my wife wants to paint a wall.. AGAIN, we both just say ..."It's your boat". Ha Ha
Rich
 

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