backwater
Member
Hello everyone,
Incredible and rather addictive site - absolutely essential for anyone undertaking a new build, and what a great bunch of folks! Many heartfelt thanks for providing the service.
Does the site server support coding for a WIKI? Have you guys considered this? The reason I ask is that while researching for my upcoming build, I found myself copying and pasting tons of valuable information into a single document. As this document grew, I began dividing the information into sub categories and I soon realized this condensed information might be valuable to others as well.
For example, here's a draft excerpt from the category Hull Repair, all extracted from the Boat Mods forum:
*******
Hull Cracks and Leak Repairs
What NOT to use:
bassboy1 wrote:
Bondo and fiberglass are out. I have pulled both from some past boat projects, and neither did much to fix the leak, and then made the small leak into a big ugly mess. Fiberglass and aluminum don't expand and contract at the same rate, so problems will be had there. Bondo doesn't like the marine environment, and thereby doesn't work.
Hot Welds
Spanky 543 wrote:
To fix your crack you need to weld it...but wait I’m not talking about mig or arch welding. It’s more like braising or soldering. I have a boat similar to yours. It’s a 1948 Arkansas Traveler. It had 3 cracks and holes at the transom corner. I used a product called Alumiweld. These are rods that you use like solder. Here is the website:
https://www.alumiweld.com/
There also is a different product called Durafix here is there website:
https://www.durafix.com/
I used Alumiweld because I was able to buy it at the local hardware store Harbor Freight Tools. You have to use the MAPP gas or hotter when using a torch to heat the aluminum. I tried for almost 2 weekends using just propane and it never worked. When I tried MAPP gas (the yellow bottle) it worked like a charm. JB Weld works well but it can crack sometimes
Cold welds (epoxy type products):
Jbweld and Waterweld are cold welds; i.e. Applied without heat. Here's the site:
https://www.jbweld.net/products/index.php
Although I haven't used it, Waterweld seems to be a good product to keep in your boat. According the the site, you can apply it to unprepared surfaces, even if it's under water. Good for emergency leaks.
Tips
Cracks:
fishingbuds wrote:
before repair drill a 1/16 to 1/8 hole at both ends of the crack so it won't split any further.
Holes under the waterline, such as old transducer mounting holes:
crazyeddie wrote:
...you could always stuff a machine screw through the hole and tighten a nut on it.
and bassboy 1 replied:
In my opinion, that is your best bet. Think about it, that is what your transducer has now. What difference would it make as far as whether or not a transducer is attached. Patch welding small holes in thin aluminum does not always yield the best results.
******
Obviously all of this information is contained within the forums and found easily by searching. But searching takes a lot of time and unless you're thorough, something might be missed. Occasional misinformation, although well intended, creeps in on any site so all techniques and recommendations should be researched in depth before adding to the WIKI or article.
I'll continue this document for myself, and if you think it would be worth posting (maybe as an article if a WIKI format isn't feasible) let me know. Like a boat mod, it would never really be finished - nor should it be - which is why a WIKI format, updateable and editable by registered members and/or administrators, would be a nice feature to have.
If this has been discussed before, my apologies - just send me to my room.
Fred
Incredible and rather addictive site - absolutely essential for anyone undertaking a new build, and what a great bunch of folks! Many heartfelt thanks for providing the service.
Does the site server support coding for a WIKI? Have you guys considered this? The reason I ask is that while researching for my upcoming build, I found myself copying and pasting tons of valuable information into a single document. As this document grew, I began dividing the information into sub categories and I soon realized this condensed information might be valuable to others as well.
For example, here's a draft excerpt from the category Hull Repair, all extracted from the Boat Mods forum:
*******
Hull Cracks and Leak Repairs
What NOT to use:
bassboy1 wrote:
Bondo and fiberglass are out. I have pulled both from some past boat projects, and neither did much to fix the leak, and then made the small leak into a big ugly mess. Fiberglass and aluminum don't expand and contract at the same rate, so problems will be had there. Bondo doesn't like the marine environment, and thereby doesn't work.
Hot Welds
Spanky 543 wrote:
To fix your crack you need to weld it...but wait I’m not talking about mig or arch welding. It’s more like braising or soldering. I have a boat similar to yours. It’s a 1948 Arkansas Traveler. It had 3 cracks and holes at the transom corner. I used a product called Alumiweld. These are rods that you use like solder. Here is the website:
https://www.alumiweld.com/
There also is a different product called Durafix here is there website:
https://www.durafix.com/
I used Alumiweld because I was able to buy it at the local hardware store Harbor Freight Tools. You have to use the MAPP gas or hotter when using a torch to heat the aluminum. I tried for almost 2 weekends using just propane and it never worked. When I tried MAPP gas (the yellow bottle) it worked like a charm. JB Weld works well but it can crack sometimes
Cold welds (epoxy type products):
Jbweld and Waterweld are cold welds; i.e. Applied without heat. Here's the site:
https://www.jbweld.net/products/index.php
Although I haven't used it, Waterweld seems to be a good product to keep in your boat. According the the site, you can apply it to unprepared surfaces, even if it's under water. Good for emergency leaks.
Tips
Cracks:
fishingbuds wrote:
before repair drill a 1/16 to 1/8 hole at both ends of the crack so it won't split any further.
Holes under the waterline, such as old transducer mounting holes:
crazyeddie wrote:
...you could always stuff a machine screw through the hole and tighten a nut on it.
and bassboy 1 replied:
In my opinion, that is your best bet. Think about it, that is what your transducer has now. What difference would it make as far as whether or not a transducer is attached. Patch welding small holes in thin aluminum does not always yield the best results.
******
Obviously all of this information is contained within the forums and found easily by searching. But searching takes a lot of time and unless you're thorough, something might be missed. Occasional misinformation, although well intended, creeps in on any site so all techniques and recommendations should be researched in depth before adding to the WIKI or article.
I'll continue this document for myself, and if you think it would be worth posting (maybe as an article if a WIKI format isn't feasible) let me know. Like a boat mod, it would never really be finished - nor should it be - which is why a WIKI format, updateable and editable by registered members and/or administrators, would be a nice feature to have.
If this has been discussed before, my apologies - just send me to my room.
Fred
