1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

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thedude
Posts: 338
Joined: 22 Feb 2018, 21:36

Re: 1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by thedude » 29 Oct 2019, 21:47

Nice progress. You could take the lower unit off if you need to replace the water pump and reduce some weight for moving it around. Watch your toes and fingers!

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mikejjmay
Posts: 54
Joined: 16 Mar 2018, 23:57
Location: MN/WI

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by mikejjmay » 03 Nov 2019, 15:57

Alright so motor is off. All in all - not too bad. The steering nut was stuck fast on the shaft (sounds like a common problem) but nothing some heat didnt solve.

Image1 by mikejjmay, on Flickr


This one shows a pretty good pic of the thick heavy aluminum they used along the transom top as a bandaid. I think I will re-use this (after re-doing the transom of course). I dont think anyone ever said i have TOO much outboard support. Will just need to add the correct thickness to the lower engine bolts as well so that the upper and lower is flush to the transom the same amount.

Image2 by mikejjmay, on Flickr


Cap off. The OEM transom cap is one of the "bend over" type, so it will need to be bent to remove the transom.
Image3 by mikejjmay, on Flickr


Ugh, the transom goes all the way under the top rail, which I spose will now need be be un-riveted and lifted at least in the rear to get enough clearance to remove the transom, and to get at the U bolts in there. In addition, trying to figure out how this splashwell is mounted is tricky

Image4 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Removed the front deck. Several generations of mouse nest and dead mice in there (skeletons all the way to very fresh). Smelled like a urinal full of mouse pee. All the pour in foam was fully saturated. All the drains along the keel from the front to the back were completely covered by the factory pour in expanding foam, so each section was essentially is own little watertight bulkhead. So the manufacturer foam plugged the manufacturer drain holes. Brilliant.

Image6 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Image7 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Image8 by mikejjmay, on Flickr
1988 Alumacraft Pro 170, work in progress!

Pector55
Posts: 47
Joined: 09 Sep 2019, 09:09

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by Pector55 » 04 Nov 2019, 13:41

My old Alumacraft only had 1 livewell and 2 holes.
Livewell intake pump (not counting as a hole) - was bottom center next to drain plug and ran a 3/4" hose to the livewell.
Larger overflow with 1.5" hose out to back, below transom.
Port side had smaller, 1/2" hole for the bilge.
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Vader809
Posts: 77
Joined: 15 Sep 2013, 11:54
Location: Ohio

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by Vader809 » 05 Nov 2019, 02:32

It's nice to have a place to work in out of the cold. I'm jealous :wink:. My boat is a Crestliner 16',without anything to attach the flooring to. Just about every video I watch, it's the same thing flooring to within a few inches of the gun wale. I like a lower level. Not a Bassboat. Good luck with your rehab.

mikejjmay
Posts: 54
Joined: 16 Mar 2018, 23:57
Location: MN/WI

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by mikejjmay » 05 Nov 2019, 09:41

Yea I am honestly unsure how I am going to do the layout. If i decide to remove the live wells, i could very easily expand the "lower" floor space in the midsection of the boat. This would be beneficial for family days on the water (4 year old and 1 year old). The live-wells have to come out either way to remove the soaked foam under them, so I spose that will have to wait and be a judgment call when that time comes.

They tucked everything under the rear deck under the splashwell (like the deck extends all the way to the transom and covers the bilge pump, etc) so to even get at those things you have to remove the entire rear casting deck, etc. Don't know who thought of this plan - i mean its not uncommon for a bilge pump to burn out. Cant imagine having to remove the whole deck and floor to replace. That will definitely be rectified, with a larger cutout near the transom for ease of access.
1988 Alumacraft Pro 170, work in progress!

mikejjmay
Posts: 54
Joined: 16 Mar 2018, 23:57
Location: MN/WI

1988 Alumacraft Pro17 - needs pretty much everything

Post by mikejjmay » 07 Nov 2019, 21:26

Ok so chipping away a bit every night. Just working the gut front to back, then the plan is to clean everything, then floor the front 75% (for something to walk on when doing interior work), then do transom, and then console/wiring.

Framing for the rear casting deck. This all has to come out, you can push through the wood that is the floor underneath it with your hand it is so rotted.

Image1 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

Main floor out. Foam is completely soaked and shot. All coming out, Lots of mice nests too

Image2 by mikejjmay, on Flickr

rea livewell cut out, and starting on removing the casting deck framing. This is all tied into the splashwell. This casting deck will not be going back in, and this framing will be cut back basically to the splashwell. 2 reasons - one this is a family boat too, so more of the lower floor space is valued for the young ones. Two, the front casting deck will be for casting with a bow mounted troller to control when casting. The rear will be used when trolling, so the casting deck is not needed. Will be alot of open floor space (all chairs will be in quick mount pedestal bases) when someone wants to fish back there. Should really open it up, and make access to the bilge area SOOOO much easier.

Image4 by mikejjmay, on Flickr
1988 Alumacraft Pro 170, work in progress!

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