transom material

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boohya1

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I am probably overthinking this but on my project I will need to replace the transom. I will be laminating two pieces of 3/4" material to get a 1-1/2" transom. Menards has Roseburg 4x8 marine plywood for $78. Its 7 ply fir. Or another local place I can get Hydrotek $155 or Okoume $197. Plan to run a 25-50 hp outboard.
 
Just my two cents - Given the options you've provided I'd put in the marine plywood, Hydrotek is great but expensive and Okoume plywood is soft which for me tends to mean that it is bendable... they actually promote that it is a bendable plywood. So again for me with your options I choosing the marine grade plywood and spar varnish for safe keeping.
 
... for me with your options I choose the marine grade plywood and epoxy coating for a LIFETIME of safe keeping.

Use epoxy from www.raka.com. There 1-1/2-quart kit (http://store.raka.com/11/2quartepoxykit.aspx) is only $39 and would do many boat transoms, so call Mike or Larry and see if they can sell you a kit 1/2 that size.

Just did one here, where all through-bolt holes were solid epoxy plugs, see here for a DIY how to with pictures: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47405
 
Go with marine grade plywood and treat it with "old timers" waterproofing until wont obsorb any more of the waterproofing solution. Wait 72 hours and then cover it with a couple coats of spar varvish. It will outlast you.
 
I'm getting ready to start a new project on a Polar Kraft jon I recently purchased. The transom does need attention. If I end up replacing the wood it'll be with rectangle tube aluminum.

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bplayer405 said:
I'm getting ready to start a new project on a Polar Kraft jon I recently purchased. The transom does need attention. If I end up replacing the wood it'll be with rectangle tube aluminum.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

If you use tube be cognizance of what wall thickness and how you will attach your motor. You could crush the tube.
 
boohya1 said:
bplayer405 said:
I'm getting ready to start a new project on a Polar Kraft jon I recently purchased. The transom does need attention. If I end up replacing the wood it'll be with rectangle tube aluminum.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

If you use tube be cognizance of what wall thickness and how you will attach your motor. You could crush the tube.
After pricing the aluminum it would take I opted for solid wood. Roughly 8x more...

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stomper said:
Go with marine grade plywood and treat it with "old timers" waterproofing until wont obsorb any more of the waterproofing solution. Wait 72 hours and then cover it with a couple coats of spar varvish. It will outlast you.

Not sure what this old timers water proofing is ?
 
Action said:
stomper said:
Go with marine grade plywood and treat it with "old timers" waterproofing until wont obsorb any more of the waterproofing solution. Wait 72 hours and then cover it with a couple coats of spar varvish. It will outlast you.

Not sure what this old timers water proofing is ?

I'm repeating what I've learned here on TB:

Old Timers Formula is 1/4 boiled linseed oil, 1/4 Spar varnish or Spar urethane, and 1/2 mineral spirits. Like Stomper says, put it on until it won't soak in anymore and then wipe off the puddles. After it dries, then two coats of the straight Spar.
 
I'm far from expert but would think an epoxy resin coating would have to be superior. And again, I've not used either for the purpose you need. So really just my "informed" judgement. Hopefully someone else will confirm.
 
Don’t use fiberglass resin and don’t confuse it w/ epoxy. Many here use the Old Timers formula, but I prefer the epoxy method.

Compared to the O-T method with multiple coats, the epoxy method is faster. I’d also say it’s more permanent, but have no empirical or comparison evidence to back that. However once your drill through such O-T treated wood to add any through-bolt fasteners, you just compromised the core as water can intrude via the bolt holes.

However, one thing you can do with epoxy that you cannot do with the Old Timers finish is you can drill a hole and fill it full of epoxy you so you have a permanent ‘plug’, once cured, drill thru it w/ a smaller drill for the bolt and your wood is still protected for a LIFETIME.

Examples of a transom re-do using epoxy & showing the bolt holes & ‘plug’ technique are here: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=47405
 
Another trick is to coat the hole ID with sealer such as 3M 4200, or in my case Locktite polyurethane roof sealant (much cheaper).
 
Action said:
Thanks....any idea how that compares to fiberglass resin?
Jack

Thanks I am trying the old timers water proofing....so far so good...
 

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