aluminum decks

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

scottbustech

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
Messages
47
Reaction score
0
anyone on here ever use all uluminum while converting a jon boat ive got three questions
one what thicknes did you use for the deck ?
two how far did you space the support structure under the deck ?
also what did you do too brace the areas youd mount a post style seat?
hope that makes sense too everyone
(P S bonus question where is a good source for reasonable priced aluminum)
 
I have plans to put on an all aluminum deck - I will welding and bracing with aluminum angle struts. As far as thickness - this is a question for BassBoy1
 
Alright. As far as thickness, I am planning on using .125 (1/8 inch) on mine. There really isn't a set dimension on how much spacing between the supports. The best thing I can tell you, is get a couple pieces of square tubing, or a couple boards, and lay them in a square on the ground. Put a piece of your deck material on top, and stand on it. If there is too much flex, make your square a bit smaller, or add a cross piece. For hatch lids, unless you have access to a good press break, you will need to have some structure underneath, not just a flat piece of aluminum covering a hole. I am probably using 1 x 1 square extrusions, just because I have a lot of them stored away over here. These extrusions will go around the edge of the hatch lid, and I may have a piece of 1 x 1 angle going across the middle, if the lid needs it for stiffness.

I think that covers your thickness and spacing question, lemme know if it doesn't.

Now, Esquired mentioned welding it, which is fine and dandy, provided you know someone with a good TIG welder, who is experienced in welding aluminum (it ain't easy). We only have a MIG welder, so it will do aluminum to a point, but certain alloys aren't going to weld as well. I know extrusions (which most angle and tubing is) don't weld well, so you are limited to using the top of the line equipment. Certain alloys of sheet will weld better than others. Anyone who is experienced with welding will have these numbers, but if you need, I can post them up. Seeing as I am 14, I am not yet allowed to use the MIG welder on my own, so I would be limiting myself to my dads free time, which is nonexistant. Therefore, I am just riveting my structure together, and riveting my deck to it. I could use true marine rivets, but seeing as I don't have to pierce the hull anywhere, I will more than likely just use poprivets.

Now, as far as your bracing, some people would just put a piece of 1/4 plate behind it, and supposedly it works, but I personally wouldn't do it. Of course, I also live under the idea of "if it is worth doing, it is worth overdoing." Now, what I am doing, is running a piece of 1 1/2 inch wide, .125 angle from my supports, at the width of my seat pedestal base mounting holes. Now, when I drill through, to mount them, I will have drilled through the deck, and some of my structure. Also, even though I would have 1/4 inch of deck, I would still put some stainless fender washers on the back.

Now, for the bonus question, most any metal we buy comes from the scrapyard. I don't know what kind of resources y'all have, but we have a real nice scrapyard. Not only do they take in scrap metal, but they also sell new metal, and fabricate as well. But, anything that is scrapped, that they feel they can resell, they will put behind the new metal building, and that is where most of what we buy is. 2 bucks a pound for aluminum, and I think it is 20 cents a pound for steel. Now, if we need something in a hurry, we will get new, but much of the time, we find full 20 foot sticks of steel in the used pile, and often it had already been primed, so it isn't even rusty. As far as aluminum, many factories cutoffs are plenty large enough for our purposes, so we may find a pallet full of 2 x 7 foot cutoffs. Now, if you don't have a good scrapyard, there should be a steel materials place, where you can buy only new metal. It will be more expensive, as you are buying new, but it may be your only option.
 
bassboy1 said:
Alright. As far as thickness, I am planning on using .125 (1/8 inch) on mine. There really isn't a set dimension on how much spacing between the supports. The best thing I can tell you, is get a couple pieces of square tubing, or a couple boards, and lay them in a square on the ground. Put a piece of your deck material on top, and stand on it. If there is too much flex, make your square a bit smaller, or add a cross piece. For hatch lids, unless you have access to a good press break, you will need to have some structure underneath, not just a flat piece of aluminum covering a hole. I am probably using 1 x 1 square extrusions, just because I have a lot of them stored away over here. These extrusions will go around the edge of the hatch lid, and I may have a piece of 1 x 1 angle going across the middle, if the lid needs it for stiffness.

I think that covers your thickness and spacing question, lemme know if it doesn't.

Now, Esquired mentioned welding it, which is fine and dandy, provided you know someone with a good TIG welder, who is experienced in welding aluminum (it ain't easy). We only have a MIG welder, so it will do aluminum to a point, but certain alloys aren't going to weld as well. I know extrusions (which most angle and tubing is) don't weld well, so you are limited to using the top of the line equipment. Certain alloys of sheet will weld better than others. Anyone who is experienced with welding will have these numbers, but if you need, I can post them up. Seeing as I am 14, I am not yet allowed to use the MIG welder on my own, so I would be limiting myself to my dads free time, which is nonexistant. Therefore, I am just riveting my structure together, and riveting my deck to it. I could use true marine rivets, but seeing as I don't have to pierce the hull anywhere, I will more than likely just use poprivets.

Now, as far as your bracing, some people would just put a piece of 1/4 plate behind it, and supposedly it works, but I personally wouldn't do it. Of course, I also live under the idea of "if it is worth doing, it is worth overdoing." Now, what I am doing, is running a piece of 1 1/2 inch wide, .125 angle from my supports, at the width of my seat pedestal base mounting holes. Now, when I drill through, to mount them, I will have drilled through the deck, and some of my structure. Also, even though I would have 1/4 inch of deck, I would still put some stainless fender washers on the back.

Now, for the bonus question, most any metal we buy comes from the scrapyard. I don't know what kind of resources y'all have, but we have a real nice scrapyard. Not only do they take in scrap metal, but they also sell new metal, and fabricate as well. But, anything that is scrapped, that they feel they can resell, they will put behind the new metal building, and that is where most of what we buy is. 2 bucks a pound for aluminum, and I think it is 20 cents a pound for steel. Now, if we need something in a hurry, we will get new, but much of the time, we find full 20 foot sticks of steel in the used pile, and often it had already been primed, so it isn't even rusty. As far as aluminum, many factories cutoffs are plenty large enough for our purposes, so we may find a pallet full of 2 x 7 foot cutoffs. Now, if you don't have a good scrapyard, there should be a steel materials place, where you can buy only new metal. It will be more expensive, as you are buying new, but it may be your only option.


Holy cow! I feel as though I'm "reading" an episode of Amercan Chopper! LOL! :mrgreen:
 
thanks bass boy youre one heck of a smart 14 yearold guess im a late bloomer but i do have access too a high end tig welder and a friend too operate it
 
ive had this idea and keep thinking it through im thinking about using my rear bench as an extension too my front deck and mounting my gas can under there and using the other half of the the new deck as storage pics might help
 

Attachments

  • stuff 002.jpg
    stuff 002.jpg
    103.3 KB · Views: 3,677
  • stuff 001.jpg
    stuff 001.jpg
    97.1 KB · Views: 3,677
scottbustech said:
but i do have access too a high end tig welder and a friend too operate it

All the better. If whoever is doing this has a bit of experience with it, it should go just perfect. He will probably be a little better than I was with which alloys weld better, and all that, so you should talk with him before buying the material, in case I have made a mistake.

I wish I had access to a nice TIG welder. My dad was big into woodworking for so many years, so he has high end everything for carpentry, and furniture making and all in between, but never had much metal working stuff. I was always more interested in metal working for some reason, so we started growing in that field a bit more, but it is going to be a good many years before we have the resources to get a good TIG welder.
 
Hey BassBoy - if your dad has a lathe you can use, make some cranksbaits! If you have a jig you can copy existing patterns.
 
esquired said:
Hey BassBoy - if your dad has a lathe you can use, make some cranksbaits! If you have a jig you can copy existing patterns.
I had never thought of that. We do have a wood lathe, course it is currently sitting under a shelf in the back, as it is one of the items that hasn't yet gotten installed after we last moved. I will keep that in mind, for when we do get it mounted. Thanks!

Until then though, I could probably free hand some - cut out the general shape on the scroll saw, and then work it on the sanding belt. I have always been the worlds worst artist, but recently I HAD to make something by that night, and I actually found that I am pretty good free handing that kinda thing, if I take the time to do it slowly and evenly.

I wish we had a metal lathe though. Dad had one many years back, and has regretted selling it since. There are certain parts I need to fabricate on motors from time to time.
 
I HAVE A 14' JON I PUT REMOVEABLE ALUM.FLOOR IN. I EXTENED THE DECK 4' WITH ALUM.I USE ALUM.ANGLE TO SURPORT THE SEAT I DID THIS ABOUT 5 YEARS AGO.IN THE FLOORS BETWEEN THE RIBS I PUT 2 STYROFOAM INSALATION TO KEEP THE FLOORS FROM SAGGING.WORK GREAT.
 

Latest posts

Top