14 ft Starcraft Seafarer

Hi,

New to this forum and new to owning an aluminum boat. Thsi site has been really helpful so far. I just purchased a 1989 Starcraft Seafarer and conducted my first water test. FAIL! Not miserably, but definitely did not pass the water test. It appears I'm missing 2 rivets which I plan to replace. Also at the bow, theres's a very small drip type leak that is exiting right at the bottom of that thick patch of aluminum that is riveted onto the boat. I will attach pictures later but my questions start here-

1. I was going to purchase a heavy duty rivet gun to replace the rivets. Usually they have 2 handles and a bottle attached to catch the Rivet. Should that do the trick? Any suggestions on whay type of Rivets to use?

2. I'd like to coat the rivet in some type of sealant before putting pressuring it into hull for added security. What do you recommend I use for a sealant. I heard 5200, but I've never worked with it before.

3. For that small drip type leak at the bow, I'm figuring that's happening because any one of the rivets on that piece of aluminum could be leaking and be dripping down to the lowest point. I was thinking I'd try to re-set the rivets there, and use some type of sealant on the bottom for extra protection. What do you think?

Thanks.

You could re-buck the rivets that are in place and loose, and maybe even use solids in place of the ones missing.

I coated all the seams and rivets inside my boat with Gluvit.

A quick fix to repair the missing rivets is use the same diameter nut and bolt and washer on each side and smear it with a water sealer (3M) tighten it down,been holding on my boat for years. In fact it works better than a rivet.

that's an idea. I'm ok just getting the rivet gun and rivets. they dont seem to cost a lot of money and I'd actually like to start getting acustomed to fixing the boat this way so I'm more confident with future rivet repairs. i don't know much about the 3M, but I will look into that to coat the rivet before setting it. If anyone else has a product they can recommend I'd appreciate the input.

thanks

This is Tinboats.net right? No one else has a sealant they would suggest to coat a rivet before setting it? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!

3M 5200 pretty much covers it. You know you want solid rivets right?

As a general sealer, Gluvit gets used pretty regularly, like I mentioned in my post above.

I didn't, but I know I should be using either aluminum or stainless. In terms of size rivet I dont know that either, but I figured I'd just buy an assorted kit so I can figure that out.

Thanks for your help everyone. I'll post some pics soon. After I seal the rivets I'd like to do some mod work, if possible.

You aren't talking the cheap guns at home depot or the like are you? Cause that's not what you need.

mmarz4evr said:

This is Tinboats.net right? No one else has a sealant they would suggest to coat a rivet before setting it? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!

Click to expand...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPfPryTRcY4

JD- I'm not sure if the cheap guns at home depot are what I'm considering. I don't know what they sell there. I know im not looking for the gun, but maybe something like this:

https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM4138108001P?prdNo=10&blockNo=10&blockType=G10

If you think I need something different please let me know so I don't purchase the wrong tool for this job. Thanks.

moberg12 said:

mmarz4evr said:

This is Tinboats.net right? No one else has a sealant they would suggest to coat a rivet before setting it? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!

Click to expand...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPfPryTRcY4

Click to expand...

Yea- i've seen this clip online. I'm figuring I can buy these parts separately and spend a lot less than 149.00 Seems a bit high, but it's conveinent that it's all put together for you and you can just store the whole kit away for when you need it next.

ok- so i think i've learned you can't set solid rivets without pneumatic air gun of some sort. Those are far from cheap. Does everyone on this site believe I have to use solid rivets? or can I go with semi-tubular or something else? I am going to coat the rivet in a sealant 5200 before I pressure it in, so i'm think that should do the trick- at least for a couple of years.

Your expertise is appreciated.

PS_ that nut and bolt technique keeps sounding better. lol

You can get solid, or "blind rivets" that you don't have to use a air gun on. If I had a link I'd post more info on them, but someone should see this and reply.

It's a pop rivet but the end is solid. Can be tough to use a regular pop rivet gun on I hear, but I have heard of some using them.

This is what I would use.

https://www.traxstech.com/Boat_Repair_Rivets.html

LonLB said:

You can get solid, or "blind rivets" that you don't have to use a air gun on. If I had a link I'd post more info on them, but someone should see this and reply.

It's a pop rivet but the end is solid. Can be tough to use a regular pop rivet gun on I hear, but I have heard of some using them.

Click to expand...

They call them closed end blind rivets? I was going to try and use a heavy duty rivet gun vs. the handheld type. I have no idea if it will be strong enough to make it pop. Hopeful

i think im going to try and spring for an air gun on ebay. my friend has a compressor. I know i'll also need a bucking bar. Do you have any idea what size Solid Rivet I should be looking for? What a pain in the ***. Can't find a kit. I'm loving owning an aluminum already

mmarz, take a picture of the rivets in your boat, and I'll try to help you figure out which size you need. A picture of the shop head (bucked side) and the dome head of the rivet. Rivets were my job for 3 years in the military. If your boat is like mine, you'll need size 4-3 rivets. blind rivets aren't what you need. As a general rule, the only reason to use blind rivets is if you cannot see or get to the side of the rivet to be bucked. They don't hold as tight over time as solid shank rivets. If you do not want to spring for a pnuematic rivet gun, you could go for Monel rivets, which are interchangable with aluminum. They are a softer metal that can be bucked with a hammer and bucking bar.

Hey Jeff,

Thanks very much. I will get a couple of pictures up tomorrow. What type of gun should i look for? I'd like to see if I can find a used one on ebay, then borrow my buddies compressor. I guess i should ask him what his psi is on the compressor too huh? It's only 2 rivets, but they are completely missing and i'd rather fix it right. Thanks. I'm sold on solid rivets being the solution since that's what they used on the boat originally.

JeffChastain said:

mmarz, take a picture of the rivets in your boat, and I'll try to help you figure out which size you need. A picture of the shop head (bucked side) and the dome head of the rivet. Rivets were my job for 3 years in the military. If your boat is like mine, you'll need size 4-3 rivets. blind rivets aren't what you need. As a general rule, the only reason to use blind rivets is if you cannot see or get to the side of the rivet to be bucked. They don't hold as tight over time as solid shank rivets. If you do not want to spring for a pnuematic rivet gun, you could go for Monel rivets, which are interchangable with aluminum. They are a softer metal that can be bucked with a hammer and bucking bar.

Click to expand...

This ok for a bucking bar? Some of these get really expensive on ebay. I was hoping to not spend 100.00 or more on a bucking bar!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rivet-Bucking-Bar-US-Industrial-Tool-Supply-Model-TP670-U-S-670-/220895353455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336e639a6f

JeffChastain said:

mmarz, take a picture of the rivets in your boat, and I'll try to help you figure out which size you need. A picture of the shop head (bucked side) and the dome head of the rivet. Rivets were my job for 3 years in the military. If your boat is like mine, you'll need size 4-3 rivets. blind rivets aren't what you need. As a general rule, the only reason to use blind rivets is if you cannot see or get to the side of the rivet to be bucked. They don't hold as tight over time as solid shank rivets. If you do not want to spring for a pnuematic rivet gun, you could go for Monel rivets, which are interchangable with aluminum. They are a softer metal that can be bucked with a hammer and bucking bar.

Click to expand...

Wish you lived closer, I'd drive over and have you install some rivets for me, and toss some beer or plastics your way.

I need to instal 8 rivets and want to do them right because they will be VERY cosmetic (right on the side of the boat)