BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' O/B Jet build

User avatar
Vermonster
Posts: 247
Joined: 04 Mar 2012, 10:03
8
Location: Smyrna, GA

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by Vermonster »

Those should work fine. I actually opted for Hex-head bolts because I have a tendency to strip the heads of screws. It's personal preference there, but if you do your transom slow and correctly (which I can tell by your work that you will), you won't have to worry about taking them out again.

Drilling holes in your boat gets easier each time you do it! It's really hard the first time you do it below the water line! :)
Vermonster
Click to see my build: 1972 Richline 14' Sportsman V-hull

User avatar
BigTerp
Donor
Posts: 2046
Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
7
Location: Falling Waters, WV

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by BigTerp »

Got the transom removed this evening. What a chore!! It was obvious I've never worked with rivets before. I center drilled the rivet heads and then popped them off with a flat head screwdriver and hammer. I then popped out the shank end of the rivet with a hammer and punch. The first few gave me quite the headache, but once I got going it wasn't all that bad. I'd give myself a 7 out of 10. I "over drilled" a few of the rivet holes which I don't think will be a problem. The worst one, I'll post a pic, is right at 1/4". So I should be able to just drill it out with a 1/4" bit and replace with a 1/4" rivet. Simple as that, right??? I'm more concerned about some of the holes I marred up while using the screwdriver to pop off the rivet heads. I made a few gouges around some of the rivet holes doing this. I'm guessing I can sand this smooth and it shouldn't be a problem?? I also managed to get my left middle finger in between the boat hull and hammer. #-o How does that happen?? Hurt like hell, but all part of the game I guess.

After removal
Image

Fore side of the transom wood
Image

Aft side of the transom wood
Image

This was my worst drill hole. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get it to measure over 1/4". Drill it out to 1/4" and replace with a 1/4" rivet??
Image

Now I have a Sunday boat to match my Sunday underwear......nice and holy!!! :roflmao:
Image
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774

User avatar
Vermonster
Posts: 247
Joined: 04 Mar 2012, 10:03
8
Location: Smyrna, GA

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by Vermonster »

You can always use a SS Bolt and Nut coated with 3M 5200 for those larger holes. Keep your old transom pieces and use them for templates to cut your new ones! Try to clean all that corrosion and white off as well before you install.
Vermonster
Click to see my build: 1972 Richline 14' Sportsman V-hull

User avatar
BigTerp
Donor
Posts: 2046
Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
7
Location: Falling Waters, WV

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by BigTerp »

Vermonster wrote:You can always use a SS Bolt and Nut coated with 3M 5200 for those larger holes. Keep your old transom pieces and use them for templates to cut your new ones! Try to clean all that corrosion and white off as well before you install.
Thanks Vermonster!! The hole in the picture is from the bottom of the hull. It is from one of the rivets that held in the transom brace. Wouldn't a solid rivet sized to the hole be better than a SS nut and bolt??
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774

User avatar
BigTerp
Donor
Posts: 2046
Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
7
Location: Falling Waters, WV

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by BigTerp »

Here is a few examples of how I marred up some of the holes while using a flathead screwdriver to pop the rivet heads off. Maybe this wasn't the best way to remove them?? These two are the worst and were some of the first ones I did. Once I got the hang of it, the rivets came off much cleaner and easier. Whats the best way to deal with thse holes? Should I just sand/de-bur the holes and be good to go?

Image

Image
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774

User avatar
TNtroller
Posts: 1145
Joined: 26 Oct 2010, 20:17
9
Location: E TN

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by TNtroller »

looks like a good deal, on the transom plug, I would just buy a new one for a couple bucks, and test it to see if it will seal up good before you do anything to the actual drain hole in the hull. There is a reason for the drain plug to have rubber on it, change its shape to fit the imperfections of the metal hole.

User avatar
BigTerp
Donor
Posts: 2046
Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
7
Location: Falling Waters, WV

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by BigTerp »

TNtroller wrote:looks like a good deal, on the transom plug, I would just buy a new one for a couple bucks, and test it to see if it will seal up good before you do anything to the actual drain hole in the hull. There is a reason for the drain plug to have rubber on it, change its shape to fit the imperfections of the metal hole.
Thanks man. Any links to were I can find a replacement??
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774

User avatar
Vermonster
Posts: 247
Joined: 04 Mar 2012, 10:03
8
Location: Smyrna, GA

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by Vermonster »

BigTerp wrote: Thanks man. Any links to were I can find a replacement??
Walmart should carry plugs in the boating section. They usually have 2 sizes, and they have an adjustable wingnut type that you can tighten to make the plug a bit larger when you engage it.

As for the SS Bolt versus the Rivet below the waterline, if the hole is too large for the rivet it's fine to use the SS Bolt and seal it up with 3m 5200. The plan would be you're not going to be removing it anytime soon. If you can get a rivet to fit flush go with that (remember to seal them though).

Sand the dings up a bit and clean the aluminum really well before you apply the 5200 and the rivets - you'll get much better adhesion.
Vermonster
Click to see my build: 1972 Richline 14' Sportsman V-hull

User avatar
BigTerp
Donor
Posts: 2046
Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
7
Location: Falling Waters, WV

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by BigTerp »

Vermonster wrote: Walmart should carry plugs in the boating section. They usually have 2 sizes, and they have an adjustable wingnut type that you can tighten to make the plug a bit larger when you engage it.

As for the SS Bolt versus the Rivet below the waterline, if the hole is too large for the rivet it's fine to use the SS Bolt and seal it up with 3m 5200. The plan would be you're not going to be removing it anytime soon. If you can get a rivet to fit flush go with that (remember to seal them though).

Sand the dings up a bit and clean the aluminum really well before you apply the 5200 and the rivets - you'll get much better adhesion.
Thanks for the tips. I'm going to try and drill out the larger holes to 1/4" and see if I can get a 1/4" rivet to fit. I have a few more rivets to remove this evening then I'll drill out the holes that need it and sand the ones that are dinged up. I'll try to get everything pressure washed and cleaned up good. Any need to primer the bare aluminum around the old rivet holes that I'll be sanding, or the transom portion that was under the old wood?

Need to start getting materials together to replace the transom wood. I plan to use exopy resin to seal the new wood. Depending on the width of wood I'll need, I'll most likley glue 2 pieces of exterior grade plywood together and coat with the resin. I've read were other guys drill the transom holes bigger than needed, then fill the holes with the epoxy resin and redrill the holes to approriate size. Is this the right way to do it, or am I way off base here?
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774

User avatar
Vermonster
Posts: 247
Joined: 04 Mar 2012, 10:03
8
Location: Smyrna, GA

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by Vermonster »

BigTerp wrote:
Thanks for the tips. I'm going to try and drill out the larger holes to 1/4" and see if I can get a 1/4" rivet to fit. I have a few more rivets to remove this evening then I'll drill out the holes that need it and sand the ones that are dinged up. I'll try to get everything pressure washed and cleaned up good. Any need to primer the bare aluminum around the old rivet holes that I'll be sanding, or the transom portion that was under the old wood?

Need to start getting materials together to replace the transom wood. I plan to use exopy resin to seal the new wood. Depending on the width of wood I'll need, I'll most likley glue 2 pieces of exterior grade plywood together and coat with the resin. I've read were other guys drill the transom holes bigger than needed, then fill the holes with the epoxy resin and redrill the holes to approriate size. Is this the right way to do it, or am I way off base here?
Prime the holes after they're plugged with the rivets. The resin will be fine for in-between the wood and the hull but a coat of primer would be fine. I think the resin provides water protection, but not UV, so you may want to throw a coat of paint on the resin afterwards (somebody should be able to confirm that). I think over-drilling the holes and filling with resin will be overkill to be honest - using the 5200 on your hardware should be sufficient. A transom with resin should last forever.

Drill the holes
Clean/sand them
Seal your hardware with 5200 (bolts and rivets) - this should be fine for water-proofing the holes in the transom.
prime bare aluminum with self etching primer
paint (if you're going to)
Vermonster
Click to see my build: 1972 Richline 14' Sportsman V-hull

User avatar
BigTerp
Donor
Posts: 2046
Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
7
Location: Falling Waters, WV

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by BigTerp »

Thanks Vermonster, sounds like a plan.

Going to get some work done on her this weekend finishing up some rivet removal, some cleaning and sanding/priming were needed. Then it will be time to gather everything I need to put her back together and get the new transom in place.
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774

User avatar
BigTerp
Donor
Posts: 2046
Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
7
Location: Falling Waters, WV

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by BigTerp »

Got a little bit done this past weekend. Removed the rest of the rivets from the transom, sanded each rivet hole on the outside of the hull, drilled out any "whallowed" out holes to 1/4", wire brushed then sanded entire transom area to remove oxidation/corrosion, primed the entire transom area, shop vac'd and pressure washed (again) the inside of the hull. Seems like I finllay got all the gunk out of her.

Obviously the old transom board was a bit leaky. After removing all the oxidation/corrosion with a wire brush and sanding, you could see how pitted the aluminum behind the old transom board was. I sanded it down from 60 grit to 220 grit then pressure washed it, cleaned with acetone and applied 3 coats of self-etching primer.
Image

A closer look at the pitting
Image

After sanding, cleaning and primer. I'll probably eventually hit the floor of the hull with some sand paper and primer as well.
Image

This is one of the holes that I marred up pretty good with the screwdriver while removing rivets and whallowed out the hole a bit. I drilled it out to 1/4". I then sanded it down until it was deburred and smooth to the touch. Ended up doing this to about 7 or so holes. I think it turned out pretty good, expecially when you compare it to the before picture.
Image

Before
Image

Transom holes deburred, drilled out, sanded and cleaned. Ready for some fresh new rivets and stainless hardware.
Image

It seems like I have done a good bit of work already, but not getting very far along. I know this part is some of the more tedious work I'll be doing, so slow progress should be expected. Once I get the new transom back in place I can start planning out and working on the rest of the boat.

Upcoming plans include:
-Ordering rivets, air hammer and stainless hardware for transom replacement
-Ordering epoxy resin
-Pick up wood for transom and getting it cut, glued and drilled out
-Cleaning up, sanding and primer for all peices of the transom bracing
-Cleaning up , snading and primer for hull floor from back bench seat to transom
-Reassemble transom

NEVER ENDING............
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774

User avatar
panFried
Posts: 656
Joined: 15 Jul 2012, 19:53
7
Location: Eureka, MO

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by panFried »

Looking good Big Terp. I'm about 2 steps behind you. I bought all my supplies this weekend, except wood and I'm gonna start on the steps you just completed. What type of wood are you using?

User avatar
BigTerp
Donor
Posts: 2046
Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
7
Location: Falling Waters, WV

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by BigTerp »

panFried wrote:Looking good Big Terp. I'm about 2 steps behind you. I bought all my supplies this weekend, except wood and I'm gonna start on the steps you just completed. What type of wood are you using?
I've been keeping my eye on your build. Looking good!!

I've been getting alittle behind. I was sick all last week, and our AC/Heat Pump took a crap last weekend. So I've been holding off on ordering anything for the boat until we get the AC situation squared away. Ended up being a bad control board on the inside unit. Hopefully that will be getting fixed this week, and I can then get back to the boat.

I did do a little work yesterday. I cleaned up the bilge area and sanded out all the corrosion. Hit it with a few coats of self-ethcing primer. Also worked on cleaning up all the transom bracing. Need to finish getting those sanded up and rivet ends popped out. They seem to be stuck in the bracing worse than they were the hull.

So I haven't ordered any of what I need to finish the transom. But I plan to use exterior grade, or I guess the ABX plywood that either Home Depot or Lowes carries. My transom is 1-1/4" wide. Kind of an odd number it seems. I haven't been out to either place to see what brand of plywood or what thickness they carry. But I'm hoping to find some that has the right thickness so I can glue 2 pieces together to make the 1-1/4" I need.
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774

DaveInGA
Posts: 636
Joined: 23 Dec 2007, 01:25
12
Location: Jefferson, GA
Contact:

Tracker Sportsman 16'

Post by DaveInGA »

If you go to a builder's supply or Ace Hardware that has lumber, you should be able to get plywood made in USA with USA sizes. A single sheet of 5/8" cut up and doubled will make that transom thickness you need nicely and will likely only cost around $20.00 or so. A few phone calls around your area to various suppliers (Not Home Depot or Lowe's) will likely locate the needed plywood.

You might want to consider applying Goop Coat-it on the corrosion on your hull where the transom was. It's only $20.00 for a quart of Coat-it at Academy Sports, a very good value. Looking at what the product contains, it is an epoxy and appears to be ideal to use not only to prevent leaks, but as transom coating as well. A quart should coat your transom wood with enough left over to cover the pitted areas. Here's a link:

https://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... It&Ntk=All
Dave In Georgia
My Bass Tracker Tournament V-17 Restoration/Mod: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=15343

Post Reply