1986 16' Grumman V-Hull Mod/Restore | DUCK BOAT *PIC HEAVY*

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hercdrvrwo
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1986 16' Grumman V-Hull Mod/Restore | DUCK BOAT *PIC HEAVY*

Post by hercdrvrwo »

Hello Everyone! This is my third attempt at posting here! I have been a long time fan of this site and never thought I would be here! I always thought all of this stuff would be out of my league but here I am! Thanks for everyone's posts...truly an inspiration! Such an inspiration that, as is the case with several recent posts, I decided this past weekend to destroy my boat and strip it down so I can build it back up the way I want it! But First...

Me: I am a C-130 Pilot Stationed in Fayetteville, NC. I have ~ 12 yrs in and only 8 more to go! I have a wife & two boys 6 & 8! They are growing up fast and helped motivate me to mod my "duck" boat into a more versatile duck/fishing boat. This is the first year I will take my oldest out on a full hunt on the boat and also the first summer that he has been enjoying lure fishing for bass! As you will see a lot of my comments belong more on duckhunting chat rather than here...but like I said, it is this forum that has inspired me!

My Boat: It is a 1986 Grumman V-Hull, I purchased it two years ago after a deployment. There wasn't a whole lot to do on the boat as my intention was to only hunt out of it and put it aside the rest of the year. It was brown with tan grass stencil painted in blocks....HIDEOUS!! The first thing I did was to paint the boat like this: This was what I used to help guide me, I used PVC pipe like the guy in the video because of my gunnel and chine. Once I got the ugly off of her I decided to build a scissor blind onto the boat based on this: https://www.duckhuntingchat.com/forum/vi ... 2&t=124449, mine didn't turn out this this...but is was awesome none the less! So it brings me to today -- before I had never cared about the boat other than, can it get me to the ducks...now--I got other plans! Finally, the boat had a dropped in floor using pressure treated lumber and black carpet. It also had a small deck that sat ~ 12 inches off the front seat and on top of the gunnel at the bow. This guy had a foot controlled trolling motor mounted to the top, which I never used unless I was on an electric only lake. I hated the damn thing and it just got in the way. It also had a side console that was doing nothing but holding my anchor/nav light switches.

SOooooo.... I ripped it all out--every last thing...right now she's sitting in the garage ready to be rebuilt. See my Pictures below to follow along, and then I will make more posts with better details...but I am a monkey and pictures are worth 1000 words!!!

Enjoy
Herc
Attachments
Side profile of the boat, can you see the "pineapples?"
Side profile of the boat, can you see the "pineapples?"
Here's a pic of the motor a 30 HP Electric start! She runs great--at least what I need her for ~ 10 min boat ride to hunt area
Here's a pic of the motor a 30 HP Electric start! She runs great--at least what I need her for ~ 10 min boat ride to hunt area
You can see the trolling motor being used by hand....thats how much it sucks! I kept it on in case my motor quit! Another Shot of the bow section.
You can see the trolling motor being used by hand....thats how much it sucks! I kept it on in case my motor quit! Another Shot of the bow section.
Tigger along for the ride...you can see the consol in this pic...just gets in the way!
Tigger along for the ride...you can see the consol in this pic...just gets in the way!
Here is a picture of the inside of the blind, you can see how cramped it is...the floors came too high and our legs were too squatty with the distance between the seats...the bow area was a complete waste and the trolling motor just gets in the way! Still -- what an office!
Here is a picture of the inside of the blind, you can see how cramped it is...the floors came too high and our legs were too squatty with the distance between the seats...the bow area was a complete waste and the trolling motor just gets in the way! Still -- what an office!
Here is another way I cover up the boat and an example of where I will take her!
Here is another way I cover up the boat and an example of where I will take her!
A pic of the blind I built!
A pic of the blind I built!
Picture with the boat in "blind mode...that day was a bust -- the water was low!
Picture with the boat in "blind mode...that day was a bust -- the water was low!
Here is where the previous owner bolted down a piece of treated wood with carpet and where the seat bolts were in contact with bare aluminum....lots of damage here...you can see the pitting, I sanded this down and sealed it with GLUVIT.
Here is where the previous owner bolted down a piece of treated wood with carpet and where the seat bolts were in contact with bare aluminum....lots of damage here...you can see the pitting, I sanded this down and sealed it with GLUVIT.
Here you can see just how corrosive treated wood and crappy screws are. This one is going to take a while to fix...its all the way around the gunnel where the motor deck sat.
Here you can see just how corrosive treated wood and crappy screws are. This one is going to take a while to fix...its all the way around the gunnel where the motor deck sat.
Here is how it cleaned up with heavy grit sandpaper and elbow grease. You can see the pitting good in this picture.
Here is how it cleaned up with heavy grit sandpaper and elbow grease. You can see the pitting good in this picture.
You can see just how much of the boat that top deck covered here.
You can see just how much of the boat that top deck covered here.
Here is a picture of the console I pulled out...I don't know what to do with it...any ideas? I thought about selling it so I can put the money somewhere else.
Here is a picture of the console I pulled out...I don't know what to do with it...any ideas? I thought about selling it so I can put the money somewhere else.
So this is the idea visualized...removed the second seat and then add gun boxes down the side.
So this is the idea visualized...removed the second seat and then add gun boxes down the side.
So after pealing back the layers on the onion, I could see why the previous guy put a drop floor in...the bottom had painted bed liner....THIS IS WHAT IT WILL LOOK LIKE IF YOU DO THIS!!! It was very hard to get anything off, so after hours I gave up and got the bulk of it. It just wasn't worth it to me, so I just decided to inspect what I had and move on! Oh BTW -- I had purchased a steel wire brush, but then before I executed my plan, I read several posts on here about brass, so I put the project on hold until I could find one/order it online!
So after pealing back the layers on the onion, I could see why the previous guy put a drop floor in...the bottom had painted bed liner....THIS IS WHAT IT WILL LOOK LIKE IF YOU DO THIS!!! It was very hard to get anything off, so after hours I gave up and got the bulk of it. It just wasn't worth it to me, so I just decided to inspect what I had and move on! Oh BTW -- I had purchased a steel wire brush, but then before I executed my plan, I read several posts on here about brass, so I put the project on hold until I could find one/order it online!
NO real issues in the bow except for what looked like a hole...but it is just where the seam is pressing up because that is where the boat sits on the trailer...I am thinking this guy didn't use a boat ramp sometimes before me and jammed the boat onto the trailer!
NO real issues in the bow except for what looked like a hole...but it is just where the seam is pressing up because that is where the boat sits on the trailer...I am thinking this guy didn't use a boat ramp sometimes before me and jammed the boat onto the trailer!
So after trying to wire brush/clean the floor as best I could, I noticed these cracks...look closely, there are 4 of them, they happen to be right where the boat sits on the trailer...THIS is why you should give as much surface area as possible for the bunks. I thought about having these welded...but I think after research I am OK!
So after trying to wire brush/clean the floor as best I could, I noticed these cracks...look closely, there are 4 of them, they happen to be right where the boat sits on the trailer...THIS is why you should give as much surface area as possible for the bunks. I thought about having these welded...but I think after research I am OK!
Here is what I used...I followed a lot of advise here and cut my bristles down. I didn't skimp -- it cost me $41 at AK MCCALLUM here in Fayetteville. The boat never leaked really, but since I am going to cover up most of the hull I figured this was a good precaution!
Here is what I used...I followed a lot of advise here and cut my bristles down. I didn't skimp -- it cost me $41 at AK MCCALLUM here in Fayetteville. The boat never leaked really, but since I am going to cover up most of the hull I figured this was a good precaution!
This was an easy Process...I started in the bow and worked my way aft!
This was an easy Process...I started in the bow and worked my way aft!
Here are the cracks and all rivets/joints covered in GLUVIT -- I took one small can to cover only seams, Rivets and seat issue. This stuff dries solid! I am very impressed with the product, you can definitely see where it worked its way into the cracks!
Here are the cracks and all rivets/joints covered in GLUVIT -- I took one small can to cover only seams, Rivets and seat issue. This stuff dries solid! I am very impressed with the product, you can definitely see where it worked its way into the cracks!
Here is the transom, You can see the outline of the fishing rod holders...most screws were rusted...the board itself isn't in the greatest shape. I think I am going to rip it out and put a new one in. This is how not to do it. I have read many threads on here on how to tackle this project, now I just have to do it. I think it will be the hardest thing getting this out of here based on how much 3M 5200 I see on the board itself. This is a great example of what not to do as well...not a single stainless bolt/screw...they just screwed anything to this board and now its falling a part. -- I want this boat to last now -- something the boys can have when they're older! Any advise here is greatly appreciated (I have google'd/youtube'd & tinboat'd the crap out of it!)
Here is the transom, You can see the outline of the fishing rod holders...most screws were rusted...the board itself isn't in the greatest shape. I think I am going to rip it out and put a new one in. This is how not to do it. I have read many threads on here on how to tackle this project, now I just have to do it. I think it will be the hardest thing getting this out of here based on how much 3M 5200 I see on the board itself. This is a great example of what not to do as well...not a single stainless bolt/screw...they just screwed anything to this board and now its falling a part. -- I want this boat to last now -- something the boys can have when they're older! Any advise here is greatly appreciated (I have google'd/youtube'd & tinboat'd the crap out of it!)
Last edited by hercdrvrwo on 25 Jul 2013, 22:17, edited 1 time in total.
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hercdrvrwo
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1986 16' Grumman V-Hull Mod | Restore **PIC HEAVY**

Post by hercdrvrwo »

SO here is my prioritized task list:

Leak Test 1st then:

1. Replace Transom
2. Run wires to general area where switch box/bus bars will be before laying down floor
3. Remove boat from trailer and paint/seal trailer
a. Add boat buckles
b. Add platform to tongue of trailer for ramp load/unload
c. Replace bearings & Bearing Buddies.
d. put on guides
4. Remove brackets on side where seat used to be. -- I know this will reduce strength in the hull -- but I have a plan which I will explain later in detail when I get to it.
5. Lay floor - basis of everything else -- I will cut the MDO and then use the Epoxy in 4 coats to seal it
a. I am going to add stainless steel drains for the floor for water to drain into the bilge...as you can see in my pictures, I get in and out of the boat a lot with a lot of water coming in.
6. Build front Decks
7. Build Gun boxes
8. Build Back deck
9. Seal everything with Epoxy Sealer
10. Install everything
11. Prime the entire boat
12. Paint the entire boat with Parker's Paint - https://www.cabelas.com/product/Parker-D ... 734054.uts
13. Finish Electrical -- I will add in some lights on the bow and some red lights in the hold & cockpit for night time illum. Also install a new fish finder/sonar/GPS -- need something to help nbavigate in the fog.
14. Add hatch covers
15. Lay Hydro Turf Duk Grass Cameaux - https://www.gatortraxboats.com/p-160-hydroturf.aspx


Materials

MDO - All decking etc I chose this based on talking to a lot of boat builders...they use the heck out of this for structure and professional Marine Ply for mill work. I liked how light it was and how it is made! It is pricy I paid $72 locally here for per sheet of 3/4 and $54 for 1/2.
Cherry 2x2 for framing -- thought about aluminum but just too costly and I think I can seal it enought not to worry -- plus I have a whole bunch of this from a side job I did--its FREE!
Stainless Steel Screws - expensive!!!
Clark Craft Epoxy - https://www.clarkcraft.com/epoxyinformation.php3
#12 (#3 Marine) Wire - I found a spool at Gander that they used as a spindal to sell in custom lengths...they had it on the clearance rack for $30 -- retailed for $113 Great DEAL! I don't think the person that marked it knew what they were doing.
I got a whole bunch of those foam blocks that are used at lowes/tracker Supply to prop up the tounges on trailers they are selling. I got them for free --just ask, the kids don't know what they are throwing away....I am going to use the blocks to add the foam from what I took out, and use it to shape the gun holders (I will explain this idea later)
PVC Conduit 3/4
3/4 Flexible Conduit

I will keep you updated...

Cheers
Herc
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wwcenturion
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Post by wwcenturion »

Looks like a solid plan. On my second build I will do things this way.

Looking forward to watching this project.

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hercdrvrwo
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Post by hercdrvrwo »

Thanks man -- I checked your site out! Looks like you're moving fast! Did you start the day you first posted? What was your timeline like? I hope to have mine done by the first of August -- probably ambitious since I am at work 12 hrs a day and fly quite a bit! Lets stay in touch...

Cheers
Herc
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BigTerp
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Post by BigTerp »

Looks like a good plan to me. Keep us updated!!

I'm working my own duck hunting/fishing rig. Been a slow process, but I'm finally getting into the meat of the build. My target date is the same as yours, August 1st.
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=26774

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hercdrvrwo
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Post by hercdrvrwo »

Thanks man! Been watching your boat a while too! Can't wait to get there!! I like the attention to detail you had in filling the holes. Man -- I don't want to get that detailed but when I read posts and I finally get a good look at the damage etc...I end up getting it fixed up--ALL ADDING TO MY TIME!!

Cheers
Herc
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Post by BigTerp »

hercdrvrwo » 58 minutes ago wrote:Thanks man! Been watching your boat a while too! Can't wait to get there!! I like the attention to detail you had in filling the holes. Man -- I don't want to get that detailed but when I read posts and I finally get a good look at the damage etc...I end up getting it fixed up--ALL ADDING TO MY TIME!!

Cheers
Herc
Yeah, it's hard not to get obsessive with things like this. My buddy was giving me hell when I told him I'm going to paint my tempress hatches to match the boat. I figure if I'm investing this much money and time into a project, I might as well make it as nice as possible. It definitely adds to the timeline. I'd like to have mine done in time to do some fishing, but as long as it's done by early duck and goose seasons I'll be happy.
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=26774

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Post by bigwave »

First off I would like to thank you for your service. :WELCOME: Looks like you have a very solid plan......I can not wait to see your vision on the water waiting on the quackers. I too will be watching what you do to this little tinboat. :beer:
1984 14 Deep Fisherman Mirrorcraft
http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23315

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hercdrvrwo
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Post by hercdrvrwo »

bigwave » 06 Jun 2013, 21:03 wrote:First off I would like to thank you for your service. :WELCOME: Looks like you have a very solid plan......I can not wait to see your vision on the water waiting on the quackers. I too will be watching what you do to this little tinboat. :beer:

Thanks Bigwave! 'preciate that! You and me both brother--feeling the pressure. We have a large exercise about to happen on post in about two weeks for two weeks -- I will get maybe 4 hrs of sleep if that a night -- no time for the boat...So there goes June -- then July is filling up quick! Gotta get this thing done! Nice looking Fish BTW!

Cheers
Herc
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hercdrvrwo
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Post by hercdrvrwo »

OK Update --

Pulled the Transom off tonight--took a lot longer than I expected but still wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. First time working on one of these things. Just ID all of the bolts and figure out how to remove them. I had to drill out two bolts. Also be careful, once the wood is out the transom is weak. You can't torque down on the aluminum with a pry bar...just sayin ;) See the pictures below but the previous owners are definitely showing how NOT to do things.

These are lessons you can learn if you are a noob like me from this site by simply searching the forum -- I know how I won't be putting this thing back in!

1. Used wood screws to laminate the boards together.
2. Drilled a wire holder directly into the boat and covered it with 5200 -- good & bad. Good: Proven-- 5200 seems to plug miner holes Bad: Now I have to fix it!!!!
3. Used something other than Stainless Steel and every bolt was rusted on or so corroded they just popped right out.
4. Wood is pressure treated as you can tell -- the aluminum is VERY corroded. Going to take the boat up to my Father in Law's work where a guy that works with aluminum might be able to tell me if I have to replace the entire back transom. :(

Ok so today my Clark Craft Epoxy came in. I ordered it Monday and it came on Thursday! Everything was in order! Quick -- I like it!

SO I am going to follow all of BigTerp's Advise from here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 4&start=30 on his lessons learned from rebuilding his! Specifically glueing the two full sheets together THEN cutting the pattern out -- GENIUS!!

Ok Question time:

1. I plan to use two pieces of 3/4 MDO and laminating -- any tips with MDO? Don't want to start another argument but did anyone consider MDO for their transom?
2. If I sand -> Acetone -> etch -> prime my transom, will it stop the corrosion?
3. The Transom I pulled out doesn't go all the way from one side of the boat to the other -- it had ~ 3/8th of an inch between each side -- I assume this is for expansion-do I need that much or should I try to pattern a new one? Also it didn't quite extend down all the way into the seat that the bottom of the wood sat on...should it?
4. So to clean up those holes that the PO drilled into the side of the boat -- should I drill it out more and rivet it or take it to a welder?

Of course I didn't clean anything up tonight -- work tomorrow but I thought I would share. Thanks for taking a look!
Attachments
Close up of the screws
Close up of the screws
And its OUT!
And its OUT!
I will give you a guess -- which two did I have to drill out?
I will give you a guess -- which two did I have to drill out?
Another hole I have to fix!
Another hole I have to fix!
The old one is out...see all the screw holes. Is it typical to use two boards for the back piece?
The old one is out...see all the screw holes. Is it typical to use two boards for the back piece?
Transom plate removed -- held in with wood screws
Transom plate removed -- held in with wood screws
Wood Screws to laminate... all over the transom
Wood Screws to laminate... all over the transom
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bigwave
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Post by bigwave »

Yes it is typical to sandwich two pieces of 3/4" plywood for the transom. Make sure you use lots of clamps and a good glue like titebond III. It really is not that hard, just make sure you seal it good and use 5200 anywhere you drill holes for the bolts. IMO plywood is the way to go since softwood like pine will rot over time and hardwoods like oak will crack due to the stress from the engine. You have a template with the old piece, just make sure you get trace when you make the new one. I used a palm sander for the edges before I fiberglassed mine, followed by two coats of gel-coat. Mine should last a good long time.
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http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23315

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hercdrvrwo
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Post by hercdrvrwo »

Roger that!

So will MDO work here -- it is a plywood (used for outdoor signs)? I plan to use my Clark Craft resin (4 coats) -- thought about fiber glass but wasn't sure I wanted to go that route in case I wanted to add anything to the transom down the road -- if you drill into wood covered by fiberglass -- will that mess up the fiber glass and give a place for water to eventually work its way in between?

Also, it looks like of the two boards glued together -- the aft board was not one full sheet, it was two separate pieces (split down the middle, so in all three pieces of wood made up the transom).

Cheers
Herc
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Post by BigTerp »

BigWave had some solid advice. I'll try and answer your questions based on my transom replacement experience.
hercdrvrwo » Yesterday, 10:16 pm wrote:OK Update --


SO I am going to follow all of BigTerp's Advise from here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 4&start=30 on his lessons learned from rebuilding his! Specifically glueing the two full sheets together THEN cutting the pattern out -- GENIUS!!

Ok Question time:

1. I plan to use two pieces of 3/4 MDO and laminating -- any tips with MDO? Don't want to start another argument but did anyone consider MDO for their transom?
Not sure what MDO is, but I used exterior grade fir. 2 pieces laminated together with Titebond II. So far so good.
2. If I sand -> Acetone -> etch -> prime my transom, will it stop the corrosion?
This is waht I did to mine. Yours doesn't look horrible, but it's difficult to tell from your picture. Obviously once I installed my new transom I can't tell if the corrosion has stopped. But I did do the same process to areas on the bow and rear bench seat where the PO had a steel TM bracket and seat bracket. I haven't had my boat covered since I did the work, and I used the crap out of it this past waterfowl season, and the spots I worked on still show zero signs of corrosion. Based on that, I would say my transom is in just as good of shape.
3. The Transom I pulled out doesn't go all the way from one side of the boat to the other -- it had ~ 3/8th of an inch between each side -- I assume this is for expansion-do I need that much or should I try to pattern a new one? Also it didn't quite extend down all the way into the seat that the bottom of the wood sat on...should it?
Is it the original transom? If so, I would make my new one just like the original. It doesn't have to be perfect. I used a circular saw to cut my new one out and ended up cutting one of the corners just slightly to short. Enough to where one of my bolts that supposed to go through the transom, through the transom wood and into a corner brace just barely missed going through the transom wood. The transom is still solid as a rock, and it isn't an issue at all. My original transom also didn't completely go from side to side either. I think some do, but some don't. I'd leave it as is, it will make reinstallation easier. Not sure what you mean by siting on the seat? Is there a bottom bracket for the wood? Mine had a bottom bracket/brace and ran the length of the transom. The top bolted through the transom wood, and the bottom was riveted into the transom itself. There is about 2" or so of space between the botom of the bracket and the bottom of my hull.
4. So to clean up those holes that the PO drilled into the side of the boat -- should I drill it out more and rivet it or take it to a welder? IMO welding is better than riveting. With that being said, I used rivets on a few holes from the PO's FF transducer. They were all about 1-2" above the bottom of the hull and below the transom wood. I think I have a few pictures in my build thread of this. Worked perfectly fine. If the holes are wobbled out, or badly corroded you should drill them out to the next clean hole size, and sand to deburr the holes. Then you can decide on solid rivets with a bit of 5200, or having them welded. Either should work just fine.

Of course I didn't clean anything up tonight -- work tomorrow but I thought I would share. Thanks for taking a look!
A few things to look out for/consider when doing this job.

-Expect things not to line up perfectly when you install your new wood. I guess mine was slightly bowed in the middle causing me to have to drill new holes in the bottom of my hull for my 2 main transom braces. I thought I had really screwed things up when I got to this point. But all I had to do was line things up as close to original as possible, drill new holes and install my solid rivets. Worked like a charm.

-For drilling your transom wood holes make sure you use the transom itself, not the old transom wood. What I did was have my wife hold the new wood on the transom. I then drilled the top two holes and installed bolts in each to hold it nice and firm. Then going from the back of the transom, I drilled each hole carefully. They then lined up almost perfectly, helping me to avoid headaches when installing my hardware. Also drill your holes before you apply your final coat or 2 of epoxy. This allows the bolt holes to have a bit of sealant on them as well.

-Use some 5200 on every hole you have. I just put a bit on each bolt and rivet that I installed. Really good insurance, especially for holes below the water line. Be sure to give your 5200 the recommended 7 days cure time before you primer/paint over top of it as well.

-Make sure to use a few coats of urethane for UV protection following your epoxy. I don't think most epoxy resins have UV protection in them. IIRC I did 3 coats of epoxy and 2 of spar urethane. Like I said before, my boat has sat uncovered for 9 months and was abused pretty good during waterfowl season. My transom wood still looks like it was done yesterday.

Nothing else I think of at the moment. This is a pretty straight forward job, but in my experience rather tedious. It's worth it once you get it done for sure, but you'll be more than happy when it is done!! If you run into any issues I'll TRY to help if I can. GOOD LUCK!!!
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=26774

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hercdrvrwo
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Post by hercdrvrwo »

BigTerp -

Here is what MDO is: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium_den ... rlay_panel

Thanks for the words! I appreciate it! It will go slow -- but I will get it done.

So prioritized task list for the Transom:

1. Laminate boards - 2x 3/4 while that is setting up
2. Clean up transom - Sand & Wire brush
3. Drill out leaky holes and weld/rivet back up
4. Acetone then prime it up.
5. Cut boards to pattern - the transom I just pulled out was not the original. It was ~ 1 inch too short and didn't sit down on the shelf designed for the transom wood. The previous owners bolts didn't grab much of the wood.
6. Expoxy - 4 coats
7. Prime the board -- I plan to paint the transom the same color as the boat because I will be putting my camo pattern on the entire boat -- I leave nothing to chance when I am duck hunting!
8. Install using Big Terp's method - except I will use clamps not the wife -- not that she wouldn't help, I just need the me time to do it myself!

That's my plan. Should take maybe 1 week & a couple 'a hrs each day!
My Build : http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=30904

"Fly it like you stole it"

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BigTerp
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Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
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Location: Falling Waters, WV

1986 16' Grumman V-Hull Mod | Restore **PIC HEAVY**

Post by BigTerp »

hercdrvrwo » 15 minutes ago wrote:BigTerp -

Here is what MDO is: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium_den ... rlay_panel

Thanks for the words! I appreciate it! It will go slow -- but I will get it done. No problem. I would have been completely lost if not for the helpfull guys on here. Just sharing what I learned from my experience.

So prioritized task list for the Transom:

1. Laminate boards - 2x 3/4 while that is setting up - I may be reading this wrong, but I'd suggest getting two equal size boards to laminate together.
2. Clean up transom - Sand & Wire brush
3. Drill out leaky holes and weld/rivet back upWhat were these holes for anyway? Just curious.
4. Acetone then prime it up.
5. Cut boards to pattern - the transom I just pulled out was not the original. It was ~ 1 inch too short and didn't sit down on the shelf designed for the transom wood. The previous owners bolts didn't grab much of the wood. That makes sense then. You may want to pattern it with some cardboard. You should be able to easily see where the original transom was based on the bolt holes and supports. You can then cut your new wood based on the cardboard pattern
6. Expoxy - 4 coats
7. Prime the board -- I plan to paint the transom the same color as the boat because I will be putting my camo pattern on the entire boat -- I leave nothing to chance when I am duck hunting!Good idea. I'm decking my rear bench back to the transom, so mine will be hidden.
8. Install using Big Terp's method - except I will use clamps not the wife -- not that she wouldn't help, I just need the me time to do it myself!HA!! I enjoy the alone time myself. My boat and some homebrew, but I usually end up in trouble anyway.

That's my plan. Should take maybe 1 week & a couple 'a hrs each day!
Thats probably a pretty good estimate. Mine took a bit longer only because halfway through I left for the beach. I would say no more than a week, especially if you already have all your supplies in order. The longest part for me was waiting on the epoxy to cure. I could only do 1 coat every 24 hours. So thats three days right there.
BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 21&t=26774

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