Tony's 1952 Alumacraft Model K Restore Project

Hey all... getting to a point where I am looking for some insight, opinion, thoughts, ideas...etc.

Got my 16' all wire brushed down, replaced about 20 rivets (w some 3M to boot), got her crack welded, patched 30+ rivet holes on the bow with some MarineTex Putty, got my GluvIt laid and down and I think she is just about ready for a few primer coats.

I am not going to worry tremendously too much about the inner floor because it is already painted with a non-skid paint, and I am putting decking and flooring in place anyway, and most likely some sort of carpet.

My concern is the outside with is 100% bare aluminum, courtesy of countless hours of wire brushing.

I know the GluvIt needs a light wet sanding, as probably some trouble spots, then I think I will follow up with a power washing, finally followed up by (from another post I read) a wipe down with pure vinegar??? as an acid wash theory.

I have seen several types of self etching primer posts using rattle cans, or purchasing a quart with a catalyst mix, some with zinc chromate...etc...etc..

I saw the Rustolem self etching primer cans at Wally world for $5 or so...which I heard about 5 or 6 cans would cover a 16ft boat.

I was then hoping to follow up with a white base (2 coats) of marine primer of some sort (not yet decided).

This would then be followed up by which ever two tone colors I choose, Rustoleum type paint... will probably use rattle can, because I want to accomplish a two tone gradual faded look.

I would then consider applying some sort of clear coat varnish, finish, something to get a nice glossy smooth look.

Sounds like a lot, but there are ton of those little nicks, scratches, gouges and so forth that I really want to smooth out if possible.

Here are some photos I took today.

Just looking for insight, confirmation, whatever.

Morning all... thought I would put the next photo of my project up here for grins...

Building out my platform and am making good progress.

Nice job so far. Can you post a pic of the entire boat? Dig the shapes of the older hulls.

These are the before pictures with my co captain...

Cool boat, I like the transom corner castings.

I think I have the exact same boat lol you wouldn't happen to know what the logo looked like back then wanting to paint it on mine this year

I would definitely use self etching primer. I am not an expert but i dont think you need a thick layer of primer before doing a topcoat. After the self etching primer you could use the sandable rustoleum primer to get a smoother surface. I am working on my 12 monark now. I choose to use the quart can of primer and rustoleum hunter green gloss. I like the roll on method better than spray method in these cold temperatures because i can paint in my garage without worry of dying from rattlecan fumes.

Haha great pic with the kid!

Kier,

I am planning on using the self etch primer... got 3 cans which I am hoping will at least get the outside done for me.

I thought about skipping the primer layers, but thought it "might", just might, help me smooth our most of those gouges, and scrapes and little bumps along the way. I think 2 coats will get it done.

Then following up with a couple coats of my primary color.

I guess the question I have now is... If I just use the rustoleum latex primer on the outside, can I just leave it at that and call it good?
or do I need to cover it with some sort or oil based paint?

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=340410#p340410 said:

Kier » Yesterday, 21:38[/url]"]I would definitely use self etching primer. I am not an expert but i dont think you need a thick layer of primer before doing a topcoat. After the self etching primer you could use the sandable rustoleum primer to get a smoother surface. I am working on my 12 monark now. I choose to use the quart can of primer and rustoleum hunter green gloss. I like the roll on method better than spray method in these cold temperatures because i can paint in my garage without worry of dying from rattlecan fumes.

Click to expand...

I would cover it with the Rustoleum Stop Rust Oil based enamel at least. If you have more money than the average bear I might upgrade to the actual boat paints Interlux, Awlgrip, ... dont remember the others. Being a poor kid I decided on the cheap Rustoleum Enamel paint. I have read in the forums that some people have used tractor and farm enamel paint with good luck as well.

I attached a picture of the progress of painting my hull with rustoleum. This is after three coats. I just thin the rustoleum to 50% and use a high density roller and do very light coats.

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=340460#p340460 said:

tonynoriega » 01 Feb 2014, 12:25[/url]"]Kier,

I am planning on using the self etch primer... got 3 cans which I am hoping will at least get the outside done for me.

I thought about skipping the primer layers, but thought it "might", just might, help me smooth our most of those gouges, and scrapes and little bumps along the way. I think 2 coats will get it done.

Then following up with a couple coats of my primary color.

I guess the question I have now is... If I just use the rustoleum latex primer on the outside, can I just leave it at that and call it good?
or do I need to cover it with some sort or oil based paint?

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=340410#p340410 said:

Kier » Yesterday, 21:38[/url]"]I would definitely use self etching primer. I am not an expert but i dont think you need a thick layer of primer before doing a topcoat. After the self etching primer you could use the sandable rustoleum primer to get a smoother surface. I am working on my 12 monark now. I choose to use the quart can of primer and rustoleum hunter green gloss. I like the roll on method better than spray method in these cold temperatures because i can paint in my garage without worry of dying from rattlecan fumes.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I would not use latex primer! Use the self etch primer and oil based paint over that.

I really like that hull; Looks like a great project. \/

RustOleum oil base comes in a limited amount of colors, but is a good paint. Not sure what Awlgrip or Interlux cost: I used Petits Easypoxy primer and paint over etching primer. It waas about 30 bucks a quart. Did 2 coats on my 12 footer and had over half the paint left. Of coarse I did use 2 colors so, guess I had 2 quarts.

@rscottp

Why would you not use a latex primer?
I have seen several rebuilds and or projects where they recommend using the Rustoleum Aluminum Latex based primer.

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=340472#p340472 said:

rscottp » 01 Feb 2014, 15:01[/url]"]

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=340460#p340460 said:

tonynoriega » 01 Feb 2014, 12:25[/url]"]

I would not use latex primer! Use the self etch primer and oil based paint over that.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Frame set, and plywood cut for trap door access. Not perfect, but is solid as could be.

Not a huge step, but progress none the less...

got several coats of Spar Urethane on my platform and frame this weekend.... oh it was a joyous day yesterday... the sun came out and was waaaarm... I think it got up to like 56 degrees...
So I put my wood in the sun warmed things up and got to brushing...

Looks good, I wish I could have used 2x4's. My boat was just to deep and I needed to raise the floor higher.

Got a little work in on my fuel tank this weekend.... cleaned the inside out pretty good... put some rust cleaner in and all around her and wire brushed off the rest...wiped it down with some paint thinner and started painting....
Not quite done, but it some progress.

Considering what it used to look like, I think its pretty good.

I finally got a nice piece of wood in the transom...
Fitted and placed just right.

It is 1" thick Sapele wood.

I am happy.

Got it all sealed and ready to go.

At least 4 coats of spar.. I lost track after a while...

Outside Transom panel...

Marine grade plywood 1/2", stained and sealed with spar...

Not sure about the big SS washers though... I think they will help displace some force on the holes, but they are pretty big.