Unknown V hulled Homemade boat

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Hawkeye4356

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Hey guys I've been trolling this site for a few days now and have come to the conclusion that the people who are on this site know what they are doing. I however do not...... So I just bought a v hulled boat and trailer for a very inexpensive price. Its my first boat and as you can see by the pictures will be my first boat project. I have no idea what I'm doing but I pretty excited to get started. Please provide me with some advice!
 

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Welcome to Our Pond !!

start collecting large pieces of cardboard to make patterns.
purchase some lattice strips from the big box store. (1/4"x2"x8').
a hot-melt glue gun will be instrumental in the pattern process.
measure twice - (maybe 4 times) - cut once.

learn how to use the "Joggle Stick" - a/k/a Tick Stick, Tickle Stick, Toggle Stick,
good tutorials on the old YouTube.

have a plan - set a goal - be safe - ENJOY !!!
 
Any suggestions on stripping? lol that sounds wrong aloud...... to clarify what products to use. I felt overwhelmed while staring at them all.
 
what kind of coatings do you want to remove ?
factory paint or repaint from previous owners ?

a good citrus based paint remover is eco friendly plus easy on the hands.
the "aircraft grade" remover will take care of epoxy, enamel and latex paints
but is a bit harsh and requires more care in handling, application, removal and disposal.
IF the existing paint is sound, not flaking and stuck good - just abrade it and
spot fix anything that looks suspect........
do not use self etching primer over a painted surface. it is designed for bare metal only.
a good exterior grade oil base primer will work just fine for your boat.
avoid the "primer and paint in one can" household paints.
many good mechanical gadgets on the market to remove paint by hand.
most of those require a 4" angle grinder, safety gear and a lot of elbow grease,
learn how to use the "search" function on this forum..... MANY excellent tutorials
that members have posted similar to your project.
https://youtu.be/ZJVyacEQLPM
and yes, it can be a bit daunting to read all the labels on today's paints, primers and removers.
the EPA has placed such restrictions on the VOCs that it makes the hobbiest go bonkers.

again - Read, Understand and Follow the instructions on all products you may use.
pay particular to the safety instructions: eye and respiratory protection.
 
As for stripping the old paint. Check to see if you have anyone in your area that does DUSTLESS blasting. We just had a 14' flat bottom done for $300.00 and took about 1.5 hours. It was well worth the expense when you figure in buying all the product and the days you will spend applying them.
 
Alright guys so I did some work today after a trip to harborfreight. So my wife and used the flour idea with the stripper but we took it a step further and used gelatin instead. It was a great sticking agent. After a few hours of scrapping and scrubing I grabbed my side grinder and took the guard off. Threw on a paint stripper head and went to town. It eats through the layers of paint quick and easy. So needless to say that's how I'm gonna strip the paint layers off. Posted a few pictures of my days progress. I also took the transom off today and the guy who put it in must've been hi or something cause he used 1x4s which allowed a lot of moisture in and eventually rotted them out. He clearly didn't measure very good either because every board was off by about a half inch. I'm gonna use a piece of cardboard to make a template then make a single sheet of high grade ply.

I'll post more tomorrow after I get some more stripped off.

Quick question. Can I use minwax spar urethane or does it need to be marine quality spar urethane or does that even matter?
 

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personal opinion is to avoid the water based varnish and urethanes.
oil base Spar Varnish is the "go to" for exterior applications. (brand, gloss or satin, doesn't matter).
dilute 25-50% for the first coat - then two more unthinned coats after that dries.
Equal coats to both sides and edges.
do not return diluted or modified varnish back to the original can or it will spoil (eventually).

Read, Understand and Follow the instructions on the label of all products you use.
 
You can use what's called The old timers formula to seal the wood its a home made mix.
One part Boiled Linseed oil, One part Spar varnish or Spar urethane and two parts Mineral spirts.
 
Well I didnt get any work done today..... But I want the transom plate not to have 30 screws through it I want to keep it one beautiful piece of wood. What should I use to bond the two pieces of wood to the thin strip of aluminum back there? note the aluminum does have bolt holes. I realize lots of clamps will be needed about prolly 2 plus days for everything to cure but i have no idea what epoxy to use.
 
I think more photos of what you are working with would be helpful.

are you talking about the transom top plate ?
Inside back.jpg
I think the most common fastener would be the stainless Pan Head screws sealed with 3M-5200.
pan-head.jpg

for bonding the two plywood pieces together, either Titebond III or Gorilla Glue will be fine.
epoxy would be overkill, IMO.
TB glue.jpg

to glue the transom top cap on, a good contact adhesive would do well with some stainless screws.
CC.jpeg

it may seem unorthodox in the boating world, but, in the residential sector,
I use Loctite Polyseamseal 2-in-1 Seal & Bond All Purpose Adhesive and Sealant
mainly because it does not contain silicone and is 100% waterproof. Being silicone free, it does
not promote corrosion to the aluminum. Adheres anything to anything....
caulk.jpg
https://www.truevalue.com//catalog/product.jsp?productId=34124







.
 
Loctite is exactly what I will use. I researched 3m products and loctite is the same thing just not 40 dollars a tube! Thanks man! I'll shoot out some pics this evening of what it looks like.
 
Well I was able to get some work done today. Stripped the paint on the interior only stripped it down to where the floor or benches will be. Also got started on the outside. Almost ready for mineral spirits bath and then n o sealing and paint.
 

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Is it OK to strip it down to the primer as below?
 

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Got the other side 90 percent complete.
 

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Hawk - that is the dilemma that plagues us all.
WHERE do we draw the line and say eNuff-is-eNuff !!!
stick a fork in it, turn it over, it's DONE !!

It has been discussed here dozens of times of where to stop.
yes, it is okay to stop at the primer - IF - it is sound, not flaking,
and holding tight with no visible signs of corossion. Even the remnants
of any paint can be sanded to smooth the edges and primed over if it is sound and not flaking.
Wire brush the seams and clean it up. spot prime the BARE metal with self etching primer.
prime and paint your boat by whatever means is comfortable within your skill set.
keep in mind - it is not your grandmother's kitchen table: it is a boat !!!
it will last another 50 years just the way you have it now. It will be your family
treasure when you get it all done.
Do not apply self etching primer to any painted surface..... it could turn out bad.
GOOD JOB so far !!!

thanks for sharing your journey.


Read, Understand and Follow the instructions on the label of all products you use.
Pay particular attention to the safety notes and heed the warnings accordingly.







.
 
Can I use zinsser primer plus 123
 

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I would only use oil based self etching primer. Like rust oleum top coat primer


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https://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/marine-coatings/wood-and-fiberglass-primer



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On the aluminum

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/marine-coatings/metal-primer


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