1994 Sylvan Pro Select 19 Restore

Been a lurker for some time and now I've finally joined. My Sylvan needed new decking so I've decided to tear the whole boat apart and do the transom as well. I've followed and bookmarked a ton of threads, but have some questions.

Can I remove the rod locker door and forward compartment of the rod locker or does this provide structural support?

Below the rod locker is about a 9" tall section full of foam. I'm considering adding foam elsewhere and using this for additional rod or tackle storage. The area had .080 aluminum screwed to the floor and the lower rod locker lateral support. Thoughts? Or is this structural?

Thanks in advance! You have answered dozens of questions already via the search function!

Pictures would help.

Should've seen that one coming!

I'll get some up tomorrow after I figure out the posting process.

Here is a picture of what I was referring to. The bottom section was full of foam (which I would add elsewhere) and was covered by some .100 aluminum screwed to the deck and the middle section. Middle section is riveted to a piece of angle, which is riveted to the hull. Forward two feet of the rod locker were enclosed with carpeted 5/8 plywood. Ideally I'd like to used this entire side of the hull for open rod storage, but I don't know if I would need to add support or leave the middle section and add bracing.

I'm also curious on what to do with my livewell fittings. I've deleted the livewell and I thought about either using a plug cemented in with 5200 or removing them and replacing with thru hull deck fills and putting 5200 on the caps. This would be for the transom and the overflow fittings. Or patch them?

I could use ideas on removing the carpet glue if anybody has em. I'm planning to replace the deck with 3/16" aluminum and coat the whole interior with Durabak. Wire wheel best? Solvent?

Could sure use some help on the above if anyone is willing to share...

Yesterday I got the rest of the carpet off the hull and gunnels. The motor is ready to come off, and I've begun to sort through the bees nest of wires in back. Got a quote today for $400 for enough 3/16" aluminum to do the deck, awesome news!

Could still use any advice on the above??

It feels like a snails pace but I've got all the carpet out and scraped off the glue. My foam looks better than I thought...I'll try to get a look at the rear or put the multimeter in it to check for moisture.

I picked up a 9.9 merc 4 stroke with controls as well as a nice kicker bracket pretty reasonably. I'm excited to get back up and running.

Currently, I'm trying to figure out what to do with my livewell overflows. I've removed the well but how do I patch the hull? I was looking for a flat dummy plug to seal and screw in where the overflows are, but none seem to exist? Using aluminum sounds tricky on the curved hull. Help!

I ran into the same issue with my tracker guide 16. I removed the livewell inlet and outlet hoses, leaving two different size holes in the transom.
I found some automotive engine block expansion plugs (freeze plugs) that are rubber and pull thru against the inside of the transom.
I have not yet had the boat in the water, but I see no reason for them not to work. it's basically works by the same principle as the boat drain plug.
I've found them at NAPA. try to get them to fit as close to the hole size...... (before tightening).

Spoondragger said:

Been a lurker for some time and now I've finally joined. My Sylvan needed new decking so I've decided to tear the whole boat apart and do the transom as well. I've followed and bookmarked a ton of threads, but have some questions.

Can I remove the rod locker door and forward compartment of the rod locker or does this provide structural support?

Below the rod locker is about a 9" tall section full of foam. I'm considering adding foam elsewhere and using this for additional rod or tackle storage. The area had .080 aluminum screwed to the floor and the lower rod locker lateral support. Thoughts? Or is this structural?

Thanks in advance! You have answered dozens of questions already via the search function!

Click to expand...

I would think that rod locker provides structural support and all that foam is needed. How could you replace that much someplace else? Good luck with the build.
Tim

Many of the Sylvan boats are rebadged StarCraft's. The uprights might be part of the structure of the boat. They might tie the gunnels to the floor which ties to the ribs and gives support to the chine. The chine if not properly supports can over flex and crack. When you have the floor out check the rib ends for cracks and the hull around rivets at the ends of the ribs for cracks.

earl60446 said:

Spoondragger said:

Been a lurker for some time and now I've finally joined. My Sylvan needed new decking so I've decided to tear the whole boat apart and do the transom as well. I've followed and bookmarked a ton of threads, but have some questions.

Can I remove the rod locker door and forward compartment of the rod locker or does this provide structural support?

Below the rod locker is about a 9" tall section full of foam. I'm considering adding foam elsewhere and using this for additional rod or tackle storage. The area had .080 aluminum screwed to the floor and the lower rod locker lateral support. Thoughts? Or is this structural?

Thanks in advance! You have answered dozens of questions already via the search function!

Click to expand...

I would think that rod locker provides structural support and all that foam is needed. How could you replace that much someplace else? Good luck with the build.
Tim

Click to expand...

I had thought about filling the ski locker area below the deck with foam to compensate, but after hearing the input and taking a closer look, I'm going to leave as is. It does seem to be important structurally.

Well got to it yesterday. Plugged two livewell outlets. Riveted in plates with plenty of 5200 between the hull and plate. Fitted a piece in the center too. Other side was centered a tad better than this.

Figured out my leaking problem...about 20 rivets running from port to starboard laterally were loose enough to get a fingernail under. Few hours with a sledge and air hammer and now onto the next piece.

Well yesterday Dad and I got the motor off event and injury free!

Started pulling out the transom and wow is it a bugger. The upper section on both upper corners came out easy. The main chunk is another story altogether. My 2 inch eye bolts pulled out with force applied. We finally made it to the port side corner using a chainsaw very carefully and a wood chisel. Buying an auger bit and longer eye bolts today...am I missing anything??

good deal on the "injury free" event !!

photos of your progress can help the gallery help you




.

Here's what I got done today. Found two bonus screws hiding where the foam covered them. Wood is so wet it's wedged awful tight. Auger bit to the bottom and hand saw made good progress.

Here's my current progress. Looks like I'll have to take out the splash well after all to get all the pitting out :-(

This project just keeps getting bigger!

Jb weld to mend the pits??

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The pitting in is quite extensive to where there are two small pin holes in one spot. Can I clean these up and fill with jb weld or is there a better fix?

Would it be better to buy a sheet of 14ga aluminum, prime it, and prime the transom aluminum. Then slide the 14ga piece in as a rear skin to the new transom wood?

Went to work with the wire wheel...worse than I thought.

So I've cleaned and prepped the pitting as best I can. I then used JB Weld and filled all the pits. Those that had pin holes leaked out a bit but they are sealed. Now onto the transom replacement.

I'm considering a couple avenues. My transom is 1.450 as best I can tell.

One is to buy two sheets of 3/4 ply (I found some ACX fir for $50 a sheet) and wood glue together, then seal with Old Timers.

Second option is one sheet of 3/4" and one sheet of 1/2" glassed with 2oz mat between and sealed (either with more resin or OTF). This would leave me about an 1/8" thin. I'd fill that space with a .125 aluminum skin inside the rear transom metal. I would use 5200 and clamp in until cured prior to inserting the transom board. I feel this would be insurance against additional corrosion and/or water intrusion.

I'm leaning toward number two, which would be significantly more work. This boat will hang a 120 and a 9.9 kicker. Is this overkill? I will probably own the boat another 5-10 years. It's out maybe 25 trips a year and stored indoors. The 20 plus year old transom appeared to be original.