1990 14' Lund Pike Rebel Special - UPDATE

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mtntop

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Location
Colorado
Hi, thank you to everyone who has posted on here and provided valuable information. It has been very helpful to me. I have worked on fiberglass boats in the past but this is my first tin boat. I bought this from my father in law who took very good care of the hull, a 25 hp merc 2 stroke engine and trailer. I am re-fitting the boat so that it is more flyfishing friendly. I used to have a flats boat in FL which I sold in 1996 when I moved to CO. I will add pics as this progresses
 

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Nice hull! Looks like a clean layout for SWFF too!

Consider ...

-Adding Nautolex marine vinyl over the wood. It protects they wood, isn't hot on the feet, you'll never have to repaint it and it lasts longer than carpet and is super easy to clean to boot! That sounds to me like a win, win, win, and WIN! FWIW my marine vinyl (OEM) installation is going on 20-years old and is still sound and looks pretty good when power washed and cleaned up! However, that is New England boat use, which means she's in the weather and sun whilst out on the mooring 24/7 from mid-May to end of October. I know you're season are longer :mrgreen: .

Just one example here for vinyl: https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2276179%7C2276198%7C2276202&id=23740

-Adding a zinc anode to the hull, if leaving it immersed in SW 24/7, like I do. see: https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=39331

-Remember, tin boat here, not frp, so if/when you use any stainless fastener you should really insulate the SS fastener body from any aluminum it could touch. I use waterproof/synthetic grease on bolt bodies, or that and sheathed in adhesive-lined heatshrink, and nylon washers under the bolt head and nylok nuts (nylon against tin, under SS washer if a load bearing item).
 
Thanks for the insight Dale, I appreciate it. I live in Colorado now and want to chase Pike and Carp with a flyrod. I hear it is a blast, just like catching reds or snook on a flyrod!

I used 1/2 inch ABX 5 ply plywood and 'extended' the existing bulkheads in order to elevate the front casting deck. I attached 2x2 1/8 aluminum angle to the tops which will secure the decks.

I did not elevate the front deck any higher because the bow is a v hull and much less stable than the stern. I felt this was a good tradeoff and will keep the wind off the flyline when it laying on the deck while casting.

bulkheads.jpg

The deck is also 1/2 inch abx 5 ply and is dry fitted here, and eventually its color will be blended with the light blue up the sides with a sponge to mimic a camo look which will break up the reflected light. I built a hatch in the bow which will be used as an anchor locker. The center area will remain low and I will place a mounted seat here for the wife or daughter. The stern was framed in w 2x2 1/8 aluminum as well to create a sitting area while running and a casting deck and it will have a LOT of dry storage underneath.

I decided I don't like the way the fuel and electric lines are set. I will split them on each side of the keel in their own PVC tubes for easy maintenance later.

front deck dryfit.jpg
 
mtntop said:
I live in Colorado now and want to chase Pike and Carp with a flyrod.
Silly me ... :oops: my mind automatically went to chasing fish on saltwater flats ... I must have been dreaming! OK, you don't need to worry about your boats in F-W like I need to do for mine in S-Waters.

mtntop said:
I decided I don't like the way the fuel and electric lines are set. I will split them on each side of the keel in their own PVC tubes for easy maintenance later.
I also added a rigging tube and took a long length of blue thick mono 'weed whacker' cord and put it into the rigging tube, tied to a large SS fender washer on each end. Mono is long enough so I can pull from one end and pull a length of wire the length of the tubing all the way through ... so your mono needs to be 2X as long plus 2-3' extra for good measure. I just coil it up under the dash on the helm side, so on my boat it is out of the sun.

Last week I went to add a new wiring run all the way to the stern, un-did the coil at the helm, taped in the wire I needed to the mono at the helm, then walked to the stern, grabbed the washer and pulled it right through - simple, easy, and FAST! Pulled it back at the helm and re-coiled it, waiting it's next use.

Tip - Spray the wire to be pulled with WD40 or even wet out the few foot or so with spit ... and the wire zips right through, especially as your run gets more 'crowded'.

Enjoy that hull! Now if you don't post pictures of your flyrod pike catches ... note I'm going to sick Jim and Capt Ahab onto you ... :lol:
 
DaleH said:
mtntop said:
I live in Colorado now and want to chase Pike and Carp with a flyrod.
Silly me ... :oops: my mind automatically went to chasing fish on saltwater flats ... I must have been dreaming! OK, you don't need to worry about your boats in F-W like I need to do for mine in S-Waters.

mtntop said:
I decided I don't like the way the fuel and electric lines are set. I will split them on each side of the keel in their own PVC tubes for easy maintenance later.
I also added a rigging tube and took a long length of blue thick mono 'weed whacker' cord and put it into the rigging tube, tied to a large SS fender washer on each end. Mono is long enough so I can pull from one end and pull a length of wire the length of the tubing all the way through ... so your mono needs to be 2X as long plus 2-3' extra for good measure. I just coil it up under the dash on the helm side, so on my boat it is out of the sun.

Last week I went to add a new wiring run all the way to the stern, un-did the coil at the helm, taped in the wire I needed to the mono at the helm, then walked to the stern, grabbed the washer and pulled it right through - simple, easy, and FAST! Pulled it back at the helm and re-coiled it, waiting it's next use.

Tip - Spray the wire to be pulled with WD40 or even wet out the few foot or so with spit ... and the wire zips right through, especially as your run gets more 'crowded'.

Enjoy that hull! Now if you don't post pictures of your flyrod pike catches ... note I'm going to sick Jim and Capt Ahab onto you ... :lol:

LOL, I really miss the flats fishing and will retire in FL but for now CO is perfect for me
I like your idea of the mono, kinda of like a ready to use electrician's fishing tape :)
 
made some progress, soon she will be on the water
 

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yes, I strongly agree, my wife is wondering just how much work needs to be done to a boat that was very seaworthy when we got it from her father. She and my daughter are bugging me to get it done!!
 
nav lights.jpg

wired in new LED nav lights and re-wiring switch panel, bilge and anchor light

hatches in.jpg

hatches are in, wiring almost done.
 
Got the wiring finished and battery in place, along with the fuel tank support. I am using a 6 gal tank and 4 ga wire with a master switch to the switch panel and a separate line to the engine.
 

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Is tour fuel cell vented? Sealed (somewhat) from the batrery compartment? On one hull I added a small clamshell on the gunnel to a hose to the cell, to force positive flow of fresh air info the fuel compartment, which must have some other vent for stale air/fumes to exhaust.
 
Hi Dale, good question, the fuel compartment will be vented to the outside once I cut a hole on the starboard side of the fascia so I can hang rods along the gunwale and it the compartment has 3 large holes I cut in the bulkhead below it which vent to the stern. It is pretty isolated from the battery compartment via the bulkhead and hatch. Neither compartment is airtight though or watertight. I will hang a Type ABC fire extinguisher within reach as well since the cell is below decks.
 
mtntop said:
Hi Dale, good question ...
Even BETTER :) answer my friend! Wasn't being nosy ... but some people don't think about such things.

Once saw a boat at the fuel dock start his motors without running his bilge blowers :shock: ... sad to say he was the 1st boat offshore that day ... and the hard way at that! Luckily no one died!
 
no worries Dale :), I too have seen some tragic events caused by combustible fluids and gases.

Thanks Robert!
 
Hi Robert, I appreciate the feedback, I will get some better shots of the boat for ya. I mounted the engine yesterday and finished the wiring and anchor locker
 
pretty much finished, decided to paint interior all the same color. I also rebuilt the trailer. It was white, needed new bearing races, bearings, wheels and tires. Painted it black and put new lighting, bunks and wiring. Reconfigured the guide ons, they were longer.

I polished the hull, it was pretty oxidized


Just need to secure the hatches now with latches. I am also going to elevate the engine, it sits too low on the transom. Placed a block of wood under it to test the engine and prop while running
 

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That is a nice looking boat. I really like what you have done.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 

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