2007 Lund 16ft Classic 1625 transom and floor rebuild

I do love my Lund, just not the short cuts Lund did while making it. Unsealed transom, unsealed wood transom and floor with steel screws lead to a rotten transom, corrosion in transom, rusted out screws and corrosion on stringers under deck, 4 spots of rot on deck.

Oh and I garage my boat and am crazy about caring for it. Since I'm the second owner, Lund said too bad we can't help you.


I hadn't planned on having to replace the transom and deck in my 10 year old boat, however Lund did not seal either the transom or deck plywood. Both are now out.

Transom was a bear to get out. I ended up drilling all the way through. Put a ratchet strap through. Attached to the cross beam in garage. Ratchet it up a foot. Got in the boat and jumped to pop it out. The aluminum on the inside came out with the transom. It was not connected.

Because of the plywood collecting saltwater, drying, and getting wet again there were HUGE salt crystals and corrosion with one pin hole that was letting in more water.

I got alumnaprep 33 and alodine.

I am planning on doing both alumnaprep and alodine on the inside and outside then gluvit. Then paint on outside.

I have spray in foam that I need to check if it is holding water. It was in the back near the transom.

I am going to use coosa board for transom.

I am torn between 5052 /5068 aluminum diamond plate OR coosa board for the deck.

Salt is brutal on everything. At least you have something solid enough for a template.


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Yeah. Salt is rough. I use the boat it Hood Canal, which has far less salt than most other places on Earth

For anyone trying to get the transom out of the Lund there were some things that had to happen.

In the compartments on the left and right cut into the bulkhead. Then pop out pieces of foam with crowbar /pry bar etc. This will get you to the bolt nuts.

You will also need to remove the side tops, pop out enough foam to get at the bolt nuts.

The outboard bolts were the easiest to remove. Get a engine hoist. Harbor freight. Hoist engine. Hammer out bolts. They will fall in the boat. Get them later.

Once I got the bolts all out, drill out rivets on inside, I took a machete and worked it along the transom to see if I got everything. Also cut the foam connected to the transom using the machete. I worked it on both sides. The outside is easy, inside is connected to transom.

If I were to do it again. I would work the machete on the outside of the interior aluminum. In between the tray an aluminum sheet. That sheet will come out when the transom comes out.

There are stringers one on each side below the transom. They are below the bottom of the transom. The transom does not go all the way down to the bottom.

Also you need to unscrew the interior electrical screws that hold the connectors in the transom. These are not grounds, just the screws holding anything into the transom from the inside.

Once done get an extender (Harbor freight) and spade blade. Drill hole on each side. Dig out more foam from inside. Thread ratchet material up the hole. Connect to beam above. Ratchet and then jump on back. If all bolts, screws are out, it should pop up. You will think you broke your boat. At least I did. It is ok.

Get stainless scraper and brush (Harbor freight)
I attached scraper to pvc pipe with duct tape and scraped away. Then I used the machete to cut the foam away. It was holding water like a sponge.

I always wanted a Lund but it sounds like they're not made much better than the rest. What color will it be and how big a motor.

I love my Lund but I only use it in the salt. Maybe not the best for salt.

I was tempted to go fiberglass but I would miss my Lund

Loving my Lund a little less tonight. Got all the steel machine screws out. Completely rusted. No Idea why Lund would have stainless where the buyer could see it but steel to rust out on the floor under the lamimate flooring glued down.

Also the spray foam was holding a ton of water. 1 inch of water in the bottom of the foam against the hull. No way to ever get dry.
Tonight I worked to get the sponge of foam out too. Very hard under the back seats.

I think it might be up front too past the bulkhead. So much saltwater sitting against the hull.

I got my coosa board Bluewater 26. 1 1/2" Yesterday.

Need to get diamond plate aluminum sheet for my New floor. No more wood floor or transom.

I'll post more pictures tomorrow

Pressure washed much of the saturated foam out from under the rear bench. The foam is very gritty and is everywhere. Be sure to wear eye protection. It is like sand. Such a mess.

I ordered my diamond plate 5052 3/16" 48 x 196"
I am going to use 48 x 86 1/2" for the deck. Some to reinforce the transom outside since with the wet transom there was the beginning of corrosion.
The rest I am debating finishing off the front deck vs the sides that are wood wrapped in carpet. I'm going to.see how much I can do. I want all the wood out. I might need more diamond plate.

South Sound said:

Loving my Lund a little less tonight. Got all the steel machine screws out. Completely rusted. No Idea why Lund would have stainless where the buyer could see it but steel to rust out on the floor under the lamimate flooring glued down.

Click to expand...

easy. the buyer doesn't see it and likely won't for years. Lund definately has fanatic fanboys preaching about the superiority of their boats (same ones that oddly enough dispute that mine is an actual lund and accuse me of putting stickers on it lol) but at the end of the day they are no better or worse put together than any of the other similar brands. it is a shame that such obvious cost cutting is making you redo a relatively new boat....

Got most of the foam out. Pain to say the least. Took a break from the foam to cut out the coosa board transom and cut out some diamond plate to attach to the back of the transom. Completely reinforced and then some.

Next step figuring out float foam, pool noodles, etc. Not sure of best option.

Waiting for weather to warm up for alumniprep and alodine. Then gluvit. Then attach everything back.