14' Sears Gamefisher V-Hull Conversion

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BassMan2018

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First post ever in this forum but I would like to thank all the members on here. For a while I have viewed your modifications to your jon and vhulls and I finally decided to begin working on my own, thanks to your inspiration!

I have a 1988 (I think that's the year) 14' Sears Gamefisher vhull. The boat has had plenty added to it over the years I've owned it and I finally decided that rather than spend a ton on a new boat (I have 3 beautiful kids to consider), I would begin doing actual work on this myself. I run a 15hp Johnson outboard with a tiller, long shaft. Due to the size of this motor I was always afraid for my transom so I transported it in my truck while trailering the boat. I may still do this, but the motor is heavy and this ain't easy. The rest of the equipment I have on here: 1 Lowrance Elite Series 500 fishfinder (maps, down-imaging, and sonar) at the stern, 1 Humminbird Piranhamax at the bow, 3 swivel seats that sit on top of the 4 bench seats, 2 12V batteries on board, + gear, etc.

I've now added the framing for a new deck and floor (see in pictures below), reinforced the transom, added a 3rd battery to get 24 volts at the bow for a new 86lb thrust tolling motor at the bow. I will be cutting out 4 compartments total: 2 dry boxes, 1 livewell (made from a rubber bin and using a self-circulating sump), and 1 large box at the bow for the batteries, anchor, and storage.

Very excited to hear some feedback, suggestions, comments, etc.!
 

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Pressure treated wood is not good to use on an aluminum boat. The copper used to treat the wood will react badly with the aluminum.
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
Pressure treated wood is not good to use on an aluminum boat. The copper used to treat the wood will react badly with the aluminum.

Uh oh, what do you suggest? Is this the case even if I poly everything?
 
The copper will leach out of the wood when it gets wet and will be trapped in between the wood and hull.
Coating the wood my slow the process but it will happen.
 
It looks like your using a long shaft motor on a short shaft boat.. so that's extra drag and weight.. I take it you need a battery for the motors electric start?

And a 24V trolling motor is way overkill for a that 14ft.. so the 3rd battery is weight wasted..
You could easily get by with a 12v 55lb unit. And if you wanted to, only use the rear mounted battery to save more weight.

that is actually a small and narrow boat to build up for use with 3 people so be careful about every pound of weight you add.

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk
 
I don't mean to Shanghai you thread, but l am wondering if you might be able to help me out with identifing a project boat I recently acquired. It has no identifing numbers whatsoever, and I've gone through hundreds of pictures trying to identify it. You photos jumped right out to me as having a number of structural characteristics in common with mine so I'm wonding if mine might be the model. Mine is 1962 or earlier and I have attached a photo. Would you mind comparing?

IMG_20180224_084539447.jpg
 
Why do people want to add all that weight to a small boat? I'm guessing when all is said and done a couple of hundred extra pounds for sure. Hard enough on the small engines, then add the weight of an extra person all the time. If you want a casting platform, why not make one in just one section and not the entire boat?
 

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