16 foot Duro Craft build

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stomper

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I’ve had this boat for some time now and have finally decided to start the build process. It may be a slow build because I am only doing it in my spare time. I will be adding a floor, rod lockers, live well, front casting deck and of course storage. It will be 100% aluminum with possible exception of the transom. I’m not quite sure about that yet. I will be removing just enough of the middle seat to give an open floor plan. All the wood is removed already an I have started framing the floor with 2x2x1/8 angle. I will be using 1/8” plate for the floor and decking and putting some kind of kiwi grip or truck bed liner on it. I would like to make an aluminum transom but have some concerns with vibration from the motor. I have read where the wood transom helps to dampen some of the motor vibrations. The old transom was 2" thick. You can see the pocket that it was sitting in. Real easy to remove and install the transom board. The way the pocket is desined for the transom, it had the wood exposed on the inside of the boat and it is super easy to replace if needed so I may just stick with a wood transom for simplicity sake. I was thinking maybe go with a 2 ply of 3/4" marine plywood and skin it with 1/4" aluminum on each side to give me the 2", then just drop it in the pocket and fasten in place. I would appreciate some advice and ideas on this. The old transom was in pretty good shape but I thought for the price of a new sheet of marine plywood I would replace it. I look forward to any suggestions and ideas any of you might have.
 

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The pictures were taken with my cell phone so I am assuming that is why they are sideways. I am going for the same layout as the tracker boat in the link.
https://www.trackerboats.com/boat/?boat=4572
 
I picked up a couple sheets of 5/8" marine plywood for the transom. That stuff isn't cheap, $135 a sheet. Being that the original transom was 2" thick, the option I am going with a 3 plys of the 5/8" marine plywood and one ply of 1/8" aluminum on the interior of the boat. This will give me the 2" that I need for the transom to fit snug inside the channel and will give me the aluminum on the inside of the boat. I will be using the "old timers formula" for the water proofing. I have one question though, The aluminum on the transom has a slight bit of pitting, maybe more of an oxidization around where the original bolt holes are, It's nothing to be conserned about but I was wondering if it would be a good idea to maybe paint it before I install the new transom. You can see what I mean in the pictures on my previous posts.
 
Thanks yellowboat, I want to do this right the first time. I bought the boat several years ago for this specific project and It hasn't even been in the water yet since I bought it, so I'm not about to rush things now. LOL. I am also going to paint the complete inside of the boat before I start adding all the interior stuff like rodlockers and storage compartments and will be doing something like linex or rhino liner on the casting deck and floor or maybe kiwi grip but I don't know to much about it. Once all the interior stuff is done, that will get painted also. What is the goto primer and paint brand that is marine grade that will give me the best results and durability on aluminum. I have been reading lots of good about the rustoleum latex aluminum primer and rustoleum marine coating topside Paint. Has anyone had any experience with either of these.
 
stomper said:
I have one question though, The aluminum on the transom has a slight bit of pitting, maybe more of an oxidization around where the original bolt holes are, It's nothing to be conserned about but I was wondering if it would be a good idea to maybe paint it before I install the new transom. You can see what I mean in the pictures on my previous posts.

Kill the corrosion before you do anything else. The pitting you see will have a white powdery dust in or around it, this is caused by water being trapped between your old transom wood and the aluminum. Mix a solution of 50% muriatic acid to 50% water, work it into the pits really good with a stainless wire brush, rinse well with plenty of water. Don't let it stay on more than a few minutes at a time. If your unsure that its rinsed well enough, you can mix baking soda and water and apply to the area to neutralize any left over acid, then rinse with plenty of water. Let it dry, fill the pits with JB, sand smooth, then primer with self etching primer. No need to paint unless you just want to. Will probably do more harm than good if the paint doesn't stick, it will trap water and cause more corrosion.
 
Thanks guys. It's great to get tips from someone who has experience with this before. I am on the fence with the bed line on the floor and casting deck. I have seen a few build on the net where guys have used diamond plate and just painted it and it looks pretty nice. My only concern is the durability of the paint and if the diamond plate would get slippery when it is wet. I have a buddy that has a powder coating business and have thought about diamond plate and powder coating. He has done a cage and bumpers for my Polaris RZR and it is tough stuff and would be much more durable that paint but also alot tougher to fix if it wears through. Has anyone had experiences with painted or powdercoated aluminum floors in their boats. I would leave it bare but I think it would bake me out on a hot sunny day, not to mention the bright reflection coming from it would be unbareable.
 

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