Bottom of hull permanent sealers?

Hello all,


I am new to this forum and would like to know if anyone has first hand knowledge of how to seal the bottom a side console Jon boat? As of right now I have it completely stripped down and it is going to be repainted. My issue is that I have about 5 gals. of water that comes into the boat in about a hours time frame. I figured while it is being sandblasted this would be a great time to add a sealer to the bottom of the hull. I have seen a lot of things but unsure of what is actually going to suite my needs. I have seen Gator glide, but I am unsure if you can paint that? I've also seen steel flex and glovit. Can someone please lead me in the correct direction? I only know of two cracks in the bottom and they have been sealed/fixed. Thanks for the help and your time!

I've not done what you are asking about so this is really a seat of the pants opinion.

I don't think adding a sealer by itself is a good way to solve your problem. I think you need to identify the reason for the leak(s). Then it may be appropriate to use one of the products you mention in conjunction with re-bucking or replacing bad rivets, welding or patching a crack, or what ever remedy is needed to fix the actual problem.

You could put some water in your boat and watch underneath for where the leak(s) is happening. Then you will know where and what the problem is.

Ok thanks for the advise. I have had it pretty full before and haven’t seen any leaks, but once on the water there is a definite leak. This boat is built more like a bass boat. So I know of one spot under part of the gram that you can not get to due to it being a wall that is welded in.

PS how do I upload an image?

A mechanical (rivet or weld) repair will be most durable. A chemical repair (sealant) can crack or debond over time when the pounding of wave action gets to it.

• I'd re-buck all accessible rivets
  
• Clean hull well inside (vinegar wash & copper brush scrub) - then rinse/dry
  
• Prime each rivet, rivet area with 2-part epoxy-based zinc chromate primer
  
• Then apply West Systems G-Flex 650 'flexible epoxy' ($22 kit, might take 2)
  
• Any epoxy product exposed to the sun needs to be painted or top-coated (Rust-Oleum enamels are very good & reasonably inexpensive)

... if leaks after that, you have weak seams where water is being forced through the over-lapping panels as the hull moves through the water. These can be an absolute beyatch to cure ... ; you should really take the 'dry' boat and get on the water FAST, don't dilly-daly, and have someone steer on plane so you can identify and mark those weak areas.

If needed, do the above sequence, but to the seams from the outside/upside-down. Prep WELL!

FYI - On my present 14' tin hull, used 24/7 in saltwaters, all is 'sound' less the area under the center keel piece that is riveted fore to aft to the bottom of the hull. When affixed, this piece is essentially 'hollow', but it has factory holes drilled in it so it can drain when the hull is out of the water, so I am getting corrosive saltwater in there that appears to be causing issues, where right now that area is inaccessible (all rivets holding it on were re-bucked).

So I am presently in the process of completely removing that 10' long extruded piece (4" wide by 2" tall upside-down 'V' shape) and will do ALL of the above, including painting the interior of the otherwise-closed-off space with expen$ive anti-fouling paint.