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PostPosted: 13 Mar 2019, 09:40 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
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Location: Eastern Mass
Pikemaster25 wrote:
Would I be able to reuse the existing bolts and just put new nylock nuts on the back of them?
Sure, if in good shape, hardware can be expen$ive. Wire brush well and clean with vinegar.

Pikemaster25 wrote:
Also, if the wood is still in good shape and I can get it out in one piece, could I just epoxy it up and reuse the same piece of wood since it's not pressure treated ?

ONLY if truly dry ... make a tent with anything that would cover it and use a hair dryer or heat gun to flow warm air around it ... and protect from rain.

FWIW I see the same damage on 90s to early 2000s boats used in the salt, where the Mfg'rs started using untreated or uncoated ply, to get away from the PT-treated wood issues. 'Salt' has its own issues. And as I said, that corrosion is a 'chloride' precipitate corrosion so you MUST remove all traces of any 'white' residue or corrosion.

Sit back, think it through and you'll be OK ... and we're here to walk you through any obstacles!



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#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
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PostPosted: 13 Mar 2019, 11:21 

Joined: 11 Feb 2019, 22:16
Posts: 13
Got the cap off. Things look good so far. I imagine there is moisture somewhere in the wood, but it looks bone dry on the top


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PostPosted: 14 Mar 2019, 07:10 

Joined: 29 Dec 2011, 17:29
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That looks almost exactly like the lumber used on my boat, it is a CCA type treated plywood and is used in marine construction, used to be common, lots of pontoon boats use it for their decking but, usually, if they are a decent builder will put down and insulating tape to prevent the wood from actually coming into contact with the aluminum. The CCA treatment has copper but, no where near what they use today at the lumber yard. The CCA has arsenic in it and its use has been severely restricted. I think it is still available though, not sure. Unfortunately it will eventually cause corrosion if it gets wet and even though mounted in a transom like that is is pretty much shielded form the weather it still gets wet.

I was going to replace my wood but It was in fine condition after over 15 years. I couldn't see just tossing it out. That is why I just sealed mine up with epoxy and then when I reinstalled it into the boat I went ahead and just glued it in, again with the g-flex thickened epoxy, that helped seal up the holes from the corrosion. You need to be sure to thoroughly clean the aluminum before doing this, or else it will just corrode again.

If it is reusable, I would reuse it, you can't beat it, it will last forever. If it is wet then let it dry for a month before sealing it. You won't know until you remove it completely. Good Luck.


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PostPosted: 14 Mar 2019, 08:34 

Joined: 04 Jan 2019, 14:37
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I've got the same problem. Do you use brazing rods to fill in the holes once cleaned out? That's want I was planning to do.


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PostPosted: 14 Mar 2019, 11:45 

Joined: 29 Dec 2011, 17:29
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You can certainly do that, mine got filled in when I epoxied the wood in.


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PostPosted: 14 Mar 2019, 12:10 
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tloc1000 wrote:
I've got the same problem. Do you use brazing rods to fill in the holes once cleaned out? That's want I was planning to do.

I wouldn’t bother, fill with thickened epoxy product, but then you’ll need to repaint the transom.



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 14 Mar 2019, 23:40 

Joined: 11 Feb 2019, 22:16
Posts: 13
Yea I plan on just jb welding the damage to the aluminum, and then epoxying over it. I figure I'll put a layer of epoxy on the inside of the aluminum too, where the wood goes.


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PostPosted: 17 Mar 2019, 15:17 

Joined: 11 Feb 2019, 22:16
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Sooo any tips on how to lift the old wood out ? I got all the bolts and screws out that hold it in, but that bugger doesn't wanna budge


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PostPosted: 17 Mar 2019, 23:51 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
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Location: Algonquin Il
I drilled pilot holes in to the top of the transom and used very long eye bolts chained to a 4x4. My brother and I lifted up on the 4x4 while my nephews held down the boat.



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PostPosted: 18 Mar 2019, 13:50 

Joined: 31 Oct 2015, 09:51
Posts: 33
In what situations would you consider using a product like Seacast, instead of taking out the old wood and replacing with epoxy sealed new wood?


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PostPosted: 18 Mar 2019, 17:53 

Joined: 29 Dec 2011, 17:29
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You need to remove the inner skin so that you can clean it thoroughly using a wire wheel. If you don't "fix" the corrosion, it will just come back.
All aluminum surfaces that were in contact with the wood need to be cleaned using a wire wheel and detergent and phosphoric acid, then sealed with primer or epoxy coated.


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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2019, 05:50 

Joined: 11 Feb 2019, 22:16
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I don't plan on actually removing the skin to clean it up. Everything is riveted in and it's not worth me ripping that all apart. I'm gonna clean it as good as I can with leaving it all together, then epoxy the crap outta it and slide in the new wood. If that lasts me another 5 years I'll be happy as a clam !


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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2019, 18:43 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
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Location: Algonquin Il
If you want to leave it all together see if it can be media blasted.



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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2019, 22:37 
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uttexas wrote:
In what situations would you consider using a product like Seacast, instead of taking out the old wood and replacing with epoxy sealed new wood?

Carbon Core is exponentially better than Seacast and is the product that I used, but either is 2-3X the price of epoxied wood. I only went with it to form a totally 'wood free' transom. But I don't see it replacing wood as the transom coring in tin boats.



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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