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Western14’

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Bought a 14’ tinny on the cheap...for good reasons. Previous owner must have ran into something and put a big tear in the bottom of the hull (see photos) The PO repaired it by riveting another piece of aluminum to the outside. The gaps & rivets were smothered with silicone on the outside of the hull. The damage on the inside of the hull was covered in flex seal paste. Gross, I know lol. It worked for the last year, but eventually began to leak somewhere. The leak was nothing to cause immediate concern, as it was minimal enough that the bilge wouldn't remove any water. After 8+ hours on the water, there was maybe 1/2” of water at the stern of the boat. I could have left it for the time being, but since I’m currently redoing the bunks, I figured I might as well address the issue now that the boat is off the trailer.

I should have taken a photo showing why I chose “smothered” and not covered in silicone. So far I removed all the silicone and cleaned up the area with a wire wheel. The coin shown in the photo is a dime for reference. I’m looking for any and all suggestions to go about sealing the outside, besides welding. I was originally going to re-silicone everything but since have found HTS 2000...basically an aluminum brazing rod with no flux required. (Aluminumrepair.com) One concern that I have with the rods is that the silicone in between the hull and aluminum plate will melt and if the HTS 2000 doesn’t hold, I may have a larger leak on my hands than before I started. Besides cutting up and recycling, any suggestions? How bad is it? Appreciate all the help and, of course, thanks in advance.
 

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Your plan of action seems as good as any, if it doesn't work you're really no worse off unless you melt a big hole in it. You already know what kinda works so there's your backup plan. Disclaimer - You already nixed the first two pieces of advice I would have given.
 
No chance AL brazing will work - you are wasting money even buying the rod.

Your best chance at permanent repair is to remove the old patch by drilling out the pop rivets. Clean off all the silly seal.

At that point you can either weld on patches or rivet using solid rivets & a patch that conforms to the hull shape. If you rivet, ther are more appropriate sealants, like Gluvit.
 
I too have never seen any of the DIY tin brazing or welding rods work.

I’d use West Systems G-Flex 650 flexible epoxy; the kit is ~$22 and there’s PDFs and pictures I’ve posted on here about using it and latching large holes.

There are a few PDFs posted, but the one about ‘holes‘ is 1/2-way down the page: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40954&hilit=650+west+pdf

7240E7CC-B9EE-4ACD-BFD2-A68413354B98.jpeg

Prep will be key! Remove all silicones and note it can actually harm tin. I’d wash/scrub the area well w/ vinegar and a copper scrubbie to acid etch it, then dry thoroughly and apply the 650 w/ heat per West’s instructions.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I was afraid those brazing rods look to good to be true. Even tho it’s the best option, I’m not sure if I want to embark on completely removing the sealant and plate. I forgot to mention in original post I was also thinking of covering with jb marine. I will definitely look into the g flex.

@DaleH thanks for the recommendation and references. Just to clarify, your suggesting leave the plate on, as is, and just seal the perimeter with the g flex?

Thanks everyone!
 
Western14’ said:
Just to clarify, your suggesting leave the plate on, as is, and just seal the perimeter with the g-flex?
I would, why not? You said 'as it' it barely added 1/2" of water for the day, so it appears integral. G-Flex will only help with that, so I say ... if not broke, don't fix it.

Oh, was at my local boat store today (not West Marine) and the G-Flex 650 kit was only $23. Should last you a lifetime ...
 
I would drill out and replace the rivets closest to the big gaps. Once those are closed up you can try sealing the seams.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone, it seems like gflex is the winning horse. I’m afraid even if i replace the rivets, it will not close the gap anything significant due to the existing silicone between the plate and hull. I might be able heat the plate (thus melting the silicone out), wipe clean, then replace the rivets (hopefully minimizing the gap) but I’m afraid that’s just gonna create more problems. Glad to have the options to think about tho guys, appreciate ya all!!
 
The best thing to remember is to not over complicate. Remove the existing patch. Clean the area. Lay on a good sealant such as 5200 and re-rivet with closed end rivets or use quality bolts and lock nuts.
 
samuelh1987 said:
Clean the area. Lay on a good sealant such as 5200 and re-rivet ...
No, sorry ... PRIME the area first ... always prime tin with an acid-etching primer, regardless of the goop used, or your tin will look like this!

.
Aluminum Corrosion, Protected vs Unprotected.jpg
 
I never had a whole lot of luck with those aluminum rods either. Even if you could get them to work, I'd be worried that they would eventually crack with all of the flexing that area is going to see.

Honestly I probably wouldn't put too much work into it. Maybe if you're never going to be on big water and it's basically a pond hopper. I just wouldn't feel safe in it on big water.

I had a 14' Quachita with a similar gash. I did what was done to your boat, fastened a patch over the hole with 3M 5200 over it. It did work, but I never felt safe in that boat and left it sitting by a local private pond that I like to fish, as a rowboat.
 
Thanks for all the input guys, I’ve considered and learned a few things for sure. “Do not over complicate” Great advice because I was starting to feel paralysis from analysis. I have to keep telling myself that I used the boat for a year without major incidents and it wasn’t the old silicone keeping the boat together. I ditched the brazing rods idea and went ahead and ordered the Gflex. I believe I got the area clean enough as is. I plan on leaving the existing patch and wiping the area clean with mineral spirits, laying a couple coats of self etching primer then finish off with the gflex.

The next question is about the bunk material. Carpet or vinyl downspout? Which do you think would be less destructive (abrasive) and better for the gflex to slide on?

Thanks again to everyone who offered their insight. It’s truly appreciated!
 

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