floatation replacement

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gunny146

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Finally stopped lurking and signed up. I have a question about replacing the floatation in my jon boat. I have an older 1432 that I plan on removing the seats and put in a bow to stern 1/2 carpeted floor with a small deck (with storage compartment) up front for the foot control trolling motor. I plan on adding 2 swivel seats fore and aft with a storage compartment (with possible small livewell) in between that goes form port to starboard and deck to gunwale. I also plan on installing another small storage area at the stern. I will use the framing of the storage compartments to act as reinforcements for the hull since I will be removing the seats. My question is what do I need to use to replace the flotation lost with the removal of the seats? I do not want to lose the boat during rain or in the event it gets swamped. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have not started any of the mods yet, but I will be getting started soon. I just want to have as many bases covered before I begin. Thanks in advance for the help>
 
Closed cell foam.

The sheet stuff that you can get at home building supply centers that is used for exterior insulation works well.
 
I have looked at that, but was unsure of its water resistance. Do you by chance know how much to use considering the boat size?
 
I am afraid I don't.

There are guys on this forum that have used it. Maybe they can give you a rough estimate.
 
I'm not sure how much either.If you make blocks out of builders sheet foam,wrap it tightly with plastic and seal the seams with clear shipping tape.This keeps water and mold out.
 
Figure out how much the finished hull is going to weigh, then add in all the extra stuff (motor, batteries, fuel etc). That is the amount of weight you will need to displace. Proly gonna be close to 1100 pounds for your rig.

Two part foam is the best, and is USCG approved, closed cell, gas and oil resistant. I use two part foam from Bateau
Two Part Foam
They have the best price around.

1 cubic foot of water weighs 62 pounds and the foam weighs 2 pounds per cubic foot, so each cubic foot of cured foam gives you 60 pounds of flotation. Then just do the math.

Also consider that your wood will give you some of the buoyancy needed. You can find wood densities online.

I would use the blue sheet foam on the underside of the decks. You can use liquid nails to glue it to the underside of the decks. This will keep it out of the water and fuel, out of the way and provide sound deadening from dropped items. I would not place it anywhere it may come in contact with water for long periods or fuel in the event of a capsize. It is not USCG approved.

If you modify the flotation of a boat and then sell it you may be liable for damages resulting from the removal or use of non-approved flotation. As long as you never sell it you will be fine, just something to consider.

The other thing to consider is the attitude of a swamped boat. In a vessel with good placement of foam it is likely that you will be able to self recover in a boat that keeps an upright attitude. If your flotation placement causes the boat to list you may not be able to self recover, not to mention loosing items in the boat (gear, batteries etc). Generally you want more flotation where there is more weight (usually aft), some at midships and some in the stem for upright and level flotation in the event of a capsize or swamp. Worst case scenario for flotation is to keep the boat in a position so you can stay with the boat for rescue; it is easier for SAR personnel (or other boaters) to see a big boat than a small person all alone on the water.

Approved foam is a small investment when you consider the potential losses; your vessel or a life.
 
Rat said:
Approved foam is a small investment when you consider the potential losses; your vessel or a life.


I concur. I'd rather have a bit too much foam then not enough.
 

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