Replacing Rivets in the hull~is there a tutorial here?

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YamahaC40Guy

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Looking around online, I can't find any info on doing this. I may try to take-on the repair job on my boat, but this is an obstacle I need to overcome. It would seem that the "pros" around here either don't want to touch it, or they want to retire with what they would make from the repair. :shock: I've seen some people discussing using them, but I want all the info I can before going this route.

Thanks,
Rob
 
Alright. I'll get one soon. Brine has been pushing me to write one for months now. I'll write complete with pictures when I go to put this Alumacraft back together next week.
 
So, my question about the marine rivets was born out of my plan to take-on this repair myself. This is that thread; https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10369 Having talked to every marine service place within a 50 mile radius of home here, I think I've arrived at a plan. First-off, about 1/2 the places I talked to suggested that I take it to the shop that quoted me $1500 for the repair. Two of the others suggested that I reinforce/back-p the damaged area with a pc. of 1/16" aluminum sheet, with a liberal amount of urethane/marine caulking between IT, and the hull. They also suggested that I use standard pop rivets, and gob some of this caulking over them on the outside/inside. Having looked at the options, I was told that this style is almost totally self-sealing.

https://www.avdel-global.com/en/products/breakstem-fasteners/avex.html

Unless bassboy1 has his tutorial up soon, I may try this out. Any thoughts?
 
I been on the prowl for a video but can't find one that is really clear.Aircraft and boats are rivet in the same way.Aircraft are just a bigger pain in the back side.It took us 14 hours and thousands upon thousands of rivets to re-skin a pair of Cessna 172 wings.Not to mention the tiny areas to try and get your arm and tools into.
 
First off if it is not too close to the riveted seam have the break welded. (Like BassBoy said you do not want to get the seam area to hot, it will damage the gasket) Then Aluminum and rivets are not that hard to work with. Go ahead and try it yourself. I would drill out grind off any rivets in the brace next to the break, fit a patch piece of .100 or .125 thick aluminum to the inside of the hull (run it under 1 or 2 braces) in the break and oil canning area drill a couple of holes sized right for rivets, use temporary bolts in these holes to hold the pieces in place. Take it back out temporary use the 5200 3M sealer between the boat hull and the patch piece you have fitted to the hull. Bolt it in place with temporary bolts in the 2 holes you have drilled. Start next to one of your bolts and work around the piece drilling a hole and then putting in a rivet. Use the solid aluminum rivets like came in the boat. You can order them from Grainger for about $12.00 per 100. Get a about 20 oz. hammer to hit the rivets with and a 5 lb sledge hammer to hold against the head of the rivet on the outside of the boat. Hit the rivets square on the end, they brad easy, you do not have to hit hard. I like 1/4" diameter body and 3/8" length rivets for most repairs on boats, but alot of boats come with 3/16" diameter body and 3/8" length rivets which are fine, but if you damage a hole taking a rivet out you can drill the hole out bigger and use the 1/4" diameter rivet. I think you can probably do this repair your self for well under $100 and a couple of afternoons. If you are uncomfortable spend $12.00 on rivets and a few bucks on a piece of sheet aluminum from Home Depot or Tractor Supply and play around a little, rivet the pieces together and maybe try to bend and fit it to the boat hull....I think you will find it a repair you can do and be proud of. If you decide you don't want to fix it yourself you are only out a few bucks.

Good Luck
FlintCreek
 
Flintcreek pretty much covered it in a nutshell. When I put that boat together, I'll get a tutorial written, but in the mean time, the only thing I can ad to that is that if you have access to an air chisel, buy the correct rivet set from aircraftspruce.com and use the air chisel. The rivet sets have the tip exactly matching the rivet, so it won't flatten the rivet head, as a hammer does. There is no harm in flattening the head, save for the appearance.
 
Bassboy how expensive is the rivet set for a air chisel? If it is not too expensive it might be something I might be interested in. I will take a look at the website aircraftspruce.com.

Thanks, I try to learn something new every day...
Flintcreek
 
You can get them as cheap as 5 bucks a piece, plus shipping from them. Also check ebay. There are often good priced lots of 5 or 6 size sets listed.
 

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