What kind of screws for attaching seat base?

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are you attaching it to a wood deck or aluminum? if wood it doesnt really matter but if you are attaching it to the ribs in the floor i would use stainless steel lag bolts.

I am going to attach my wood flooring to the ribs of my boat tomorrow. I recommend stainless steel because it wont rust or react with the aluminum. I also suggest lag bots because they wont strip out like screw would.
 
i would just use a cheap steel lag bolt or galvanised if you dont want it to rush. I had to use them on my first mod(the white boat).

Just predrill your holes and they will work great. Also they wont strip out.
 
If you can get under it use a nut and bolt.. I used galvanized 3/8 bolts on mine with lock nut underneath and big ole washers..
 
Any chance of getting to the bottom side of the 2 by? If so, I would through bolt it, with fender washer and nyloc nut (or if you want to go real fancy, make your own nut out of a piece of 3/8 aluminum barstock, and fit it to your structure). Use a flat head, or oval head (see link), on the top, and it will have a smooth appearance. That base should use 1/4 inch bolts.

https://www.peaksight.com/html/pro_fastener_machine_screw.htm
 
Nick Jones said:
i would just use a cheap steel lag bolt or galvanised if you dont want it to rush. I had to use them on my first mod(the white boat).

Just predrill your holes and they will work great. Also they wont strip out.


This is 1 1/2 inch long. I would think that a 2 inch bolt would be all you would need but i would not go any shorter.
 

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I can get under it, but the 2x sits on top of the bench, so whatever is through the wood needs to sit flush.. thats why I figure I'll just have to throw a big ol screw through it. Unless, of course, I run a bolt through the 2x first, and have the bolts on top of the seat base... I'd just rather stick with something that sits flush so when the seat post isn't in it, you're not stubbing toes on it and what not
 
i agree! that is why is was suggesting a lag bolt. you always have your feet up under your seat and in the summer it will be nagging if you have sandles on.
 
Nick Jones said:
well? if you can get to the back of it, use the same bolt as the front but only longer. My bad! i thought you said you couldn't get to the back of it. just drill it out and put a nut on it brother.


See above post ^
 
Cut a hole in the bench so you can get your hands in there to affix the nuts.. That sucker will be rock solid... :mrgreen: Im a fat guy, so i have to look for every way to beef stuff up :) Obviously from your avatar you dont have that problem... =D>
 
Haha thanks. I'm going to give it some more though, because I'd really prefer to use carriage bolts for all the seat bases. They give a clean look, are smooth and toe friendly, and are rock solid.

Maybe I could over drill a hole in the bottom of the 2x2, stick the nut in there, then bolt from the top with a bolt/screw... :-k

Luckily I have another week to think it over before I begin... =P~
 
I have the same seat bases. I want them as flat as possible. So after I find a suitable location I will be drilling a 2.5" hole to accept the shank, and then use stainless deck screws in pre drilled pilot holes right through the wood and aluminum. It will not fail, no matter how fat you are. The boat would sink from excess weight, before those bases ever come loose. Plus the stainless will take an extremely long long time before it ever starts to corrode the aluminum.
Here is something very close to what I'm gonna use and I only have 1/2" wood benches with foam underneath.
https://www.robertsonscrew.com/images/4142_lrg.jpg
There seems to be a small misconception about stainless not corroding aluminum. It does corrode aluminum, it just takes 10 times longer than steel.

No sharp edges, and looks clean, UNLESS you round the heads off the screws...lol [-X
=D>
the screws come in all sorts of sizes and coatings, I'm sure HD will have. Keep it simple...
 

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