Transom issues

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Pruitt1222

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Location
Owensboro,Kentucky
Well I am new to the site and the boating world, Been looking for a jon for almost 2 years now. Went and found one to day I really liked, Its a rhyan craft 14 footer. I studied the boat over like a noob and bought it. I really like how the floor is versus other jons I have looked at and I thought the price was good. So got it home and ripped into it eager to mod like so many of you, I pulled the deck up and found lots and lots of transon rot. I know it has to be fixed I got started on it and I have a few questions I am hoping you guys can help me with. How does one install a new transom in one of these boats without cutting it all apart. Is it even possible? I notice the gussets on the top of the corner are stright up in the way, Do these need to be cut out and re welded? And what is the best material to rebuild the transom out of and where to get it. And does it have to be one piece? By the way its a 84 model if that helps any.
 
:WELCOME:

Thanks for joining!

Everything can be fixed, so don't worry. If you can post up some pictures of the boat and problem areas, these guys will be able to point you in the right direction...guaranteed.

Jim
 
It would really help to see pics. With mine, I didn't have to do any cutting but I did have to remove all the support structure and rivet it back in after.
 
It won't be as bad as you think. Give us some pictures to work with and everyone will be glad to help.
 
THIS SITE "WILL" help you fix your boat,as Jim said...

this site also "THRIVES" on pictures, as you can tell from members' responses...

congrats on the new boat. hope to see your progress?

=D> =D> =D>
 
So here you guys go some pictures. In these pictures I have already removed the old transom and preped for the new one. Probably went about it all wrong but you can tell me what ya think.
 

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Learning how to do multiples
 

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I figure I could have did worse, Haven't priced the wood yet but as of right now I got less then 3 bills in it.
 

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So tomorrow I am gonna start calling around and looking for new transom material. Do I need any thing special or would a piece of marine grade plywood work? Do I need to coat it with any thing befor reinstalling it? What about where I drill the holes to mount it, Anything needed there? And how do you go about water proofing all of the screw heads after its done? But most importantly if I cant find it locally is there any good places online to get the wood? You guys would be glad to know I am going to strart stripping her down later tonite for steelflex.
 
Looks like you are doing exactly what you need to do to get that transom replaced. Use outdoor rated plywood and build a lamination to the thickness you need for your transom. Marine ply is stronger for a number of reasons, but about 2-3 times the cost. You can use a good quality outdoor glue, epoxy glue or liquid nails for siding to glue up the laminations. A laminated transom is a LOT stronger than a single board transom. You may already know this, but NO TREATED lumber in the boat.

Treating the transom, and other wood, can be done several ways. Most people on tin boats use a wood sealer like Thompson's to keepit from rotting; you can also use epoxy.

Sealing the holes is pretty simple but may take some time. since my build is largely epoxy/glass composite I potted all the bolt and most of the screw holes. That is, a drilled them over sized, filled them with epoxy glue and then re-drilled them for the correct size bolt or screw. But like I said, that is a lot of work. You can just as easily use 5200 or even 4200 (above the water line) for the screws and bolts. Just pre-drill the screw/bolt hole, squirt a little 4200/5200 in it and then drive the screw or insert the bolt. This will protect the wood as well as keep any bolts and screws from backing out due to vibration. 5200 is considered a permanent set but better below the water line, 4200 is considered semi-permanent and best if used above the water line. Screws driven into 5200 CAN be removed though.

The best place for marine wood online I have found is:
Boat Builder Central PLywood
You can also read about the differences between the grades and types of wood.
 
So are you saying I dont have to use marine grade, Just a good out door grade? I do like the ideal of laminating two pieces together, it needs to be a inch thick. Should I use 1/2 or 15/32 so I have a extra 1/16 for glue space? As for drilling the holes I figured I would do just that, Put the new transom in place then drill the holes. Pull it out and redrill them 3/16 over, fill them with epoxy and repeat step one. Please keep in mind I am a noob, Please expain the 5200 and 4200. Is that like waterproof tread lock/lock tight? Thanks for the help Rat, that covered alot of my questions.
 
Pruitt1222 said:
Forgot to ask why NO TREATED lumber?

Pressure treated lumber is copper impregnated. Copper and aluminum don't get along very well, and this dissimilar metals corrosion is expedited by the addition of a marine environment, which is hard on even a stable combination of materials.

Treating the transom, and other wood, can be done several ways. Most people on tin boats use a wood sealer like Thompson's to keepit from rotting; you can also use epoxy.
I use spar varnish. Little more labor intensive, but well worth it in my opinion.

So are you saying I dont have to use marine grade, Just a good out door grade?
Correct. I try to stay away from the low sheathing grade of plywood, but the next grade up is usually fine.

As for drilling the holes I figured I would do just that, Put the new transom in place then drill the holes. Pull it out and redrill them 3/16 over, fill them with epoxy and repeat step one.
You can do that, but you would be just as well off doing what Rat posted after that idea. Will save you some work, and the outcome is about the same.
You can just as easily use 5200 or even 4200 (above the water line) for the screws and bolts. Just pre-drill the screw/bolt hole, squirt a little 4200/5200 in it and then drive the screw or insert the bolt. This will protect the wood as well as keep any bolts and screws from backing out due to vibration.

Please expain the 5200 and 4200.
It is a marine sealant, made by 3M. Can be purchased at Lowes, Walmart etc. Can be purchased for 3 times the price at West Marine, Boaters World, etc.
I use 5200 for just about everything. Don't know if I've ever even bought a tube of 4200.
 
Pruitt1222 said:
So are you saying I dont have to use marine grade, Just a good out door grade? I do like the ideal of laminating two pieces together, it needs to be a inch thick. Should I use 1/2 or 15/32 so I have a extra 1/16 for glue space? As for drilling the holes I figured I would do just that, Put the new transom in place then drill the holes. Pull it out and redrill them 3/16 over, fill them with epoxy and repeat step one. Please keep in mind I am a noob, Please expain the 5200 and 4200. Is that like waterproof tread lock/lock tight? Thanks for the help Rat, that covered alot of my questions.

Nope, just a good outdoor grade ply will work. 15/32 will work fine, it's what I used. If it turns out too thick you can sand a little down on the sides to get it to fit in the side thrust blocks, very easy.

5200, 4200 and 8200 are all marine sealants and glues. Made by 3M you can find them just about anywhere.
Here is the West Marine page for them: Click Me

No treated wood in Alu. hulls because a chemical in the treated lumber reacts with the Alu. and causes pitting and corrosion.
 
Thanks for clearing all that up BassBoy, This site is going to make my build much easier and cheaper. I guess my next step is going to lowes in a few to get the goods I will need. As far as clamping the two pieces together what is the easiest method here? Just a few 1inch deck screws till it dries or what?
 
I screwed mine in to keep it together while I clamped it - then removed the screws. to clamp, I put it on a table and placed batteries on the middle, clamps around the outside.

On the wood, I used marine plywood. To find it I called the local wood dealers and asked if they had any or if they knew where I could get it. Three recommended the same place, so I went there - $100 later I had a 3/4 sheet of overpriced plywood :)

I treated it with epoxy before install.

Have fun with it!
 
When I replaced my transom I did the 2 layers of 1/2 plywood then I added a 1"x6"x48" Oak board glued and screwed to the transom. I am running a 25hp motor.
 
Well I got my transom rebuilt tonight, A lot easier then I would have thought. I still have some questions about the final install however. How do you keep the bolts/screws on the outside from leaking and where is the best place to buy the ss hardware? I am kinda leaning towards fastenal over lowes or other local hardware stores. Looks like I can get [25] 1/4"x2' ss bolts and nuts for 15 chips, Is this on par with other places? And I know it didn't happen without pictures so here you guys "and maybe a few girls on this site" go. Oh and how many coats of water sealer should I put on the transom? I figered I would put another on befor I complete the install but was wondering how many coats most people apply?
 

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Use can use marine sealant, 3m 5200, to seal around the bolts. If you get them tight and use the sealant properly you should have a leak free boat. Maybe try to bolt above the waterline if thats at all possible......
 

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