First things first

Well the Tracker Topper 1436 is rated for a 15 HP. The weight of the boat is approx 113 and the transom height is 16”. Max weight capacity is 580 lbs. So here are a few items that I have been told should be first on the list.
1. A custom battery box mounted just aft of the front lip.
2. One of two materials as a front casting deck. I am on the fence between marine grade plywood and aluminum composite.
3. Layout of conduit and electrical path and design.
4. Horse Power considerations.
I will start with the first 2 of these series of considerations.

I am going to build the entire infrastructure out of Aluminum. I am going to weld the “skeleton” in my machine shop and plan to “skin” it all with Aluminum composite.

I am in the sign and graphics business and have lots of tools at my disposal. A CNC router, 2 UV flatbed presses that allow me to print directly to the substrate as well as a fully operational machine shop.

Here is where my concern for proper balance and weight comes in. A 4’x8’ sheet of ¾” treated plywood weighs in at approx 100 lbs, non treated is 75lbs. A 4’x8’ sheet of 5MM Apolic(Alum Comp) weighs 8.5 lbs. I can finish both on the CNC router but the intricate details I am planning are a lot easier with the Apolic. I am planning on doing some custom slots for fly boxes as well as a waterproof fly box on the bench seat. Waterproofing all compartments will be easier with a "factory" egde IMO. Plywood is natural and shrinks and expands so that in my mind eliminates wood.

How do you “weigh” the options when it comes to infrastructure construction? I want the boat to be flat once up on plane and don’t want to lose power because I am weighed down with heavy materials. On the other hand I don’t want to be too light to where the aft end in much lower in the water. Sorry for the long winded post but I plan on investing some coin in this boat and as the rest of you, want it to be a one of a kind work of art. I am ears and eyes wide open to your council and criticism and so grateful I have discovered this board Thanks, Luke

Sounds like you've got a plan, and having all the machines/tools at your disposal will probably make the mods a lot easier.


Moved this post to Boat House, until you start the modifications and post pics of it (if possible). Looking forward to seeing your rig.

Thanks for the move. Please excuse the newbie :roll:

No problem, and Welcome! 8)

Battery box: Better to keep it low in the hull, like just forward of the midseat or just aft of the midseat. Closer to the bow puts the weight higher (moving the center of gravity higher) and also causes you to run with a lower bow. A lower heavier bow will pound more in chop, a lighter bow will run higher and with less weight get up and over the chop easier. You don't run into a bow steer problem on flatbottoms but it is still easier to take angling chop and waves with less weight in the bow.

Decking: First, you don't need 3/4 inch ply, 1/2 inch will do fine. I don't know what the structural specs for Apolic are but I think you will need considerably more framing for Apolic than ply. If you are going to build your framing the same regardless of what deck material you choose then I would use Apolic for the reasons you mentioned (easier cutting, lighter weight etc). Plus it would be cool to see one go together using this material.

Electrical: lots of ways to do this, under the ribs, in the void of the splash rail; it just depends on how the decking is going to be laid out as to where you will need to run the conduit.

Power: A good friend of mine runs a 20 HP on his 1436 with no problems; it is tiller drive. I don't think it is a Tracker, but maybe it is. It is riveted I know that.

I used 15/32 ply in my build with glass and epoxy. The only framing I have are .5 x 1 cleats along the hull and a single frame aft of the front seat with a stiffener. There is no "framing" going down to the ribs or anything; this is a considerable weight savings I was able to take advantage of because of my choice of decking.

Build her as light as you can and adjust the trim with the motor adjustment and the movable ballast in the boat. Keep the heavy stuff in the center (or just off of center to counter the pilot when singlehanding) and low. Then you can use livewells and fuel cans to adjust the trim on the fly. It is difficult to build a perfectly trimmed small craft for all situations, usually you will need to move some ballast at some point.

Now were talkin! Thanks Rat!