Transom replacement?

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musikman43155

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I recently bought a 1962 Arkansas Traveler for $400 including a trailer. The boat had a camo paint job with "shark teeth" which I decided to paint over. I used scotch brite pads to scuff up the existing paint and painted over it with olive drab Rustoleum xtra flat spray paint.

The boat is in decent shape, but, the bottom of the boat had quite a bit of damage from former multiple owners. The Boat has been patched and did not leak from the patch. The stern looked like that of a golf ball.

Now, on the boat's "maiden voyage" it leaked like a siv from the transom. We were on the boat for 5 hours and probably took on about 5 gallons or more of water.

Today, I filled the boat with 10 gallons of water and tipped it back, finding all of the leaky rivets. The prior owner had also installed a depth finder in the stern with 4 mismatched screws.

So, the transom is riveted to the boat, with an additional brace @ the bottom. How should I go about replacing the transom without having to re-rivet the boat? I'll try to take photos tomorrow if possible.

Thanks, sorry for the windy first post.

This is a photo of a similar Arkansas Traveler, but, the brace on my boat is square shaped..


 
You can take the old transom out and instead of putting rivets back in to hold the transom to the hull you can use stainless screws or stainless bolts with nuts on the inside. I poured a solid glass transom for one of my boats and then drilled holes and put 1/4-20 bolts with screw heads through it and put the nuts on the inside and it is still going strong.
 
Will galvanized carriage bolts work? Or should you use stainless hex bolts? Also why do the nuts go on the inside?

Not trying to thread jack just trying to learn.

Thanks,

Jason
 

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I would use stainless anytime I could get my hands on them. Everything else will rust.

I put the bolt heads on the outside with the nuts to the inside to protect the nut side of the bolt. When they are on the outside you have more chance hitting them on something and breaking off
 
russ010 said:
I would use stainless anytime I could get my hands on them. Everything else will rust.

I put the bolt heads on the outside with the nuts to the inside to protect the nut side of the bolt. When they are on the outside you have more chance hitting them on something and breaking off


Thanks,

I will get some ss bolts from the depot. Anybody have a size recommendation?
 
Is the OP wanting to replace the transom wood or the entire transom because of it's condition?
 
Quackrstackr said:
Is the OP wanting to replace the transom wood or the entire transom because of it's condition?

Just the transom wood. It's just the fact that it has three points where the braces are riveted to the bottom and sides of the boat.

How should I remove the rivets? Could I use a dremel and cut the heads off, then tap them out?

I'll go take some better photos to show you what I mean.
 
Here's the boat & then the actual transom.

ARK_TRAV.jpg

AT_transom-1.jpg
 
Hammer and chisel the rivets out.

Why use stainless...because it doesn't rust.

Why put the nuts on the inside...Because I don't use a hex head bolt. I use a screw head bolt(machine screw) and that leaves the outside of the transom smooth with nothing to hang up on. Thats just my opinion. Plus if for what ever reason you lost a nut, you would find it in the bottom of the boat. I use self locking/nylon locking nuts and this is rarely a problem. But either way this should work for you, with out having to re-rivet everything back.
 
huntinfool said:
Hammer and chisel the rivets out.

Why use stainless...because it doesn't rust.

Why put the nuts on the inside...Because I don't use a hex head bolt. I use a screw head bolt(machine screw) and that leaves the outside of the transom smooth with nothing to hang up on. Thats just my opinion. Plus if for what ever reason you lost a nut, you would find it in the bottom of the boat. I use self locking/nylon locking nuts and this is rarely a problem. But either way this should work for you, with out having to re-rivet everything back.


Thanks Man - I got the exact screw top bolts that you were talking about at lunch with self locking nuts and washers. I will probably install them tonight or tomorrow.
 

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