Bow mount troller install

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Gamefisher

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Quakertown, PA
Late last summer I bought a vintage bow-mount Minn-kota cheap. It was sold as needing a control cable, but all it needed was a set screw to retain the cable in the housing, and I found the set screw loose when I opened it up!

So today I started building the mount for it. Started with a piece of 3/4" ply, cut it to shape, and test-fit the motor.

I am not sure how I want to secure it to the boat yet though. Just some brackets to the side? A couple of 2x4s across? In that case I could either put a couple screws right into the end of the 2x4, or would it be better to use a bracket with 4 bolts through the hull on each side? I would appreciate any suggestions.

Matt
 

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Nice work on the fit around the bow! And good deal on finding it was just a loose setscrew on the tm. How much bracing is under the plywood? If moveable, could you take a pic or two of the underside of the plywood?
 
What ever you do be sure you have enough support to hold the motor or I see you holding on for dear life like that bill dance video.!!!
 
Did you see my thread at the bottom of this forum, on how I mounted my powerdrive on my 12 footer. It didn't involve any holes in the hull. Now, the one problem I found, when I started to mount my new MK all terrain the other day, is the lack of support near the head. In my powerdrive, the weight is all in the base. But, the all terrain has a lot of weight in the head, as the steering system is up there, not in the base. When I had it clamped up there, it felt like it was trying to rip my mount off, when stowed. So, on the end of the mount, near the head, there is a little rubber block, obviously meant to support the head. So, there needs to be something that supports that. While you are test fitting it, go ahead and stow it, and see if you need some support back there. Better to find that out now, while in the planning stage, than later on.
 
Bassboy, yes I did, but I'm a little concerned about the stress that setup would put on these fiberglass rails. They are more flexible then aluminum. Plus, I really don't mind putting holes in this boat. All the weight on this one is in the bottom. The only thing in the top is a small chain that is connected to the shaft and the control cable.

Redbug, I'll let esquired be the first to try it out, and I'll videotape.
 
Sorry, it is all fiberglass! There is also a glass bench seat about 7" under where the board is positioned, so I can utilize somehow if needed. In this picture you can see what it looks like underneath that.
 

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Okay, I was originally thinking about possibly having some aluminum braces welded to the inside of the hull (going from side to side), but seeings how it's fiberglass that won't work. You could possibly fabricate a wooden structure that connects to the seat and the sides (below the gunwale), you'd just have to ensure there was no play in the mounting so as not to wobble-out the bolt/screw holes and possibly cause cracking to the fiberglass.
 
I would use that seat in some way. That would give it a lot more strength, and rigidity, than mounting to the gunwales alone would. That seat should have a majority of the strength that the bow of that boat has.
 
Gamefisher said:
Redbug, I'll let esquired be the first to try it out, and I'll videotape.

What the heck? :p

Gamefisher - bring the boat around in the spring and I will help you make something, I am thinking of cross bracing the bow and the mounting a block above the top rail that extends far enough over to mount the motor.

Your sides have way too much flex to just clamp anything to them
 
I finished up version 1 of this project. I say version 1, because I may add reinforcements. I attached 4 2x4 blocks to the to the inside of the hull, then a 2x4 across the rear set of blocks. The plywood is attached to the crossbar, and the two forward blocks. I will seal and carpet it after I'm sure it is strong enough.

Matt
 

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