Cutting Aluminum

I am sure this has probably been discussed elsewhere, but I can't find anything.

I just placed my order for a Tracker 1542 LW and the first thing I am going to do is install a storage hatch/bin in the rear seat, so I am going to have to cut a hole in the seat and remove some of the styrofoam. What is the best kind of tool for cutting aluminum? I am assuming a jigsaw. Is there a type of blade that works best?

Secondly, what is the best way to dig out the styrofoam. Ideally I would like to just take out enuogh styrofoam to accomodate the bin.

I am not too anxious to start cutting holes in a brand new boat and want to make sure I do it right!

All advice is greatly appreciated!


Cheers,
BC

I drilled a 3/8" hole in each corner, then ran a jig saw with a metal blade down the marks where I cut it out.

Then I just took a hacksaw blade (not in the saw, just the blade) and cut the Styrofoam out. I took a clothes hanger, opened it up and pushed it in at an angle and up it came. I did cut the Styrofoam into sections

you can see the after pics of how I did it in my other boat... I just drew the lines and started cutting

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4493&hilit=alumacraft+1236+makeover&start=50

I keep an old bread knife in the shop for cutting foam. Does a purty good job.

I cut the 1/4" aluminum plates for my seats with a B&D 18 tooth metal blade in the jig saw. My stuff was thick so I hade to go slow.

I cut the 1/4" aluminum plates for my seats with a B&D 18 tooth metal blade in the jig saw. My stuff was thick so I hade to go slow.

Click to expand...

x2. the 16-18 should work good. if you've got thinner aluminum you can go down to a 20-24 for a cleaner cut

Great advice. Thanks fellas.

I found that giving a shot of WD40 to your blade every so often while your cutting helps to get through it much faster. Same goes for your drill bits!
Not TOO much though, because it can also make your jigsaw blade slip out of the saw.

Was just talking about this at work today.Not sure if it works or help but i am going to try it.
A guy said if you would use paraffin(wax used in canning preserves) put it on the blade and he said it helps.
If you try let me know how it works.It is to help with the alum sticking in the teeth ,and with smooth cut??????

caveman said:

Was just talking about this at work today.Not sure if it works or help but i am going to try it.
A guy said if you would use paraffin(wax used in canning preserves) put it on the blade and he said it helps.
If you try let me know how it works.It is to help with the alum sticking in the teeth ,and with smooth cut??????

Click to expand...

Yep. It works. Beeswax does to, if you have a readily available supply of it. I've also used the Lenox Lube Tube with good results when I can't get beeswax.
https://www.lenoxsaw.com/enUS/Product/LUBE_TUBE.html

Anything you can use to dissipate heat will improve the cut. That includes water. Chances are the jigsaw won't get hot enough to really need any lube, but when you are using a bandsaw, or drill press or the likes, dissipating heat is important for blade/bit life, as well as cut quality. If you see smoke, it is good. The lubricant is doing it's job - dissipating heat in the form of smoke.

caveman said:

Was just talking about this at work today.Not sure if it works or help but i am going to try it.
A guy said if you would use paraffin(wax used in canning preserves) put it on the blade and he said it helps.
If you try let me know how it works.It is to help with the alum sticking in the teeth ,and with smooth cut??????

Click to expand...

My Dad just taught me this trick, and yes it works. Cutting our aluminum diamond plate was tough, because now that I think about it, it's 1/4" thick. The Paraffin wax certainly helped keep the blade clear by filling up the teeth.

I use a miter saw and a circular saw. just gotta be careful and go slow to keep it from grabbing the piece and hurting yourself.