If the motor is the original 1971 50 hp, don't buy it for the motor. Those stupid things had a hyroelectric shift on them, and it is only a matter of "when," not "if" the shift solenoids die, and they aren't made anymore, by anybody.
Is everyone just trying to get me to go aluminum because they're easier?
No, because their better, for something of this nature.
*Disclaimer - all generalized statements regarding fiberglass boats are to be directed at fiberglass of a similar age as the one mentioned in post number 1, NOT modern fiberglass boats.* (Some of y'all might remember a post last fall where I made generalized statements about fiberglass boats, intending them to be taken only in regard to older ones, then got my tail handed to me when many of my statements were refuted by facts from brand new rigs, of which the technology hadn't yet been discovered back in 1975).
Basically, you will be pouring money into a boat with no value. That's right, no value. I can show you about 10 on the atlanta craiglist people haven't been able to GIVE away. With an aluminum boat, there is ALWAYS some value. Even if you wreck it beyond repair, there will always be scrap value.
On these older fiberglass boats (remember the disclaimer, Rat :lol: ), the UV takes a serious toll on the materials of the boat. The gel coat is first to go, then the actual fiberglass starts to break down. UV doesn't do much of anything to an aluminum rig except fade the paint.
Older fiberglass boats are built around wood, encasing it with mat and resin. Water WILL get inside the glass (water will get into anywhere), and be trapped, rotting the wood out. Rot is bad news for boats of this nature. Aluminum boats don't have that problem. With the exception of the transom, which is still isn't encased with something that will trap water in, the structure of the hull isn't going to rot away. You can do whatever you want with the interior layout, but the majority of the structure of the hull is going to be sound (as far as water damage is concerned - abuse and wrecks obviously are going to be an issue, but they would be the same issue in both rigs, so I call that a moot point.
A full out restoration down to the stringers is a walk in the park, and is not cheap. What people (myself included) have no idea of, before their first boat project, is how they will nickle and dime you do death. You look at what you do have to spend or don't spend, then you get to all the little things that are 20 bucks here, 10 here, 25 for this or that, and they add up to several hundred very quickly, before you even start thinking about getting to the stuff you want for the boat. You're still paying for the stuff you need for the boat.
Is steelflex an option for glass boats?
If your boat is at the point at which you think steelflex might help, you really need to take it to the landfill. While I wouldn't personally use steelflex on any of my rigs (I prefer to fix a problem, not put a bandaid over it) it is much better suited for aluminum boats where you have thousands of rivets and seams, not a glass boat, where you have no rivets or seams to loosen up. If you've got a leak on a glass boat, something hasn't loosened up, somethings broken.
Think about it; it already has a motor, there's 400-600 saved right there.
That motor isn't worth 400. Highest I've seen one of those go for is 250, and that is with a stainless prop. I've sold one for 150, for parts.
We're not saying you can't create a nice boat with it. With enough work, and more importantly, a large enough wallet, you can. But, time and money wise, you would be much better off looking for something else, and I'm not necessarily saying aluminum either. A better condition glass boat might fit your needs, but I doubt that is the one you are looking for.
Now, I do know people who restore the older glass boats, but their goal is almost always to restore the boat, not have a nice boat at the end. They know they could buy a used one cheaper than restoring the free one, but their hobby is the actual work on the boat, so they don't mind.
