Flooring ?

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BassBlaster

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Location
Grove City, OH
I stopped into the construction safety store today that we rent all of our traffic control signs from at work. I asked if they had 8 or 10 signs that were slightly damaged that they was looking to scrap that they could sell me cheap. They took me around back where they store all thier damaged stuff and was gonna let me pick through it to see what I wanted. Then he says, just take the whole skid if you want. They wound up giving me 30 to 40 signs and most wernt even bent up. Some just have a screw hole or something in them. They actually give me enough that I think I could build a new boat out of the signs, lol. Most of them are the 48 X 48's but there are several differnt sizes. I have decided since I have so much material to just do my entire mod out of aluminum instead of plywood!!

My question is, what kinda spacing should I use to support the signs? Are the foam and stock ribs enough or should I add additional support. These signs look like they are a fuzz thicker than 1/16". Actually kinda look close to the thickness of the boat material itself.
 
I have 1/16" diamond tread on my floor. I believe that there is 12" inside measurement between my ribs. I do get some flexing, but no problems. I would secure 2"x4"'s on the ground (I would bust my you know what if I didn't secure them) and test different widths.
 
Thats a good idea. I was originally thinking that with the foam the flexing wouldnt be an issue but the more I think about it, its probably gonna wear out the foam over time. I'll tryit and see what kinda flex I get out of it.
 
Yeah, I definately have enough. I thought about that as well but I have a second boat that may get modded down the road so I wanna hang on to the extra material. Dont know how long it will be before they hook me up again!!
 
my entire floor is a big *** road sign that i bought at a scrap yard. it works great!!!! all you need is contact cement to put the carpet on (if you go the carpet route like I did)

before:

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Your thread is where I got the idea to use the signs. Yours looked like it was a giant highway type sign so I thought it may be thicker than what I have. Mine are various sizes but all the same thickness. How much flex do you get between the ribs? I'm gonna try it on 2 x 4's like mentioned earlier but I know its not gonna be as stiff as it would when actually attached to the boat.
 
Way to go,grand idea.I had a piece of that stuff ,and cut it down to size,it was from an old stop sign,very good aluminum I beleive it's a harder grade of alu.,Used it for a plate to put on the transom of a wooden boat,so that the motor screw downs dont chew up the wood,very resistant stuff.Congrats on the wise purchase,,,Mike
 
Note to self....find closest construction safety store.

Nice score. You could always get some 1" tubing and run them longitudinal on top of the ribs is you wanted to tighten up the spacing. Of course it would raise the bilge by an 1", but I'm guessing in most cases that would be just fine.

A 24ft stick of tubing goes for about $28 by me.
 
BassBlaster said:
Your thread is where I got the idea to use the signs. Yours looked like it was a giant highway type sign so I thought it may be thicker than what I have. Mine are various sizes but all the same thickness. How much flex do you get between the ribs? I'm gonna try it on 2 x 4's like mentioned earlier but I know its not gonna be as stiff as it would when actually attached to the boat.

i dont have alot of flex between the close ribs, but the two ribs closest to the back bench are about 1 foot and a half away and it flexes some there, but again, not too bad. My floor is not fastened in at all, its is held down by the side pieces and the front of the casting deck, so if i were to fasten it down, it would probably hold better.

Also, are you going to fasten it down, if so, i wouldne recommend the 2x4s, might be hard to fasten it to and have it carpeted. with mine, i have the option of riveting it down
 
The 2x4's wouldnt be part of the boat. Another member suggested using them on the garage floor to test how much flex I get with different widths apart to see if I need additional bracing. If I add bracing it will be aluminum. At this point I have decided to not use any wood on this build other than the transom which is allready replaced. I think if I rivet it down to every rib with the foam underneath, flex should be minimal. Thanks for the great idea with the signs, I never would have thought of that without reading your thread!!
 
Brine said:
Note to self....find closest construction safety store.

Nice score. You could always get some 1" tubing and run them longitudinal on top of the ribs is you wanted to tighten up the spacing. Of course it would raise the bilge by an 1", but I'm guessing in most cases that would be just fine.

A 24ft stick of tubing goes for about $28 by me.
The place I got my material from is called PSI (Protection Services Inc). I could be wrong but I think they may be a national company so there could be one local to you. If theres not a PSI there still has to be somplace that does the same thing. Tons of construction companies use the rental places because they become responsible for all the traffic control and detouring. We are also not responsible for the signage when it gets stolen which happens quite a bit when the price of scrap is up. I would assume most places would ask you to pay at least scrap price for thier old signs but that would be well worth the cost IMO. I got lucky and they just gave me all this material!!
 
Might as well stay away from any wood at this point. Can you stiffen up the decking just by adding aluminum tubing to the underside prior to laying it in the boat? Measure and rivet 2x2 tubing to fill the space/void between the ribs and then just drop into place and pop rivet to the ribs. Just a thought.
 
BassBlaster said:
The 2x4's wouldnt be part of the boat. Another member suggested using them on the garage floor to test how much flex I get with different widths apart to see if I need additional bracing. If I add bracing it will be aluminum. At this point I have decided to not use any wood on this build other than the transom which is allready replaced. I think if I rivet it down to every rib with the foam underneath, flex should be minimal. Thanks for the great idea with the signs, I never would have thought of that without reading your thread!!

lol, you have the same thinking as me. I didnt wanna use any wood either, but i would of had to buy another $55 sign to not use wood. BUT i HAD to use wood on my back seat to have enough thickness to mount my back seat to. 1 sheet was enough to do my front casting deck and rear bench. Also. i was gonna do like you and rivet my floor right to the ribs. Just make sure they are flat. Mine were not so i had to add bracing (1x1 angle) to make a flat surface
 

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