Rivets and such

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cmatthews_jm

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Since I am new to this forum and boat renovation, I have no idea how to use or where to even start with rivets. I think I can just start a list of questions and see what you guys can help me with.

1. Is the best method for renovating using rivets?
2. Whats the best way to rivet on a budget?
3. Manual, pneumatic, or some other method?

I guess I'll just leave it with those for now. Essentially I know nothing about rivets or the process so anything you guys could offer as advice would be great. Much appreciated.
 
IMO - the best way for me was to rivet my aluminum build but that is because I'm not very good at welding aluminum and I do not have a welder. They hold up very well and are easy to use.

The cheapest way to go about it would be to get your rivets from harbor freight. They have them pretty cheap. The cheapest I found and invest in a nice manual rivet gun. Don't buy one at Harbor freight, from my experience they are junk. Buy a decent one at Lowes or some hardware store.

Buy a couple(ten) extra drill bits because you will break them.
 
bulldog said:
IMO - the best way for me was to rivet my aluminum build but that is because I'm not very good at welding aluminum and I do not have a welder. They hold up very well and are easy to use.

The cheapest way to go about it would be to get your rivets from harbor freight. They have them pretty cheap. The cheapest I found and invest in a nice manual rivet gun. Don't buy one at Harbor freight, from my experience they are junk. Buy a decent one at Lowes or some hardware store.

Buy a couple(ten) extra drill bits because you will break them.


https://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=45272-412-RH200S&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1087313&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=sim&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Is that kind of what you're talking about as far as a manual rivet gun goes?

Also, for anyone to answer, what rivets would be best to use for fixing up about?
 
https://www.harborfreight.com/3x-air-riveting-hammer-with-5-piece-chisel-set-97857.html?utm_term=97857&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=nextag&hft_adv=10063
 
Troutman3000 said:
Thats a pop-rivet gun and you dont want to use those below the water line.

So what would be recommended below the water line?

Again, really not trying to be aggravating here, just really don't know much about riveting and wondering if I should learn how to weld...
 
I bought a pop rivet gun and couple of packs of stainless steel rivets from Home Depot. I forget how much they cost, but it wasn't very much. It works great. I have used it to install my deck hatches.
 
cmatthews_jm said:
Troutman3000 said:
Thats a pop-rivet gun and you dont want to use those below the water line.

So what would be recommended below the water line?

Again, really not trying to be aggravating here, just really don't know much about riveting and wondering if I should learn how to weld...

You have to buy the appropriate sized rivets for the hole you are using, and then buy something like the link I provided above to drive them. You will also need a backer to hold on teh other side of the rivet. You can also use a hammer and a hard piece of steel for the "backer" for a more manual setup. But for multiple rivets that would be time consuming and less exact.

Google installing a rivet and you will see what I am talking about.
 
Is there some sort of sealant I should use for applying rivets below the waterline or is there some other method I should consider.

Google helps but doesn't really show much about aquatic riveting...
 
I just stumbled upon some 'closed end rivets'. I thought that they would be better to use in the hull of the boat for repairs or what not. But is there something about the 'pop' rivet process that is bad for the hull or is it that most rivets have holes in them?
 
cmatthews_jm said:
I just stumbled upon some 'closed end rivets'. I thought that they would be better to use in the hull of the boat for repairs or what not. But is there something about the 'pop' rivet process that is bad for the hull or is it that most rivets have holes in them?


Closed end rivets will work. You can always add a dab of 5200 around them to make sure they hold forever. The other solid rivets are better if you need more strength if its an area where the hull may flex.
 
For my build, I am using pop rivets above the waterline and stainless hardware below. I would love to own a solid rivet gun like Troutman posted, but money is a bit of an issue right now. Not only that, but my air compressor wouldn't run that tool for more than a couple of seconds before running out of air.

For the few items that will be attached to the hull below the waterline, I am simply going to use stainless machine screws, washers, and nuts. I am going to coat the inside and outside of the hull with 3M 5200 Marine Sealant, then run my bolt through and tighten down the nut. My thought is that the 5200 should squish between the screw head on the outside of the hull and the washer on the inside, forming a tight seal. For extra insurance, I am going to coat over top the scerw head and nut/washer with the sealer. True, I won't be able to remove the bolt without cutting it off, but the same would hold true if it were a rivet.

Perhaps that isn't the best way to do it...but it's what I'm doing. I won't have more than four of these underwater screws, so I figure even if all four of the suckers fell completely out at the same time, my bail bucket and bilge pump would be more than enough to get me back to shore.
 
I think if I end up needing rivets below the waterline in the hull then I will just use closed end rivets with 5200 sealant on each of them in and outside of the hull. I think they should hold according to the literature that I have been reading on. I don't know if that helps but it sounds like a good idea.
 
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