transoms. lets see them transoms

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pussiwillow

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hello my 1232 has an 11 year old transom that was 12 wide" x the width of the boat long. this is how to previous owner had it, i drilled the rivits and pulled the old wood out. the transom is in bad shape, it was pushed in from what ever motor he had on it for 11 years. so i straightened it out best i could and can do better once i get a zero tollerance transom going on. im putting a 15 horse on this thing and i need to see how you guys took care of reinforcing your transoms to handle some bigger motors. i was thinking a really hard dense 1" wood the whole transom zero tollerance, and a 16" x 12" aluminum backing plate. but ive never built one of these and need to be pointed in the right direction. thank you for the time! -mat
 
When I bought my boat the transom wood was missing. I was able to figure out it was 1' thick 12" tall and 48" wide. I glued together 2 layers of 1/2" plywood and cut it to shape. Then I added a 1"x6"x48" oak board glued and screwed to the plywood.
 

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sixshootertexan said:
No wood for me. I went all aluminum.

Agreed. I had a shop weld this up and it works perfectly on my transom. At some point I'd like to build it high straight across but this works really well.

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those look great! thanks for the quick replies everyone. i see most of everyone has jack plates or raise the transom up higher, i have a short shaft 81 johnson. would it be wise to have a jack plate or raised transom?
 
The 25 hp mariner I have is a longer short shaft and the river I'm on can be very shallow.
 
here is mine. I made it from 2 pieces of plywood laminated together with carbon fiber sealed with the same and aluminum angle. I think it cost me around 20 bucks.
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Mini cuda i was wondering do you adjust you jackplate much or once you found your spot do you leve it there, cuz i been debating between making a manual or buying a hydrolic one.
 
pussiwillow said:
those look great! thanks for the quick replies everyone. i see most of everyone has jack plates or raise the transom up higher, i have a short shaft 81 johnson. would it be wise to have a jack plate or raised transom?

It really depends on where your cavitation plate sits in relation to the bottom of your boat. If its within an inch or so I wouldn't worry about it. However, if its more than an inch i'd adjust it to sit even with the bottom of the boat.

In my case, the cavitation plate on my suzuki sat 6" lower than the bottom of the boat. This created lots of drag and poor overall performance. Raising the motor gave it a better hole shot, less drag, and improved/smoothed out top end performance.

Hope this info helps. Let us know if you have more questions.
 
ndthwacker said:
Mini cuda i was wondering do you adjust you jackplate much or once you found your spot do you leve it there, cuz i been debating between making a manual or buying a hydrolic one.

I had to move it around a few times at first to find the right spot. Still playing with it I think I can go up one more hole. Once I find the right spot I will leave it alone. I plan on adding hydraulic tilt as soon as I can scavenge the right size cylinder for free but that will be for trim mostly.
 
you guys have some great setups, real clean too. i hope when im done itll be half as nice as your's. thanks for all the help and the photos gave me a great idea where to start, one other thing tho, is there a specific place that i can find those angles supports that go from the floor to the transom and the transom extensions you guys are using. after that its time to start measuring and playing with it! im excited to get my first boat running in the water! and again thanks everyone
 
minicuda said:
here is mine. I made it from 2 pieces of plywood laminated together with carbon fiber sealed with the same and aluminum angle. I think it cost me around 20 bucks.

minicuda,
did you make that transom jack?
I like that it's adjustable to find the sweet spot.
-jasper
 
jasper60103 said:
minicuda said:
here is mine. I made it from 2 pieces of plywood laminated together with carbon fiber sealed with the same and aluminum angle. I think it cost me around 20 bucks.

minicuda,
did you make that transom jack?
I like that it's adjustable to find the sweet spot.
-jasper
yeah I did make it. I got the idea from dilons racing page they used to have free jack plate plans but they charge 5 bucks now.
 
I made a new wood transom from 5/4" (five quarter) White Oak to replace the rotten original white oak. Plus I made a small piece for outside the transom to replace the rotten plywood.
The top of the oak is routed and it follows the contour of the aluminum top plate of the transom. It actaully goes up under that lip of the transom. 100% hand crafted.

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